Hitch choice

dryfly wrote:
Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?

High hitching is very visible, there would be a gap between the top surface of the hitch ,and the bottom of the pin box, the two would not be mated.

I think yes, there is no way you could drop a fifth wheel the way you are asking, but thats a loaded question you asked. All those things have to be done EVERY time, if not then we get right back to IMO a pull test is FOOLPROOF.

Basically what some are saying is they never forget to do all those things, you know what they say about never .

Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?

dryfly wrote:

Big1 wrote:

MFL wrote:

bobbyg123 wrote:
Well, we settled on a B&W Patriot 16,000 non-slider.

Good price, good reviews. Having never used a 5th wheel hitch before, I have no idea how good it is, but it seems to have a good reputation. I'll be pulling a 5th wheel with GVWR under 10,500lbs.

Thanks.

Congrats on your new Patriot!! IMO, from actual use, the best rail hitch available for the dollars spent. You will be very happy with that hitch!!

Jerry

Congrats! It's a good hitch for sure this is the one I have.

In this photo I can see the jaws are definitely around the pin, and the pin box is flat on the hitch head. It's very obvious!

Please....I don't want to create controversy, but I'm curious about the term "high hitch". I assume that's when the flange on the bottom of the pin is set down on the top of the jaws of the hitch.

If that's the case, couldn't that situation be detected by a visual inspection of the jaws? I've been pulling a 5th wheel for years and I've never had that occur once. Seems like one would immediately see space between the pin box and the hitch head. And if it's determined that the pin is correctly in the jaws and is locked in place, I would thank that would minimize the need for a pull test.

Again, I've seen the need for a pull test argued many times on this forum, and I'm not trying to incite that. Just trying to find the way(s) that dropping the trailer is possible.

IMO we are a bit hung up on this visual thing. Is there a hitch out there that you can't visually see if the jaws ,bar whatever are closed ??? I can certainly see mine on my Reese hitch.

If you visually see the jaws closed around the pin on the B&W is there also a locking pin or whatever to lock to insure the jaws stay closed ?? My Reese the handle closes, and then there is a pin to insert to lock the handle. I can look at those jaws all day long ,and make sure they are closed, but I am pretty sure if that locking pin is not inserted bad things are going to happen.

My point is we get right back to the pull test. IMO it is "FOOLPROOF" . Apparently its in the B&W manual, that sure has to tell you something. One mentioned something about a Reese Hitch coming undone even after a pull test, thats a new one ,and he did not elaborate , was asked to do so, but like a lot of things on here they just get said without much to back it up .

Probably the only real foolproof way to keep someone from dropping the fifth wheel on their bed was the Blue OX bedsavers they used to sell, but pretty sure they are not available any more. Also there was the Butch device, but you had to make sure that is was closed, or it was useless, those I don't think are for sale anymore.

^^^^^^ OMG another person that has should I say it???? "COMMON SENSE"

Its MUCH easier to "High Hitch the other brands that have thin 1/2" jaws since the plates would be 1/2" closer together compared to a 1" thick jaw B&W.

With a "B&W" it's impossible to drop the RV "IF" the hitch and pinbox plates are touching, the latching handle is closed and locked and the jaws are fully closed around the kingpin. These only require a "VISUAL" test.

I am NOT telling anyone what to do, I am letting people know with open minds and have common sense what they can do.

Mechanical failure is the only way a dropped RV can happen with the B&W using the above method. I am willing to take that chance.

Big1 wrote:

MFL wrote:

bobbyg123 wrote:
Well, we settled on a B&W Patriot 16,000 non-slider.

Good price, good reviews. Having never used a 5th wheel hitch before, I have no idea how good it is, but it seems to have a good reputation. I'll be pulling a 5th wheel with GVWR under 10,500lbs.

Thanks.

Congrats on your new Patriot!! IMO, from actual use, the best rail hitch available for the dollars spent. You will be very happy with that hitch!!

Jerry

Congrats! It's a good hitch for sure this is the one I have.

In this photo I can see the jaws are definitely around the pin, and the pin box is flat on the hitch head. It's very obvious!

Please....I don't want to create controversy, but I'm curious about the term "high hitch". I assume that's when the flange on the bottom of the pin is set down on the top of the jaws of the hitch.

If that's the case, couldn't that situation be detected by a visual inspection of the jaws? I've been pulling a 5th wheel for years and I've never had that occur once. Seems like one would immediately see space between the pin box and the hitch head. And if it's determined that the pin is correctly in the jaws and is locked in place, I would thank that would minimize the need for a pull test.

Again, I've seen the need for a pull test argued many times on this forum, and I'm not trying to incite that. Just trying to find the way(s) that dropping the trailer is possible.

"I justified the cost of my TS3 after just 30 minutes towing with a B&W Patriot which was a nightmare."

PLEASE tell what was creating a "nightmare" for you with the Patriot?

