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norwestie's avatar
norwestie
Explorer
Jun 19, 2018

120VAC problems

We plugging in to the 50A on the pedestal at a campground Sunday. Here is what happened right after:

(all related to 120VAC):

Several outlets dead
Vacuum cleaner pitch changed up and down when in use
Tower fan burned out (electrical odor noticed)
Coffee machine burned out, smoked noted
Touching exterior door handle, received mild shock

After the fan died and outlets not working, I reported the issue to the camp host. Maintenance man changed the 50 amp receptacle and checked voltage on all legs. All measured normal. When I reconnected, same problems noticed. I tried using my 50A-to-30A adapter and there was no AC power in the coach at all. I then disconnected shore power and ran the generator. Same lack of AC on various outlets. After I received a shock from the door handle, we ran from battery power only.
Perhaps unrelated but when I connected this RV at my home (before this trip) to a 15 amp 120VAC circuit, my GFCI would trip. My previous RV ran fine on the same circuit.
Do all of these point to one issue? I suspect the transfer switch but trust your input.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Now would be a good time to consider the installation of a SURGE GUARD/Energy Monitor like the Progressive Industries HW-50c..

    I strongly suspect if you had one... Complete with optional remote.. The Reomte would have said OPEN NEUTRAL

    You have described what happens with an open neutral very well.
  • KD4UPL wrote:
    There almost has too be two issues here.
    I agree, the campground pedestal was probably mis-wired or had an open neutral. This would fry some things.
    However, since your RV was tripping the GFCI at your home BEFORE this trip then I suspect you also have a ground fault in the RV. You should have investigated the problem then, at home.
    It's possible that the combination of an RV ground fault and a mis-wired pedestal caused more home than it otherwise would have.

    Good point I didn’t pick up on that I thought it only was a problem after the power issues. Most certainly if the OP’s rig was tripping the GCFI outlet before the problem that would mean the rig had a wiring problem. That would have exacerbated any pedestal or campground issues.
  • There almost has too be two issues here.
    I agree, the campground pedestal was probably mis-wired or had an open neutral. This would fry some things.
    However, since your RV was tripping the GFCI at your home BEFORE this trip then I suspect you also have a ground fault in the RV. You should have investigated the problem then, at home.
    It's possible that the combination of an RV ground fault and a mis-wired pedestal caused more home than it otherwise would have.
  • Based on what you describe it is highly likely that the campground pedestal had an open neutral or was miswired I.e. hot and neutral swapped. If one of the hot legs were swapped with neutral that can cause a “hot skin condition” especially with an open ground. It is also possible that they had a floating neutral which can also cause a hot skin condition. What is interesting is the burning smell and tone change would likely be caused by a high voltage between neutral and at least one line in your rig. The fact that you have many things not working now would be expected. You can determine what was destroyed by the pedestal by turning off all the breakers in your rig and plugging in to power. If the GCFI outlet still trips then you have current leaking between hot and ground somewhere. A GCFI outlet measures the current leaving the hot leg and what is returning on the neutral leg. If the two are not equal it will trip. If this is the case then you will need to start chasing down where you have an incorrect NG bond. I would check the transfer switch. In separately derived systems such as generators or inverters require their own NG bond. This is commonly done by the transfer switch. Per the NEC a system can have only one NG bond. This is to prevent ground loops or the ground wire being used as a current carrying line. It’s highly likely that when your rig got fried something is shorted between ground and neutral. If your rig doesn’t trip the GCFI outlet with all the breakers switched off that is great news. Next turn on one breaker at a time. For each circuit using a volt meter or non contact voltage checker determine if voltage is present at outlets. It’s best to start with convenience outlet circuits first. Unplug everything first. All you are doing is checking the wiring not the items that are plugged into them. At a minimum you will likely need to replace anything burned up by the pedestal. I suspect that the solenoid in the transfer switch has failed. That would cause the no power situation if it failed open. That would also explain the problems with the GCFI outlet. Once you get your rig fixed I strongly recommend you purchase an energy management system such as from Progressive Industries or Surge Guard. They prevent this problem from damaging your rig or potentially killing you.
  • Open neutral!
    Open ground!
    It could be in the transfer case.
    Have you reset all the circuit breakers?
    Turn them all off applying light pressure toward off.
    Turn on main circuit breaker.
    Turn on branch circuit breakers one at a time.

    Next test the GFCI receptacles by pushing test buttton, Then after 10-15 seconds push the reset.
  • Sounds like you pole at the camp ground was mis wired.

    transfer switch will not fry things
  • So the maint. guy checked the outlet AFTER he fixed it?
    I suspect you had a floating neutral and fried everything with 240VAC.

    First, you should always turn off the breaker before you plug in.
    Secondly, I strongly suggest you invest in an Energy Management System. It would have paid for itself with this one experience.