Looking for our 1st 5ver, many questions....

NorthwestBound wrote:
Can you adjust the pin wt by shifting cargo in the 5th to behind the axles? Sort of like sliding the tandems on a big rig trailer?

Some, but then you can run into the issue of overloading the rear axle. The equalizer only "equalizes" so much. Not saying you =will=, just that you =can=. People who do detailed weights on their rigs are almost always surprised at how different front/rear axles can be as well as side/side. Some have reported several hundred lbs difference between right and left weights, which is an issue that the mfr should have addressed in the design phase, IMO.

Lyle

Can you adjust the pin wt by shifting cargo in the 5th to behind the axles? Sort of like sliding the tandems on a big rig trailer?

I crawled all under this truck before i bought it, and i noticed it did have what appears to be a helper spring besides the standard spring pack which probably explains the harsh ride unloaded. Ill try to get a pic when go by it today.

Most LT E have a 2 ply poly fabric carcass with 2 steel belts under the tread and maybe a fabric overlay.
Tires like the commercial grade 16" Bridgestone R250 and the Michelin XPS Rib have a one ply all steel carcass with two steel belts under the tread.

I drive a big truck for a living so got that covered, and, when i registered the puckup i also splurged for the 24klb plates.

Then you understand about not exceeding the trucks steer/drive axles and trailer axle and any registered weight number your state requires.

The truck makers door tag GVWR isn't used for a over loaded vehicle. Same with a GCWR which you won't find it plated on the truck as the feds don't require it to be. Some folks use them ...others do not.

I have a '03 2500 Dodge/Cummins quad cab short bed 6000 RAWR. This truck also has a scaled 2860 lb rear axle weight which leaves me with a 3140 lb payload.
Dodge has used the same AAM 11.5" axle in the 2500/3500 SRW and DRW trucks since '03. This axle is rated around 11000 lb from AAM.
The difference in rear suspension is the 3500 SRW has a aux overload spring pack which the 2500 doesn't have and maybe higher rated wheels and tires. Some 2500 trucks come with the same wheels and tires (option) as a 3500 SRW truck as mine did.

The trailer may have a 13xxx GVWR but that doesn't mean it will weigh that much. It all depends on how much CCC the mfg gave it and its dry weight. Even at max GVWR means a 2600-2700 lb pin weight.
The truck won't have any problems pulling this size trailer nor will the truck have any problems carrying a 2500 lb pin weight plus other weight added to the truck.

Careful on focusing on the old ply issue.

LR E's are either 2 or 4 ply sidewall. Too lazy to go out and look this am and have CRS.

RustyJC wrote:

NorthwestBound wrote:
New to the forums. So we got a good deal on a diesel 07 Ram 2500 and now we are tring to decide on the rest of the rig.

Is the truck an early or late 07? The early 07s used the 5.9 Cummins and 48RE 4 speed automatic transmission, while the later 07s (built after 1/1/07) used the 6.7 Cummins and 68RFE 6 speed automatic transmission - these are commonly called the 2007.5 trucks. The 68RFE is much more suited for towing heavier 5th wheels than the 48RE.

Rusty

Mfg date is 7-06 on the tag and has the 5.9 ctd

Alot of good info, makes alot more sense now. I can see now i should have bought more truck, if not for just the piece of mind alone. I do care about safety, even in my big rig i obsess about weight.

Ill have to consider a smaller rig. In the meantime, i need new tires on the truck. I know the load rating i need is E but how many ply would be sufficient? Door tag says 265x70x17E

Also, my truck came equipped with a brake controller, how can i test that it works without having a trailer, and, is it wired thru the 5th wheel pigtail connector or is there a seperate connector for brakes?

Thanks folks for all the help!

It is great that you are concerned and focusing on your truck limits when deciding on a 5er to pull. A lot of RVers out there have exceeded their truck's GVWR and do not care.
Two more suggestions that you should think about:
1) Note the GVWR & CCC of your 5er as well. Most 5ers are a little short on CCC (added water & personal "stuff" weight capacity). This is very important especially if you are full timing. Also important if you are planning to add a generator and/or solar.
2) If you buy a new 5er, be sure to weigh it before you buy as the factory certified shipping weight is not always correct (personally experienced 1400# difference which resulted in me returning the RV for full refund - "breach of contract") I just could not full time with my CCC reduced by 1400#.
My personal rule of thumb for CCC is 1500-2000# for full time and additional 500-1000# if adding generator and/or solar. (I have seen 5ers with CCC as low as 500-800#. Later...

NorthwestBound wrote:
New to the forums. So we got a good deal on a diesel 07 Ram 2500 and now we are tring to decide on the rest of the rig.

Is the truck an early or late 07? The early 07s used the 5.9 Cummins and 48RE 4 speed automatic transmission, while the later 07s (built after 1/1/07) used the 6.7 Cummins and 68RFE 6 speed automatic transmission - these are commonly called the 2007.5 trucks. The 68RFE is much more suited for towing heavier 5th wheels than the 48RE.

Rusty

Don't forget to check the truck's tire capacity along with the RAWR. On my '02 D'max, the OEM 245 tires are a few hundred below the RAWR. By changing to 265's, I'm about 700 =over= the RAWR, IIRC. I'll take that any day and not worry about the axle.

Lyle