I've been reading up on power needs and uses, but things aren't quite clear.For starters I'm looking at the Keystone Passport 2920 BH. From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out?To be able to run the A/C during a hot summer I read one would need to have a 3000-4000 watt inverter, but that most trailers have a 1000-2000 watt inverter. I don't see anything on their site or in their brochure that gives specs on this either.It seems there's some sort of inverter that works off of your propane? Maybe I've just had an overload of info reading from several sites. I read lithium batteries are the better choice. Again a lack of info. Is this the typical battery on RV's? The Passport seems to be a bit more than a mediocre trailer.30 amp service seems to be standard unless one has a 2 A/C trailer. I'm guessing there's no issues with upgrading to 50. This would mostly fix issues with running the A/C along with plenty of typical appliances, right?I'm a bit fuzzy on the load divider. It ensures there's never an issue where the amp draw is too high? It seems most trailers come with two batteries. This shows two banks of two. No desire to add any? If 600 watts of solar panel can be set up well enough and the days are partly cloudy how long could this extend a boondock adventure in the summer running the A/C? What of a winter with the lows around 20* F? I'm guessing with neither the A/C or heat working this amount might keep everything else running indefinitely?Do the trailer batteries do fine when constantly hooked to AC power? I know many batteries don't do well over time like that as batteries are meant to be well used and then charged. I ruined an iPhone keeping it charged.

running some aCs on battery/solar will take a bunch of expense to do. AFAIK, all standard ACs run on 120 volt AC, not DC.you will need a 3000 and up generator.bumpy

For air conditioning you need 3000+ watt generator burning gasoline, diesel or propane.Solar? You would need 3000+ watts and a very large lithium battery and inverter. Easy $15/$20,000Most trailers come with a small 12v battery that may run 12v lights and furnace for 12 to 24 hours if you conserve. The rest is on you.Honestly if I need air 24/7 I am looking for hookups or sweat it out.

Most if not all ac's run on AC power , you would need a very large and expensive inverter and battery bank to run your air conditioner on a DC converted to AC power source. Most people that require the use of there AC without hookups either have one 3000 watt generator or a pair of 2000 watt generators with a parallel kit which is what we use . We also have a 100 watt solar panel that keeps the house batteries charged most of the time and LED bulbs have been installed to use less power when dry camping. is your trailer a 4 season trailer if not and even if it is your going to being using a lot of battery running your heating furnace blower motor (DC) if your out below 20 degrees. good luck with your adventure

rodwha wrote:From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out?I've never heard of an rv AC running on anything but 120vac. You either have to have shore power, generator power, or inverter power.....all are 120vac.However, using an inverter will deplete your 12vdc battery power quite quickly and is never a good idea. Most rv solar panels are only good to keep your starting battery(s) charged and even if it is connected to your house battery(s), it could not keep up with the DC draw by the inverter when running one or more AC units.Ron

rodwha wrote:I've been reading up on power needs and uses, but things aren't quite clear.For starters I'm looking at the Keystone Passport 2920 BH. From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out? Lights will rin on 12VDC. AC will run on 120VACTo be able to run the A/C during a hot summer I read one would need to have a 3000-4000 watt inverter, but that most trailers have a 1000-2000 watt inverter. I don't see anything on their site or in their brochure that gives specs on this either.There is not enough batyeries to run an AC unit for more than a few minutes. Forget this notionIt seems there's some sort of inverter that works off of your propane? Maybe I've just had an overload of info reading from several sites. I read lithium batteries are the better choice. Again a lack of info. Is this the typical battery on RV's? The Passport seems to be a bit more than a mediocre trailer.30 amp service seems to be standard unless one has a 2 A/C trailer. I'm guessing there's no issues with upgrading to 50. This would mostly fix issues with running the A/C along with plenty of typical appliances, right?Lots more involved than simply adding a 50 A cord set. Can be done, but usually cost prohivitiveI'm a bit fuzzy on the load divider. It ensures there's never an issue where the amp draw is too high? It seems most trailers come with two batteries. This shows two banks of two. No desire to add any? If 600 watts of solar panel can be set up well enough and the days are partly cloudy how long could this extend a boondock adventure in the summer running the A/C? What of a winter with the lows around 20* F? I'm guessing with neither the A/C or heat working this amount might keep everything else running indefinitely?Thsts a lot of panels. I doubt you have sufficient roof spaceDo the trailer batteries do fine when constantly hooked to AC power? I know many batteries don't do well over time like that as batteries are meant to be well used and then charged. I ruined an iPhone keeping it charged.Modern converters do this fine keeping batteries up

Understanding Power | Good Sam Community

jsteih
Explorer
Nov 15, 2016
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0rZY5uotKI
valhalla360
Navigator
Nov 15, 2016
I don't mean to be harsh but there is so much wrong with just about everything you said.

rodwha wrote:
I've been reading up on power needs and uses, but things aren't quite clear.

For starters I'm looking at the Keystone Passport 2920 BH.

From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out? Almost all Air/Con units run on 120v AC power.

