Help finding the right "horse"

New here. Quick intro and the situation. Please bare with me. I'm also venting :)
I've done plenty of tent and travel trailer camping growing up. Looking to do some with the kids. We have a couple state parks scheduled and some general camp grounds.

We were originally looking for a burb or pickup and hadn't found one that fit the bill.

While our truck search continued (gas or diesel.. long bed or short, burb or pickup...etc)... we bought the wagon.

We bought a 1997 Damon Challenger 30RK 5th wheel for what we thought was a great price. It does need a deep clean but everything is functional and at most worn from being a 1997. Nothing is damaged beyond light repairs or good cleaning.

New to any mobile living quarters. The people we bought the trailer from were nice enough to leave it on the property for now and work with us to have one of their friends move it to our house.

Now... we need to find something capable of moving and stopping this thing. The tag on the trailer says Gross is 12K.

Requirements for truck
Price- $16,800 (driving off the lot) Ideally under $14K
Mileage- Depends if you ask me or my other half. I'm OK staying under 250,000 miles MAX (on diesel) depending on documented work history. She wants around 100,000 miles no matter what.
Engine- I would prefer diesel. I'm not sure I would be OK with higher mileage gasser.
Other- 4x4, Crew Cab, front bench a plus. Other things like heated leather, sunroof...nice to have but obviously not required at this price point.
Bed- No hard preference. Read the LB is recommended due to not needing a slider hitch and having larger fuel tank. I do like the LB and would get one if in our budget

Our problem.. The two of us can't agree on mileage:price ratio. We don't have a preference to any of the big three (Dodge, Ford, GM). If we had to make a choice, me-Dodge or GM, her Dodge. Overall, just want something reliable and able to comfortably do the job.

FORD
I've heard and read a lot of the horror stories with the early ford 6.0's. I'm OK with getting one that comes with a warranty and/or has documented work record of being "fixed". These are also the ones in our price range for Ford and around 100-150k miles.

GM
I know the earler GMs (01-04.5) were a pita with injectors being under the valve cover. I haven't really read/heard anything else with these years. 04.5-06 were to look for LLY or LBZ diesels but overall can't really go wrong. I've found a few LLY and non in our budget but with 180-225K miles. NO GO for her.

DODGE
Seems to just be out of budget, period. If they are in budget they are over 300K miles or do not meet one or more of the other requirements.

Is there anything that can be offered in the way of what would be best for towing this camper safely that may set aside the mileage debate?

And on the mileage debate (may be better in a different topic), what are your thoughts on purchasing used higher mileage vehicles? Gas vs diesel at this weight?

Sorry for such along first post. Hope it all makes sense and that I covered everything.

We are suppose to go look at atleast 2 trucks
2004 Ford F250 SD Lariat SB $13995 6.0L 5SpdAuto 111000miles Loaded W/leather bench (also has listed an available warranty for drivetrain including heads)

2004 Ford F250 Lariat SB $13995 6.0 5spdAuto 101000miles Loaded w/leather (has listed that "bulletproof" work was completed)

I did find an 01 2500HD with Dmax SLE for $12995 but has 221K miles...

Thanks,
Jesse

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Nov 19, 2015
I am not calling transfer flow, as of 1 minute ago their home page states that they market aux tanks for gas.

My aux has a sticker on the side of it that states, Recommended for Gasoline.

The tank has no bottom drain or plugs that would permit install of gravity flow. The pick up is via the dip tube on top. In line is a fuel pump and a 12 volt normally closed veton fuel valve. I have installed a gauge for the aux.

So to transfer fuel I flip one switch and the valve opens and pump comes on and the transfer is on.

