Sorry, I should clarify my comment. My current RV is a Winnie, the prior was a TT with a Coleman Mach 13.5 AC with controls on the unit. For that unit, the temp controller was a dial on the AC which sets the point at which the compressor will cycle off. This type of unit uses a probe (or thermocouple) that senses the evaporator coil dry bulb temperature. If the dial is set too low, the evaporator coil will get to a temperature below 32F hence the coil will build up ice. If that happens, the airflow will diminish as ice builds up on the evaporator coil fins.
I am in agreement with Effy in that a 13.5 BTUH unit will theoretically generate 13.5 BTU of cooling when the compressor is activated. The wall thermostat, or cooling temperature dial on panel mounted unit only turns the compressor on and off.
The danger of running the unit (compressor energized) with an iced over evaporator coil is that this could allow liquid refrigerant to pass from the evaporator to the compressor through the suction side hose/pipe and destroy the compressor (which is only designed to compress gas, not liquid which is incompressible).
To the OP, if the unit is no longer cooling the compressor could be toast due to liquid getting into the suction line when the coil was frozen and the compressor running.