How to correct a sagging entry door?

That's why I used the washers. The clips work out as the door is used.

enblethen wrote:
That sounds almost what mine was doing. That is why I used the stainless washers. Hardest part was getting the piano hinge pins to start to come out.

Thanks enblethen. I have resorted to my e clip pattern. I have three 7/32 e clips inserted on all three hinges. The difference is that I put the clips between the hinge and the factory bushing. The door is probably back to the way it was before. It still drags a bit but not unbearable. However, I did notice this morning that one clip was working itself off. Might indicate I haven't found the fix just yet.

Ken

That sounds almost what mine was doing. That is why I used the stainless washers. Hardest part was getting the piano hinge pins to start to come out.

Thanks everyone for your help. But I need to clarify what I mean by sagging. Although I haven't checked the door for being square I don't think it's really "askew". However, I will check it out. What I'm dealing with is more of a straight down sag on the hinges. The soft aluminum on the door jamb is being worn away by the weight of the door. I will need to take pictures to help illustrate the condition. I've had one suggestion to lift the door to remove the slack and add two or three normal hinges. This would place the hinge pin on the outside of the door. But it was thought that the added hinges would carry the weight and are replaceable whereas the jamb side of the door hinge is part of the door jamb and therefore not replaceable. Does any of this help or make since?

Ken

It comes down to vibrations, moisture and gravity. Best thing to do is pull it apart and fix it from "inside" if you want it to last. In my case, I am working with a 1987 variety. If I get another 5 years out of the thing before the other squishy bits take over, I am doing great!

AND, aluminum corner gussets are on the list for this spring.

If the top corner of the door is hitting the frame from sagging you need to shim the bottom of the hinge out and pull the top hinge in tighter. This will push the bottom of the door closer to frame and pull the top of the door away from the frame.

I supported the door with a small hydraulic jack. Then used a small drift to knock the piano hinge pin up enough to get hold of the end with vise grips. I then hit the vise grips to pull the hinge pin up enough to install properly sized stainless steel washers at each point of the hinges. Then tapped hinge pin back down into place. Had to do this on all three hinges and two places in each hinge. I had tried using C clips but when the door rotated they came out.

We had the same problem on our previous TT and did similar to what West Coast did but added aluminum corner braces inside the frame where they could not be seen to keep the door true. This solved our problem as the doors are relatively cheaply manufactured in the area of bracing to keep them square.

Took mine off and dismantled it for the most part. A little PL400, ripped some 1/2's down, a few!! screws. Probably took most of the afternoon and it saved buying a new door.