I justified the cost of my TS3 after just 30 minutes towing with a B&W Patriot which was a nightmare. I'm in the camp of recommending an air hitch to any newbie, especially those with new trucks and trailers.

pcm1959 wrote:

handsome51 wrote:

You said long bed so I have to assume you have a real truck with a 8ft bed. That is what I call a long bed. Go ahead and do it right the first time and be happy. That is what I did in 2006 when I bought my first 5th wheel. Spend the money and buy either a 25k air safe hitch(25k because it has the Binkley Holland head on it) or a Trailersaver air hitch with a Binkley Holland head.You won't even know the 5th wheel is behind you. And nothing moves in the 5th wheel unless you slam on the brakes. Like my friend told me that said to buy the 25k air safe hitch. He said " I am not telling you it is worth the money, but I like the ride". He pulled a center console boat behind his 5th wheel to the lake. And said one time he forgot and left a soap bottle on the kitchen counter. And when he go back home from the lake it was still sitting their.

I agree 100%.
I'm amused how often B&W hitch owners rave about their hitches. I'm by no means discounting their quality, the design or anything else about B&W. However, there is no comparison between a fixed hitch and a floating hitch like those mentioned above regardless of brand.
I'd never tow a fifth wheel again after having my Hensley Tralersaver air hitch.
Yes, the jaws are robust and have a positive hitch action, too. There just is no comparison between fixed vs floating hitches no matter what brand.
When asking for hitch recommendations you should specify fixed or floating. No comparison and that includes price but worth it to me for the rv pin box.

I've gone through a bunch of hitches- two B&W hitches (I upgraded the Companion), then an Andersen Ultimate, and finally a TrailerSaver TS3. I only switched away from the B&W because my new trailer was 21,000 lbs. and the B&W Companion was only rated to 20,000 lbs in the gooseneck/post configuration which is all I had as an option in the 2012 truck I had.

Of them, the TrailerSaver TS3 gives the best ride. But I find it's hitch head more finicky than the B&W. With the B&W, it didn't matter what my last movement was with the truck (forward or backwards). With the TS3, if I last pulled forward, I have to be intentional about putting the truck in neutral and taking my foot off of the brakes or the hitch head binds up.

I think the B&W is an absolute stunner of a product. For most people, it's hard to justify the $3,000 spend on a new TS3. I think you need to plan on towing a lot to justify the cost.

And the B&W wins, hands-down for ease of removing it from the truck. I've never lifted my TS3, it was placed into my truck bed by forklift and then I hang it from the camper between uses. Which, for me, is a hassle as I bring in all slides and raise my steps if I'm going to raise/lower the landing gear on the camper.

handsome51 wrote:

bobbyg123 wrote:
Hi everyone. I own a 2017 F350 6.2L long bed crew cab, and I’m in the market for my first 5th wheel hitch after 10+ years of bumper pulling.

I’ve heard good things about B&W, but they of course make several different hitch options. What should I be looking for? My new 5th wheel won’t weigh more than 11,000 lbs loaded, and I won’t ever bigger than the set up I just purchased; certainly not with my gas truck.

Thanks.

You said long bed so I have to assume you have a real truck with a 8ft bed. That is what I call a long bed. Go ahead and do it right the first time and be happy. That is what I did in 2006 when I bought my first 5th wheel. Spend the money and buy either a 25k air safe hitch(25k because it has the Binkley Holland head on it) or a Trailersaver air hitch with a Binkley Holland head.You won't even know the 5th wheel is behind you. And nothing moves in the 5th wheel unless you slam on the brakes. Like my friend told me that said to buy the 25k air safe hitch. He said " I am not telling you it is worth the money, but I like the ride". He pulled a center console boat behind his 5th wheel to the lake. And said one time he forgot and left a soap bottle on the kitchen counter. And when he go back home from the lake it was still sitting their.

I agree 100%.
I'm amused how often B&W hitch owners rave about their hitches. I'm by no means discounting their quality, the design or anything else about B&W. However, there is no comparison between a fixed hitch and a floating hitch like those mentioned above regardless of brand.
I'd never tow a fifth wheel again after having my Hensley Tralersaver air hitch.
Yes, the jaws are robust and have a positive hitch action, too. There just is no comparison between fixed vs floating hitches no matter what brand.
When asking for hitch recommendations you should specify fixed or floating. No comparison and that includes price but worth it to me for the rv pin box.

bobbyg123 wrote:
Hi everyone. I own a 2017 F350 6.2L long bed crew cab, and I’m in the market for my first 5th wheel hitch after 10+ years of bumper pulling.

I’ve heard good things about B&W, but they of course make several different hitch options. What should I be looking for? My new 5th wheel won’t weigh more than 11,000 lbs loaded, and I won’t ever bigger than the set up I just purchased; certainly not with my gas truck.

Thanks.

You said long bed so I have to assume you have a real truck with a 8ft bed. That is what I call a long bed. Go ahead and do it right the first time and be happy. That is what I did in 2006 when I bought my first 5th wheel. Spend the money and buy either a 25k air safe hitch(25k because it has the Binkley Holland head on it) or a Trailersaver air hitch with a Binkley Holland head.You won't even know the 5th wheel is behind you. And nothing moves in the 5th wheel unless you slam on the brakes. Like my friend told me that said to buy the 25k air safe hitch. He said " I am not telling you it is worth the money, but I like the ride". He pulled a center console boat behind his 5th wheel to the lake. And said one time he forgot and left a soap bottle on the kitchen counter. And when he go back home from the lake it was still sitting their.