I challenge anyone to come up with some type of whatever that prohibits the use of a system as I described. No grey area for me.
laknox
Nomad
Nov 19, 2015
Dave H M wrote:
djgarcia wrote:
Just another opinion,
1. Dodge-diesel
2. 3/4 ton
3. I would rethink using the criteria of "miles per gallon" as your primary concern. For me, the cost or mpg of rving is not a concern. Rving has some basic costs that can't really be regulated. If I worry about the cost of fuel then I stay home until I have sufficient $$$ to make the trip. Yes I do try to get the best price for my diesel:)
4. After you select your truck, really consider replacing your stock fuel tank with a larger auxiliary diesel fuel tank to give you greater degree of choices on where to buy the best diesel price. Auxiliary fuel tanks are not available for Gas engines. I have a 60 gal. tank:)

Would you please expand on your comment on aux gas tanks? If installed and plumbed properly, i don't think you will be able to come up with documentation concerning them not being available and/or being used.

The biggest issue is with gravity-fed aux tanks. TransferFlow has a whole page of stuff about this, including some regulation citations. It =is= a grey area all across the board, but it seems to vary state-to-state, with some states virtually banning any gravity-flow aux tanks, even though on a Fed level, it =may= be legal. Moot point if you have a separate "nurse" tank, with a pump and delivery handle, but that's not what most of us look for with an aux tank; we just want to flip a switch and fuel on the fly, when possible.

Lyle
laknox
Nomad
Nov 19, 2015
Outlaw85, as the others have said, you're going to have a tough time finding something decent at that price point. If you don't plan on taking a lot of trips, especially if you stay in the Midwest, a gasser is fine. You just need to know how to drive a gas engine effectively to get the best out of it. Don't plan on much speed on the hills and make d@mn sure your brakes are good all-around, since you'll have less engine braking than a diesel. You'll also want a 350/3500 series truck. I couldn't find the weight specs on the Damon, but I suspect it's pretty heavy and probably too heavy for the age 250/2500 that you'd be looking at. An SRW would likely handle it just fine, though a dually might be easier to find. Look for trucks from down here in the SW, as they're much less likely to have cancer like ones from snow country. If you =can= find a diesel, you'll certainly like it for towing, but fuel costs for daily driving will be higher, so take that into consideration. This being said, if you do plan on frequent trips or =long= trips, the diesel will be the better choice, IMO, simply because it will handle the towing better. I love my Duramax and won't have another gasser as long as I'm RVing, but that's just me. :-)

Lyle
MarkTwain
Explorer
Nov 19, 2015
Dave H M wrote:
djgarcia wrote:
Just another opinion,
1. Dodge-diesel
2. 3/4 ton
3. I would rethink using the criteria of "miles per gallon" as your primary concern. For me, the cost or mpg of rving is not a concern. Rving has some basic costs that can't really be regulated. If I worry about the cost of fuel then I stay home until I have sufficient $$$ to make the trip. Yes I do try to get the best price for my diesel:)
4. After you select your truck, really consider replacing your stock fuel tank with a larger auxiliary diesel fuel tank to give you greater degree of choices on where to buy the best diesel price. Auxiliary fuel tanks are not available for Gas engines. I have a 60 gal. tank:)

Would you please expand on your comment on aux gas tanks? If installed and plumbed properly, i don't think you will be able to come up with documentation concerning them not being available and/or being used.

Call Transfer Flow in Chico Calif. 530-893-5209. Call Titan Fuel Tanks 800-728-4982. They make diesel fuel tanks that replace the original fuel tank.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Nov 19, 2015
djgarcia wrote:
Just another opinion,
1. Dodge-diesel
2. 3/4 ton
3. I would rethink using the criteria of "miles per gallon" as your primary concern. For me, the cost or mpg of rving is not a concern. Rving has some basic costs that can't really be regulated. If I worry about the cost of fuel then I stay home until I have sufficient $$$ to make the trip. Yes I do try to get the best price for my diesel:)
4. After you select your truck, really consider replacing your stock fuel tank with a larger auxiliary diesel fuel tank to give you greater degree of choices on where to buy the best diesel price. Auxiliary fuel tanks are not available for Gas engines. I have a 60 gal. tank:)

Would you please expand on your comment on aux gas tanks? If installed and plumbed properly, i don't think you will be able to come up with documentation concerning them not being available and/or being used.
noteven
Explorer III
Nov 19, 2015
Everyone knows 90% of the "weight limits" on 250/350 class pickup trucks are to do with goofy registration, parking, fuel tax and licensing money grabs based on 1950's commercial vehicles by guvvermints, right?

