SRW vs DRW

4x4ord wrote:
Here is some real numbers for a 2017 F350 SRW.
GRAWR...... 7230 lbs.
Unladen rear axle... 3470 lbs
Unladen front axle... 4850 lbs
GVWR.... 11500

According to these weights and based on a 20% pin weight my truck can tow:

Based of GVWR:
Pin weight can be 3180 lbs
So Gross trailer could be
15900 lbs based on a 20% pin.

Based off GRAWR:
Pin weight could be... 3760
Gross trailer weight could be
18800 lbs.

Did you have the hitch, full tank and occupants in the calculation? I'm assuming so.

Dan

Me Again wrote:

MFL wrote:
FWIW, his 2011 had the 3.42, and like Gary mentioned, not much sense trading a late model 2500, for a SRW 3500. Now if making the choice, for towing a FW, between purchasing 2500 or 3500, most of us would choose the 3500. IMO, best to get a DRW if GVW of FW is 15K or more.

Jerry

RAM and I think FORD rates the 3500/350 SRW higher than 15K, I tow a 16K 5th will just fine with mine. If I was to tow the max 17,050 trailer, then I would have to remove a lot of stuff I carried in bed boxes to stay below 7K RGAWR.

Yes Chris, many are towing over 15K with their SRW trucks, and I think Ford or Ram can handle 16K FWs in many cases. One FW with actual gross wt of say 15,500-16K, could have a much higher pin wt, depending on floor plan, which may limit what can be added to the truck bed, basement, or maybe even walk-in front closet.

IIRC, you are running pretty close on your rear axle with your set up. You have some nice boxes added, and others may want to add extended fuel tanks as well. So when I suggested best to consider DRW, when GW of trailer is more than 15K, it would remove most worries of additional bed wt, or higher than normal pin wt.

Jerry

laknox wrote:

klr650goldwing wrote:
Thanks everyone. There is a wealth of information here. I checked the weight tag on my truck and found the following information: GVWR 9900, FRONT GAWR 5200, REAR GAWR 6830. I don't know how to calculate total towing capacity from those numbers. I bought this truck new. When new it had 3.73 differential gearing. I had those gears changed to 4.56. That increased the towing capacity of the truck, but I don't remember how the truck shop calculated those numbers. Can anyone determine the maximum weight 5er this truck can tow?

It's not what you can TOW, it's what you can CARRY, i.e. PAYLOAD, that's the critical number. Sure, you can tow more, but you can't CARRY any more than you could when that truck rolled off the line. First thing you need to do is to load up your truck as if you were going camping. You, passenger(s), hitch, full fuel and "stuff", then hit the scales to see what your truck weighs. Subtract that from the 9900 lb GVW from your placard. THAT is the PAYLOAD capacity that you have left to CARRY the pin of a FW (or GN). If you =really= want good #'s, then take the FW with you to the scales and weigh =all= axles, steer, driver and trailer, both with and without the FW hitched up. Do it ready to camp to get =real= #'s.

Lyle

Lyle, you missed a very important item. That is weighing the individual axles. Pin weight goes almost 100 % on the trucks real axle.

One wants to get that rear axle weight and subtract it from the RGAWR. That number will tell you how much pin weight the truck can handle. Once hooked up a person should return to the scale and get three readings, Front and rear TV weights and the trailer axle weights. Add all three together to and compare that to the trucks combine weight rating.

Compare the TV rear axle weight to trucks RGAWR and assure the tires weight ratings add up to or exceed the RGAWR. Add the two TV axle weights and if you are in a state that licenses tonnage assure that you have purchase enough for the weight the truck is carrying.

klr650goldwing wrote:
Thanks everyone. There is a wealth of information here. I checked the weight tag on my truck and found the following information: GVWR 9900, FRONT GAWR 5200, REAR GAWR 6830. I don't know how to calculate total towing capacity from those numbers. I bought this truck new. When new it had 3.73 differential gearing. I had those gears changed to 4.56. That increased the towing capacity of the truck, but I don't remember how the truck shop calculated those numbers. Can anyone determine the maximum weight 5er this truck can tow?

It's not what you can TOW, it's what you can CARRY, i.e. PAYLOAD, that's the critical number. Sure, you can tow more, but you can't CARRY any more than you could when that truck rolled off the line. First thing you need to do is to load up your truck as if you were going camping. You, passenger(s), hitch, full fuel and "stuff", then hit the scales to see what your truck weighs. Subtract that from the 9900 lb GVW from your placard. THAT is the PAYLOAD capacity that you have left to CARRY the pin of a FW (or GN). If you =really= want good #'s, then take the FW with you to the scales and weigh =all= axles, steer, driver and trailer, both with and without the FW hitched up. Do it ready to camp to get =real= #'s.

Lyle

MFL wrote:
FWIW, his 2011 had the 3.42, and like Gary mentioned, not much sense trading a late model 2500, for a SRW 3500. Now if making the choice, for towing a FW, between purchasing 2500 or 3500, most of us would choose the 3500. IMO, best to get a DRW if GVW of FW is 15K or more.

Jerry

RAM and I think FORD rates the 3500/350 SRW higher than 15K, I tow a 16K 5th will just fine with mine. If I was to tow the max 17,050 trailer, then I would have to remove a lot of stuff I carried in bed boxes to stay below 7K RGAWR.

Another consideration. Do you play in the mud, or rocky roads with your tow vehicle? IMO, singles are better in the mud,and avoid the sidewall cuts of rocks between the duals. I also want to stay below 22 feet on the TV, for some roads such as Turroweep. Just below 20 as I have now is even better for turning around, and saves money on the ferry to Newfoundland. My 5er is within all the numbers by the Cat scale, and I will not give in to bigger-itis!!!

Here is some real numbers for a 2017 F350 SRW.
GRAWR...... 7230 lbs.
Unladen rear axle... 3470 lbs
Unladen front axle... 4850 lbs
GVWR.... 11500

According to these weights and based on a 20% pin weight my truck can tow:

Based of GVWR:
Pin weight can be 3180 lbs
So Gross trailer could be
15900 lbs based on a 20% pin.

Based off GRAWR:
Pin weight could be... 3760
Gross trailer weight could be
18800 lbs.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
Yes, the general rule is to pull the ratings for the truck. If you are within the rating...it's good.

NOT really, I can tow 30k or so but in a two axle 5er with 25% pin no way and stay at or under 9,750# RAWR! I look more at what the RAWR is.

Clarification: When I said "pull" I meant as in "pull from the internet"

"Ratings" is plural implying all the truck ratings are within spec.

There is nothing like the security of knowing that you have way more truck than you need especially when you go into that exit ramp a bit too hot & the box on wheels behind you feels like it wants to drive.

I have never had a SRW truck. Never had an automatic vehicle before my DRW TV. Never towed anything before my 35' 5er. Jumped right into the deep end of the pool. Sink or swim. Over 200,000 miles later, still swimming.

No, I can't zip around a carpark like I can in my little Toyota Yaris at home, but you get used to having to go out to the fat a$$ed parking 1/4 mile from the store doors.

MFL wrote:
FWIW, his 2011 had the 3.42, and like Gary mentioned, not much sense trading a late model 2500, for a SRW 3500. Now if making the choice, for towing a FW, between purchasing 2500 or 3500, most of us would choose the 3500. IMO, best to get a DRW if GVW of FW is 15K or more.

Jerry

I feel the same way, moving from a 2500 to a 3500 SRW is a lateral the only real change is the GVWR number on the VIN sticker. I felt that even going from our 2001 to 2013 or newer would still be a lateral move. Thus we chose to go DRW, as a future proof for a larger 5er.