Gas/electric water heater switchover?

On ours, we have a switch on the water heater and a switch inside the RV that must be flipped for electric. We have a separate switch for gas.

Thanks, Old-Biscuit!! :-) (And everyone else who has answered questions and offered suggestions!)

Deb

BB_TX wrote:
We always run ours on both gas and electric at the same time. Electric keeps water hot and keeps the somewhat noisy propane from cycling on/off at night.
Under high demand (showers, clothes washer) gas kicks in to boost recovery rate.

When we're in a CG, I'll use electric only when doing dishes, hand/face washing, but will turn the gas side on a few minutes before a shower. Only issue I've got is last time I tried this, the durn rocker switch on the electric side froze up and I can't move it. :-(

Lyle

Deb and Ed M wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

OK you have an Atwood.....
There is only one set of t-stats for the electric and propane
And no manual reset either.

The 'fault' light will come on the same.
If on electric or propane and ECO opens (cause normal has failed and it has overheated to 180*F) and on propane if it fails to light/prove main flame.

Not only are some things different between the brands but can be different between models of same brand...:B

Does it self-reset like my home furnace, then?? Just let it sit until it cools down, then try again?

Also, (since you clearly understand these things!) - I don't have an anode..... but somewhere way in the back of my mind, I think I remember that some heaters have anodes and some don't?

Yes..if the ECO on your Atwood WH has opened it will reset when the temp cools down.
Thing is IF the ECO has opened WHY....that means the normal t-stat failed to open (140*F) and WH continued to heat until ECO opened.
Find out WHY normal failed. Could be bad t-stat or t-stat is not tight against tank wall. Cheap to replace.....both come together on card with new foam cover for about $18

Atwoods don't use an anode rod as they use an aluminum alloy tank
Suburbans do to protect the porcelain lined steel tank

Old-Biscuit wrote:

OK you have an Atwood.....
There is only one set of t-stats for the electric and propane
And no manual reset either.

The 'fault' light will come on the same.
If on electric or propane and ECO opens (cause normal has failed and it has overheated to 180*F) and on propane if it fails to light/prove main flame.

Not only are some things different between the brands but can be different between models of same brand...:B

Does it self-reset like my home furnace, then?? Just let it sit until it cools down, then try again?

Also, (since you clearly understand these things!) - I don't have an anode..... but somewhere way in the back of my mind, I think I remember that some heaters have anodes and some don't?

Deb and Ed M wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Suburban WH?

One ON/OFF switch with light on panel inside?

IF yes........
The On/Off with light is for propane operation
The On/Off Rocker switch located in outside compartment is for 110V AC electric heat element.

If light stays on...'fault' has occurred
If on propane either the man flame failed to light/main flame didn't prove lit OR ECO (high temp t-stat) has operated (opened)
If on electric.....ECO has operated (opened)
ECO has reset..push on rubber button cover to reset 110V t-stats on left, 12vDC for propane on right.

Oooh - thanks for that bit on the resets! Always good to know!

OK you have an Atwood.....
There is only one set of t-stats for the electric and propane
And no manual reset either.

The 'fault' light will come on the same.
If on electric or propane and ECO opens (cause normal has failed and it has overheated to 180*F) and on propane if it fails to light/prove main flame.

Not only are some things different between the brands but can be different between models of same brand...:B

We always run ours on both gas and electric at the same time. Electric keeps water hot and keeps the somewhat noisy propane from cycling on/off at night.
Under high demand (showers, clothes washer) gas kicks in to boost recovery rate.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Suburban WH?

One ON/OFF switch with light on panel inside?

IF yes........
The On/Off with light is for propane operation
The On/Off Rocker switch located in outside compartment is for 110V AC electric heat element.

If light stays on...'fault' has occurred
If on propane either the man flame failed to light/main flame didn't prove lit OR ECO (high temp t-stat) has operated (opened)
If on electric.....ECO has operated (opened)
ECO has reset..push on rubber button cover to reset 110V t-stats on left, 12vDC for propane on right.

Well most of the time our last trailer the light went out when the propane was working properly & came on if there was a problem. This trailer a 2013 the light does not go out unless there is a problem. Do wish there were all standard. (Same water heater brands & same trailer makes.)

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Suburban WH?

One ON/OFF switch with light on panel inside?

IF yes........
The On/Off with light is for propane operation
The On/Off Rocker switch located in outside compartment is for 110V AC electric heat element.

If light stays on...'fault' has occurred
If on propane either the man flame failed to light/main flame didn't prove lit OR ECO (high temp t-stat) has operated (opened)
If on electric.....ECO has operated (opened)
ECO has reset..push on rubber button cover to reset 110V t-stats on left, 12vDC for propane on right.

Oooh - thanks for that bit on the resets! Always good to know!

LOL!! After Shadoow's reply, I could see that - like so many other things with RV's - nothing is "standard". sigh. So I drove through the snowstorm to our work where the 5er is parked.

There are no switches behind the outside panel. Reading the Attwood manual says to turn on the electric heater element, to flip the switch located at the back of the heater to "on". Now, in MY case, the back of the heater is easily accessed by a kitchen cabinet door under the refrigerator. I can see how this would be re-routed if you can't get to the back of the heater.

It would make sense that the "red" (looks black until it's illuminated when it's "ON") button just under the kitchen countertop at the sink turns on the gas/starts the electronic ignition process. My friend's Bounder has a similar button in a similar spot (which is STUPID because little kids can reach that!). In our Class C with a gas-only heater, it's located on the "levels" panel.

Thanks, everyone!