Forum Discussion
- ron_dittmerExplorer II
ernie1 wrote:
If there are two of you, the person with the best hearing should crawl near the fuel tank. Once in position, give a yell to the other to turn the key to the "run" position, not the cranking position. Once in the run position, the person by the fuel tank should hear a quiet humming or buzzing sound for 3 to 5 seconds and then go quiet. That would be the fuel pump pressuring the fuel line.
Try this: on many vehicles there is a switch that turns off the fuel pump in case of an accident and it's located in the footwell-dash area on the passenger side of a Ford vehicle. Your owners manual should show you where it is. Check it and maybe a reset is all you need.
Turn the ignition completely off and then on again to repeat the hum/buzz.
If you don't hear anything, your fuel pump is not working. The first thing to inspect is your fuel pump fuse. Your owners manual will show you where to find it. If burnt out, swap the fuse with another fuse that supports something less important like your power windows and horn for example.
If the fuse is good, the second thing to try is what ernie1 suggests. All our Ford vehicles has one of those switches, from our 1986 Ford Taurus, 1996 Ford Ranger, and our 2007 Ford E350 motor home. I once had to reset that switch on our Ford Taurus. On our 2007 E350, the switch is located in the passenger foot well. It is behind the right-side kick panel. You can feel the switch from the top of the kick panel. You simply press it down towards the street to reset it.
If resetting the switch doesn't get your fuel pump working, there is another thing you can try to get you to a service center. I have successfully done this on other vehicles including a Chevy Express van and my Ford Ranger pick-up truck. It sounds crazy, but it has worked for me.
A 2x4 about 16" long is the ideal tool. Rest one end of the 2x4 on the bottom of the fuel tank and quickly slap the bottom of the tank. You won't dent the fuel tank that way. It can take 1 to 20 or more slaps to jolt the fuel pump inside the fuel tank to operate again.
When a fuel pump fails, it often develops a dead spot on the armature of it's electric motor. The jolting action get's the pump past the dead spot and gets it running. Once running again, DO NOT shut off the engine. Drive directly to a repair center.
Good Luck! - theoldwizard1Explorer II
CSUtah wrote:
Our fuel filter isn't on the rail.
Some where in the past 10-20 years, Ford stopped using an inline filter, mainly because no one else in the industry used one. There is still a "sock" on the pickup in the tank.CSUtah wrote:
We've checked, fuses, listening at the cap.
Do you hear anything when you turn the key to ON ? If not, you really need to confirm that power is getting to the fuel pump while cranking. Do NOT use a meter ! Use an incandescent 12V test light to the pink and black wire if the diagram below is correct.CSUtah wrote:
We've finally think could very well be the fuel pump. Some say it is on top of gas tank haven't found yet.
The fuel pump is part of the fuel pickup/fuel level assembly and held to the top of the tank via a large locking ring. There will be 2 or 3 pipes/hoses connected to it and at least 1 electrical connector.
My gut still says it is a fuse or a relay or the inertia switch and NOT the fuel pump itself. - Harvey51ExplorerOur 2004 E350 has the fuel filter on the passenger side frame a little forward from the rear axel.
Yes, a little tool is needed to disconnect the filter from the line. - CSUtahExplorerThanks again for all the info. Today is nice weather and we are going to try a few things. Will see how we come out. Thank goodness for the forum. You learn more here then anywhere and prepare yourself for the mechanic that you might not know.
- tatestExplorer IIThe in-line fuel filter, if one has been installed, is mounted on the frame (left side) somewhere between the fuel tank and the engine. Your not-starting problem could very well be something else, very likely something else, because clogged fuel filters cause problems at high flow rates, usually not engine starting conditions.
- rockhillmanorExplorer
CSUtah wrote:
Thanks again for all the info. Today is nice weather and we are going to try a few things. Will see how we come out. Thank goodness for the forum. You learn more here then anywhere and prepare yourself for the mechanic that you might not know.
Bad fuel pumps is very common on these year MH's. Sadly The fuel pump is IN the gas tank. In my case I would loose power after it got warm.
20 different places went for the fuel filter which was actually a computer part. Had it replaced and same problem :R
I finally took it to a Ford Truck Dealership.
First of all, all they had to do was open the hood and hooked up a gauge which tells the whole story about your fuel pump. So BEFORE you go off on it being the fuel pump. Have a very simple test done first. :W
I stated earlier if it will not start "check the solenoids" it really is the only thing that prevents starting. And no it doesn't click like the old days, it simply will not start. See my earlier post. There are SEVERAL solenoids on these beasts. And it is a VERY common problem.
Have someone check the volts on each solenoid as you turn the key. That will find which one is not working. ALL of them have to work to start the engine. The one they found that was bad on mine was on the passenger side fender wall. A cheap and easy fix! RV mobile guy knew right away what the problem was just by my phone call because they see it all the time.
Really IMHO I'd call the closest CG near you and ask them who they use for RV Mobile Repair and call him and have him come out to where you are.
He came out and took 5 minutes to check all the solenoids, 5 minutes to replace the bad one! All while it's parked in your driveway!
It will be the best phone call you've ever made for your RV! :C
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