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Njmurvin's avatar
Njmurvin
Explorer
Jul 08, 2020

How much squat can I expect?

I'm looking at a new 2020 Duramax 3500 4x4 (crew, standard box). The bed rails are 59" off the ground (3" taller than my 16 year old Dodge 3500). The bed is also 3" taller than my existing truck at 39".

With my trailer leveled, the bottom of my overhang is at 60" giving only 1 inch of clearance. In order to get the trailer to ride level and give 6" clearance to the bedrails, The truck would need to squat 5". Assuming the pin weight of my trailer is about 2000-2400lbs, is that a reasonable expectation? The payload of the Chevy truck is 4185 lbs. So, I'm guessing it may not squat all that much.

I never really paid attention to how much my Dodge squats under the weight of the trailer because the trailer leveled out pretty well (maybe just a tad nose down) and there was always sufficient rail clearance.

The axles are already flipped on the trailer. So, welding on frame sections as spacers would be my only option for raising the trailer. I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.
  • My DRW does not drop even 1/8" with 6k pin weight.

    Bottom line hook it up with 6" bed clearance and see how it looks!
  • Itakethe5th2011 wrote:
    I purchased a 2020 Chevy 2500HD in May. Had the same problem with the bed rail higher than my old 2500hdHD. I hooked up the 5th wheel with the proper 6" clearance between rail and trailer. I then pulled the trailer up on boards till I found out how much I was going to need to raise my 5th wheel. 3" was needed. My axles are already under leaf springs so I found 3" trailer blocks from a company in Canada called Trailer Blocks. (Trailerblocks.com). Install was pretty easy and my only problem is my step up into tailer is 3" higher, not a real problem.

    This sounds intriguing. A 3" lift should make up for the 3" that the new truck will be over the old one. Are these pretty safe? I thought my only option was going to be a subframe with cross supports.
  • I have also thought about a 2500 instead of the 3500. At 11350 GVWR, it still has over 500 lbs more cargo capacity than my older 3500. Maybe that would be a better match for my trailer. I just don't want a truck that's going to squat TOO much.
  • I used 2" blocks from that same company a few years ago, and had no problems. Their blocks are billet aluminum, and U bolts are forged 9/16 or 5/8".
  • valhalla360 wrote:
    I'm not sure about your specific truck but I recall people talking about replacing the spacers on the 1 ton truck rear springs with the 3/4 ton truck spacers to get a couple inches lower.

    Never did it myself, so not sure if it's people running their mouths or if it's real.


    It's a real thing. Ford even had a service bulletin at one time about it as the F250 looked like they just got rear ended by a snow plow. The truck blocks are available in many thickness's. Raising the 5er may cause issues with height problems if you are already at 13'6". You might end up being the only one pruning the trees on secondary roads.
  • For what its worth, last fall my wife and I had precisely this problem when getting a rig for our Jayco HT% 24.5 CKTS 5th wheel--which is the lightest and smallest fifth wheel Jayco made in 2018 and is advertised as half-ton towable. We initially went with an F150 we'd been promised by both dealers (truck and RV) would be adequate (newbie mistake as we were over on payload and rear axle weights). We then looked at a few new 4x4 3/4 ton trucks. All were way too high. We would have had to pay big money to get the trailer lifted as the axles were already flipped. We found an article on one of the RV forums that said that 2WD F250s averaged 3" lower than the 4x4 F250 (which was way too high). We thought about our realistic needs and, given how we camp, didn't really need 4WD (we will pay for a tow if we ever get stuck) and went with the 2WD. Our 2WD has an electronic locking rear axle and, with all-terrain tires on the back, we figure we will be able to get through most rough spots. We have been very happy with it so far and I think you get a better overall ride with the 2WD. You will find, if you ask on the forum, that 2WD vs. 4WD is like arguing religion - strong opinions on either side. However, w/ 2WD The trailer sits perfectly even with only 1-2" of a squat. Just a thought for you if you don't absolutely need 4x4.
  • I certainly don't need 4x4. In 16 years I have only "needed" it once to get up a gravel uphill driveway. But, the LOW range makes backing and maneuvering the trailer into my driveway for storage a dream. I have to go over a curb and up a small embankment and I can do it almost at idle with no stress and strain on the transmission and torque converter. I would get 4x4 just for that feature alone. The other reasons are that I like the way the truck looks and I like sitting up high - just not THAT high - lol.