8.1L Reduced engine power on LCD display

Update:
To be on the safe side, I had the Engine Check Light read by a garage. Code P 1518 is when the Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected a loss of data or invalid data from the Throttle Actuator Control (TAC).
From the Internet;
“The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module contains data which is essential for proper TAC operation. The TAC module continuously test the integrity of this data. When the TAC module is unable to write or read data to and from random access memory (RAM), or the TAC module is unable to correctly read data from the flash memory or and internal TAC module processor fault is detected and the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is set.”
Everything appears to be back to normal and I am traveling, so not pursuing anything else right now. But I have ordered the following scanner for future peace of mind in the case of another occurrence.
FOXWELL NT301 Car Obd2 Code Scanner.
I shall have it in a couple of days.

Thanks for all your inputs.

most of the time reduced power light is caused by a bad throttle body

I have owned this coach since new and got the "Reduced Engine Power" 6 months after purchase, but it cleared itself and had not re-occurred. Otherwise, this vehicle powertrain has always done me well and I often praise it to others.

I was not aware of the MAF sensor and since have Googled it. As I have an appointment this Friday to have the engine scanned, I will be smarter on this issue at that time.

I will most likely be picking up a scanner of some sort.

As a member of IRV2, I do use the same Login as I do on RV.Net.

I thank everyone for the prompt replies'

You can get a "Code Scanner" at any auto place. I have an el-cheapo (it gives you the number you have to look it up on line or in the included book)

Or you can get an app for your phone TORQUE is the one I use. and then I have an OBDII to Blue Tooth adapter .. It reads and allows me to clear the codes. also translates.

As for the MAF sensor.. Happned on a car I used to own. Once I figured out the code (OBD One so I did not need a reader.. Just a paperclip and a brain or two) I fixed it in 2 seconds flat.

About once a year, my 8.1L would go in to "limp" mode, which is reduced power. My gauges would not rear right, etc. I would shut the engine down and go out and using the chassis battery disconnect switch, I would switch power off to the engine. This seemed to reboot the engine electronic control module and I would be good to go for maybe another year(10,000-15,000 miles) or so.
This is not a new trick as mechanics have been disconnecting the battery to reset the electronics on vehicles for years.
Sure it would be nice to find out what caused the issue but I was more interested in continuing my trip. If the problem came back immediately after I reset the ECM, naturally I would have done more to diagnose the problem. Since it only did this once a year or so, I figured it was caused by some sort of blip in the electronic controls and NOT a bad component.

Have you ever cleaned your MAF?

A dirty MAF will cause loss of power along with P0151 and P0152 Check Engine Lights which say bad O2 sensor. Replaced sensors, no help. Turns out they were detecting poor fuel to air mixture which was caused by the dirty MAF.

I spent a year chasing intermittent P0151 codes, that was what caused me to buy a Ultragauge to track down the problem.

Suggest you buy a scanner of some sort.

http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
is what I use.

I'm on Irv2 and didn't see your post. Do you use the same name on there?