50 amp MH, plugged into 30 amp, ok to run 2 ac units??

RLS7201 wrote:
you should be good to go until the breaker trips.

The problem with that IS......that what "should" happen often is not what DOES happen.

A marginal connection/splice anywhere along the line can cause heat and fire before the breaker trips.

It is NOT a good thing to do. The fact that you might get away with doing it does not change that.

I can do it IF the batteries aren't charging, WH, fridge all on LP. Both A/C's on pull 24A combined when ext temp is ~106. Vin= 113

https://jadelearning.com/jadecc/courses/UNIVERSAL/NEC05.php?imDif=2508

Again this does not directly apply to an RV because everything is on a timer or thermostat. However we all know the air can easily run 12 hours continuous in Summer.

210.20 should get you to the language.

Lantley wrote:

RLS7201 wrote:
If you are plugged into a 30 amp receptacle, protected by a 30 amp breaker and you monitor your voltage, you should be good to go until the breaker trips.

Richard

It's not simply a breaker/current issue. What is the voltage? operating at low voltage will damage the A/C unit.
He will need to pay attention to the voltage. Both units will work....
until they don't!

If you're going to quote me, read my post carefully and completely.
I did note voltage needs to be monitored.

Richard

i haven't had a NEC code book in many years
is that 'residential' or commercial/industrial ratings

and yes there are different codes for different applications
at least there used to be some differences, when i was pulling wiring back in the 80's

man old age is a pain, trying to remember this stuff

IIRC an RV is residential and that 30amp pedestal only has (2) breakers
a 30 and a 20
so even pulling 28 amps or so, you don't have the the heat build up you have in an industrial setting with a stack of breakers feeding a stack of pump motors or machinery
that will run run mostly 24/7

still i would probably run only (1) a/c at a time and alternate them as needed

dougrainer wrote:

ScottG wrote:
As another recently pointed out to me, a 30A outlet is only intended to deliver 24A max continuous.
I think if you go out and check the plug, it may be quite warm. You should also check the voltage inside your RV. It could be very low.

OK, Please state where you get this information. It is WRONG. A 30 amp RV shore Power plug is rated at 30 amps and 30 amps continuous. Doug

When a fellow gentleman member of the forum forrected me in one of my posts, I did a little search and verified the 24 number he stated.
Don't believe it? Look it up for yourself.
Here's a little hint to the correct answer; CB's are sized to 125% of the expected continuous current load...

NEC says supply should be 125 percent of load for a continuous load appliance. continuous is > 3 hours.
Does not really apply for an RV but if operating as such the issues still exist.

ScottG wrote:
As another recently pointed out to me, a 30A outlet is only intended to deliver 24A max continuous.
I think if you go out and check the plug, it may be quite warm. You should also check the voltage inside your RV. It could be very low.

OK, Please state where you get this information. It is WRONG. A 30 amp RV shore Power plug is rated at 30 amps and 30 amps continuous. Doug

RLS7201 wrote:
If you are plugged into a 30 amp receptacle, protected by a 30 amp breaker and you monitor your voltage, you should be good to go until the breaker trips.

Richard

It's not simply a breaker/current issue. What is the voltage? operating at low voltage will damage the A/C unit.
He will need to pay attention to the voltage. Both units will work....
until they don't!

If you are plugged into a 30 amp receptacle, protected by a 30 amp breaker and you monitor your voltage, you should be good to go until the breaker trips.

Richard