To be able to run the A/C during a hot summer I read one would need to have a 3000-4000 watt inverter, but that most trailers have a 1000-2000 watt inverter. I don't see anything on their site or in their brochure that gives specs on this either.The bigger issue is you need to supply power to that inverter and most trailers don't even come with an inverter.

It seems there's some sort of inverter that works off of your propane? Maybe I've just had an overload of info reading from several sites. The only way you are getting electricity out of propane is if you get a propane powered generator to create the electricity.

I read lithium batteries are the better choice. Again a lack of info. Is this the typical battery on RV's? The Passport seems to be a bit more than a mediocre trailer.Lithium batteries are rare on RV's. They are much more expensive than traditional lead-acid batteries. They are lighter for the same amount of power stored.

30 amp service seems to be standard unless one has a 2 A/C trailer. I'm guessing there's no issues with upgrading to 50. This would mostly fix issues with running the A/C along with plenty of typical appliances, right?Upgrading to 50amp power can be done but it's not simple (and given your questions it's NOT a DIY project)

I'm a bit fuzzy on the load divider. It ensures there's never an issue where the amp draw is too high?

It seems most trailers come with two batteries. This shows two banks of two. No desire to add any? Most trailers come with 1 battery. If you upgrade to multiple batteries, they can be in one or more banks. Assuming they don't double for starting the main engine (obviously not on a trailer), it doesn't make a lot of sense to put them in separate banks. If you do upgrade and add more batteries, have someone hook them up for you because if you do it wrong, you may wind up with 24 or 48 volts supplied to your 12v devices.

If 600 watts of solar panel can be set up well enough and the days are partly cloudy how long could this extend a boondock adventure in the summer running the A/C? 20-40 minutes (seriously, 600w is only about half of what a typical air/con unit draws so in a very short time your battery bank will be dead...assuming you have a large enough inverter.) 1200-1500w would keep up if it's a clear day and the sun is overhead. Early morning/Late afternoon and output will be far less than the rated amount.)What of a winter with the lows around 20* F? I'm guessing with neither the A/C or heat working this amount might keep everything else running indefinitely?Finally something, that is essentially correct. As long as you are using the propane furnace, 600w and a decent battery bank can be kept up with 600w...of course in the winter solar output is typically much less.

Do the trailer batteries do fine when constantly hooked to AC power?As long as the charger is working properly, it's actually best to keep it plugged in and the batteries fully charged. I know many batteries don't do well over time like that as batteries are meant to be well used and then charged. I ruined an iPhone keeping it charged.

Please find a friend who understands electricity before making any modifications (or pay an electrician to spend an hour or two going over things with you).
rodwha
Explorer
Nov 15, 2016
MNGeeks61 wrote:
This link?

12v side of life

Holy smokes Batman that's some great info!
rodwha
Explorer
Nov 15, 2016
I am mistaken on the batteries. It has two batteries but the picture was misleading in that by appreance each container held two.
2oldman
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2016
rodwha wrote:
eith the proper sized inverter, running an A/C could be done using a generator to recharge during the day. It seems a bank of 4 (unknown output batteries) aren't up to the task for long enough.
No, 4 batteries won't be enough.

I am one of the few on here who runs a/c on batteries - but only occasionally. I have 8- 80a AGMs, a 4kw inverter, 835w solar. It's a 48v system. Why 48v? Because when I tried running air at 12 or even 24v, things started heating up. Cables, connections, batteries. Yes, everything was sized properly, but the high amperage draw eventually made heat. 48v seems to work fine.

I can run my air for about an hour before the batteries start to sag, even at full solar.
2oldman
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2016
MNGeeks61 wrote:
This link?
yes, thank you.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Nov 15, 2016
rodwha wrote:

I was wondering, if with the proper sized inverter, running an A/C could be done using a generator to recharge during the day.

You are making this MUCH too difficult.

A/C runs off of 110 VAC from a pole or from a generator.

Trying to run it from batteries using an inverter is an unnecessary, difficult and expensive proposition.

Run the generator during the day and turn it off sometime between 10 and midnight so as not to disturb your neighbors. By then the interior should be cool enough for the night.
rodwha
Explorer
Nov 15, 2016
Seeing what it takes, both in weight and expense, I'm not interested in solar enough for the A/C. I just figured there would be enough battery power to run it a couple of times a day.

What I am interested in is being able to keep my batteries charged by solar (eventually). I'll assume the two batteries (the picture confused me and I thought there were two banks of 2 batteries) are the lower tier (Group 24) and has a max capacity of about 170 AH. From what I understand is I'd be in good shape with about 400 watts of solar as long as it was mostly sunny.

Anything more (the A/C) and it's time for a hookup or the generator.
time2roll
Nomad
Nov 15, 2016
You got it :)
pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 15, 2016
Hi,

There are a few (read expensive) 48 volt DC air conditioners.

The best batteries are those that meet your particular needs.

Carbon Foam batteries are top of the line for lead acid. The command a top dollar price. LI are excellent except in cold weather--which is just when I need power the most.