Got to lift the fiver

I did it on my rushmore had a spring shop put in a 2 inch block to level up. works good

A couple things come to mind Dave;
1. From your signature photo, I can see that the tail of the 5er is much closer to the ground than if it were level. Could cause a drag going over drive entrances, and such I suppose.
2. On level ground, the 5er is not level. All other things considered, a leveled 5er is instantly usable without need to unhook to level.
3. I've seen the bed rails of a few trucks damaged from a 5er that was low. In fact, that's why my buddy and I lifted his.

What is driving you to feel you need to raise the trailer? My trailer sits a couple inches nose high. I was told it wasn’t a big deal. Is it?

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
Lifting the trailer will add a lot of lateral stress to its frame. Weld in a substantial X member between the rear axle shackle hangers to negate those forces.
Its the 'wag the dog' flexing effect as well as fatigue in your frame that could lead to frame failure of the spring hangers breaking away from the frame.

This is exactly right. I ended up with a poor handling trailer and some cracks in the frame where various items were welded to it. Had a welder weld in 3 - 2"x3" boxed steel between the sping hangers with 2" square tubing welded from them up on angles to the frame with fishplates, and weld up the cracks in the frame. Problem solved and the trailer handles like night and day.

Common problem with new trucks and older trailers. Good thing you bought the dually, SRW sits higher yet. There have been some excellent posts on this forum the last couple of years with pictures showing solutions. Make sure you have enough headroom so you don't get too tall.

htss wrote:
How much lift do you need? You could put on something like Lippert's Correct Track and get a couple inches of lift. I put on the Morryde SRE4000 and got about an inch of lift.

The Lippert Correct Track will give you 2" of lift, I added it to the TT so I could fit LT tires.

Wills6.4 Hemi wrote:
Well with the new Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4 the fiver has to be lifted. the springs are on top of axle already. Found a company that makes blocks to lift it more. Bigger tires are not an option as they will not clear unless fiver is lifted. Anybody else had to resort to this?

Lifting this way puts more side stress on the hangers. Also the main frame rails can twist, so cross bracing is important. Finally any added side stress added with normal stress at the three hangers increases the risk of main frame cracking. For all these reasons a fully boxed subframe is the better solution as has been recommended. Just depends on your risk tolerance.

How much lift do you need? You could put on something like Lippert's Correct Track and get a couple inches of lift. I put on the Morryde SRE4000 and got about an inch of lift.

Lifting the trailer will add a lot of lateral stress to its frame. Weld in a substantial X member between the rear axle shackle hangers to negate those forces.
Its the 'wag the dog' flexing effect as well as fatigue in your frame that could lead to frame failure of the spring hangers breaking away from the frame.

I wouldn't use spacer blocks. I'd build a subframe as they said.