I agree with what Old Biscuit and rhagfo said ^^
valhalla360
Navigator
Nov 19, 2015
I would be pushing down at least close to 100k miles regardless of engine. Either type should still have a good 100k miles left in them. The days of diesels lasting much longe are gone. More importantly by 250k miles, the rest of the truck is going to be worn out. That's why we sold our 1992. We were up around 220k miles and the engine was still humming along fine but the rest of the truck was falling apart.

If you can find a single rear wheel 1 ton long bed, that would be my recommendation. A 3/4 ton may be within weight limits but you are likely pushing close to the limits. Since you know the exact trailer, no excuse for towing over the limits. Buy one that can handle the trailer. (pin wieght is the big limiting factor)

For $15k, you should be able to find plenty of nice trucks at around the 8-10yr mark (we bought a 2001 a couple years back for $6k with 100k miles. It's gas but there were diesel trucks in similar condition/milage available.)
outlaw85
Explorer
Nov 19, 2015
That looks really nice rhagfo!

I guess I was smart for a day and saved the CL ad. Here is the only pic of a reasonable size at the moment. You are correct in that it is a squared off nose. I guess I will have to sell the long bed or just keep my eyes closed for any turning with a SB. C'mon long bed!

I tried extending my searches to include gassers too. There is a lot in the 2500/250. Now to find one with the options to make the wife look the other way >:). I have also changed my search to be 2005 and up.

As far as ratings you are talking about rhagfo. I'm OK doing a setup like you are as far as staying within some sort of limits. Also, if I can get lucky. change the odometer to something lower that she won't worry about :)
MarkTwain
Explorer
Nov 19, 2015
Contact "Transfer Flow" company in Chico, Calif. for the best auxiliary fuel tanks. They also install.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Nov 19, 2015
Old-Biscuit wrote:
12K GVWR 5vr can be easily, safely towed by 250/2500 truck 2002 and newer vintage

Well the post above from Golden _HVAC is correct if you require that you stay within the GVWR of the TV.

That said I agree with Old-Biscuit, and you need to make the decision to tow over GVWR, BUT within GRAWR.

I believe I did well on the purchase of my TV, 2001 Ram 2500 bought in 2011 with 234,000 miles! Yes a good number of miles, but one owner Ram Cummins SLT Larine about the only options not on it were alarm and leather. Tow and Camper package. It only has a 8,800# GVWR, and connected to our 32' 12,360# 5er we are right at 10,000# on the TV, about 19,500# GCVW. We do this without air bags or Timbres, 2,200# pin. We still have about 500# + of unused capacity on the 6,084# GRAWR, that is based on stock tires, if we wanted to push the rating the Camper package tires have a 6,830# capacity for the pair, just call it a safety margin.

This rig tows like a dream, good shocks, strong suspension, put some time and $ into the front end, but tows nice and straight, and handles great.

We are currently at 288,000 miles and still going strong, I was a Ford addict for 42 years, but when it came to buying a diesel the engine was far more important than the wrapper, I had strong faith in the Cummins diesel. we added a small chip for about 50 Hp and 140 ft. lb. and we have no issues with hills towing 11,000#+ of 5er.

On EDIT: Think twice about a SB! That 97 5er is likely a square nose, long beds have zero issues to about 92 degrees of turn, daily drive that High Mileage diesel, you will find towing much easier, and at 13 to 15 mpg in the city, and pushing 20 on the highway, why not.

In 54,000 miles of driving maintenance on the engine has been;
5 oil changes, now at 10,000 miles.
1 oil pressure sending unit
1 New NAPA Starter, replaced once under warranty
1 Fass DDRP-2 lift pump, preventive maintenance better fuel pressure

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