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Adventurer1's avatar
Adventurer1
Explorer
Nov 09, 2014

1995 F53 Fan Clutch - defective Ford parts?

I recently replaced the radiator (Performance Radiator 2691CBR), water pump (CARQUEST 51-1709), all hoses and fan clutch (Ford AU2Z-8A616-P) on my 1995 F53. The new fan clutch was coming on while temp was still at mid-scale. About 250 miles after installing it locked up and would not disengage. I had a new Ford fan clutch put on the exact same thing happened again. Before it locked up I noticed odorless white smoke coming from under the dash. I suspect it was the silicon fluid in the fan clutch burning up. The AU2Z-8A616-P is a fairly new part replacing the discontinued F2TZ-8A616-B. It is listed to fit the F53 and the F-250 & F-350. I have read on the forum that truck fan clutches will not work on the F53 so wondering if the AU2Z-8A616-P is undersized for the F53? Has anybody else used an AU2Z-8A616-P on a mid-90 F53? The rest of the cooling system is working perfectly - never gets much beyond mid-scale even on long climbs. I also suspect the fan clutch is not fully engaged as the fan noise is not as loud as when the original fan clutch engaged. I find it hard to believe I got two defective fan clutches and very hesitant to have a third AU2Z-8A616-P installed. I am leaning towards going with a Hayden 2799. Any thoughts or ideas of what else could be causing this?
Class A
  • Adventurer1's avatar
    Adventurer1
    Explorer
    Nov 18, 2014
    Taking a closer look at the Hayden 2799 I found it is designed to come on at 170 degrees. The Ford clutch engagement temp is 195-200. Given this I would think the Hayden clutch would be coming on sooner and staying on longer - not sure I would like that. The original fan clutch would only come on for 30 to 40 seconds at a time and would quickly bring down the coolant temp. I would appreciate feedback from those using the Hayden 2799 and how it's operation compares to the original Ford clutch.
  • Adventurer1's avatar
    Adventurer1
    Explorer
    Nov 18, 2014
    Thanks everyone for the replies. I have heard that is was best to stay with the OEM fan clutch but 2 duds in a row has me wondering. I was hoping someone else had experience with the particular Ford part I am dealing with. Yes, Ford will replace it for free but as someone pointed out that is not a viable solution if they keep failing. I have heard from several local mechanics and parts people that fan clutches in general (after markets in particular) on all types of vehicles have been very problematic the last 5-10 years. It sounds like quite a few people have had luck with the Hayden 2799. I am probably going to try that next. BTW, the Ford part costed $228 - the Hayden: $60. I have had my 460 F53 for 5 years and put on over 40,000 miles (have done many of the upgrades - rebuilt transmission, Banks, steering stabilization etc. along with the required fixes fuel pump, rear bushings ...). It has been a very strong runner and I have been quite happy with it. It is now approaching 90,000 miles. Once I get this fan clutch issue resolved I confident it will run for another 50,000 - 100,000. Thanks again!
  • Dick_A's avatar
    Dick_A
    Explorer
    Nov 18, 2014
    Just a note related to the above post; when the F-53 chassis changed to the V-10 engine many upgrades were made including updating the E40D transmission to the 4R100 which is basically the same transmission with more robust parts in areas that experienced rather early failures.

    As for "after-market" parts, there are "cheap" poor quality parts and then there are specialty manufactures who produce "robust" quality parts. One must inspect the specifications and compare price which will generally indicate the quality of the product. I still have a lot of faith in "American Made" after-market products and am willing to pay a higher price VS a Chinese knockoff.
  • FIRE_UP's avatar
    FIRE_UP
    Explorer
    Nov 18, 2014
    Our previous coach, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder, 34V with the V-10 and F-53 chassis, had 50K on the clock when we sold it to our daughter and son in law. It had the factory fan clutch on it (we bought the coach with 7K on the clock) and it was still operating just fine. Now, this doesn't help the OP but, I've replaced a few fan clutches I my time and, I've pretty much found the factory ones sure have out performed the after market ones.

    That doesn't mean the aftermarket ones don't work, it simply means that I've had better luck with factory replacement parts. I'm not sure about all the part numbers the OP is spitting out and, if he is in fact, getting the wrong part or, there is some factory BAD replacement parts out there. Ford used to have a "Lifetime" replacement on any part they sold. Don't know if that still exists or not. But, who wants to replace a fan clutch every ten minutes just because it's life time guaranteed? I certainly would not. I'd just as soon put one on and, drive about 100K miles with it.

    So, I don't really have any pertinent advice here. I'd maybe talk with the Ford guys and see what, if any, other options for a fan clutch maybe applicable, especially "Heavier duty". Good luck.
    Scott
  • Dick_A's avatar
    Dick_A
    Explorer
    Nov 17, 2014
    The F-53 chassis when used in motorhome service is rated as "severe duty". Thus, many of us who have / had F-53 chassis and travel extensively in mountainous areas chose to upgrade or add additional items. Some of which are heavy duty fan clutches, additional transmission cooler, deeper transmission pan, transmission temperature gauge to mention just a few.

    If you find the fan clutch need to be replaced, I would recommend a Hayden part # 2799 which is rated as "severe duty". I changed mine when I had a full Banks system installed on the motorhome. Beside the items I mentioned above, I also changed all fluids to synthetic, added an additional external oil and cooling fluid filter.

    I made the above changes / additions when the motorhome had less than 30,000 miles. My son now owns the coach and it now has about 80,000 miles. No additional substantial repairs have been required since including the E40D transmission (which attribute to the deep pan, temperature gauge, synthetic fluid and Tru-Cool Max transmission cooler).
  • Harvard's avatar
    Harvard
    Explorer
    Nov 17, 2014
    I too would go with an Hayden fan clutch, comes from problems with other "major" brands, not mentioning any names.
  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    Nov 17, 2014
    Not this particular white smoke problem. But I have had clutches "windmill" a fan that effectively blocks 2/3rds the airflow through the radiator. With an E-350 diesel years ago, I managed to find an aftermarket monster of a fan clutch that did not fail and worked flawlessly. But now everything is made in the middle of a rice paddy so the old standby remedy is probably rubbish.

    Talk about hysterical, in the heat I clamped on a FANTASTIC FAN portable
    ENDLESS BREEZE fan in front of my A/C condenser blowing rearward. Inside A/C vent temperatures dropped dramatically (8F) although it didn't do much of anything for the engine coolant temperature.

    Here's a link to Hayden and down the page is a "Severe Duty" clutch

    http://www.haydenauto.com/featured%20products-fan%20clutches%20and%20fan%20blades/content.aspx
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Nov 17, 2014
    You might have the moderator move this to 'class A' for more exposure.
    Otherwise I don't think that smoke under the dash is related to the clutch.
    My experience a new fan clutch is fairly stiff. Not going to freewheel like an old one.

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