Anode Rod for Atwood

Brett...
Very true...not enough coffee when I typed that.

Thanks for the correction.

Jim

Actually, Atwoods have aluminum tanks. But agree with the rest of the post.

Anodes are not needed or recommended by Atwood.

A zinc rod is meant to act as a piece of "sacrificial" metal so that electrolysis impacts less critical elements.
The fact that your rod was partially deteriorated doesn't mean that harm would have taken place regarding your waterheater.

Atwoods are galvanized, and do not require a zinc anode. The fact that you offered up some zinc to the great gods of electrolysis/erosion, and they took advantage of a free meal doesn't mean that it served any useful purpose ;)

Jim

RVER wrote:
The metal on an anode rod plug WILL DAMAGE your Atwood water tank opening. Two different metals etc. DO NOT USE AN ANODE ROD. Buy a replacement plastic plug and replace once a year or two. Screw it into the water heater with finger pressure only or if it is leaking just turn with wrench very little, just enough to stop the leak. Use teflon tape on the threads, that helps it not leak with finger pressure only. This is advice for Atwood water heater only, Suburban water heaters do use anode rods and should but not Atwood!

How can an aluminum anode harm a aluminum tank? You can get anodes made out of aluminum or magnesium.

I had my Aplenlite 5er for almost 10 years and it had a Suburban W/H in it and I changed the rod every year and when I pulled it out about half of it was gone. Not thinking I went to CW and got a new rod for my coach (Atwood) and installed a new rod lot shorter than the one for the Suburban and after reading all this I went out and pulled the rod and about 10% of it was gone, so if they don't need one what happened to the rod:h
This is the one I installed and removed after reading this, only in for about 4mo and it looked about the same as in the Youtube.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-12-/37395
JR

The metal on an anode rod plug WILL DAMAGE your Atwood water tank opening. Two different metals etc. DO NOT USE AN ANODE ROD. Buy a replacement plastic plug and replace once a year or two. Screw it into the water heater with finger pressure only or if it is leaking just turn with wrench very little, just enough to stop the leak. Use teflon tape on the threads, that helps it not leak with finger pressure only. This is advice for Atwood water heater only, Suburban water heaters do use anode rods and should but not Atwood!

deandec wrote:
Thanks for the clarification Old Biscuit. You certainly have a great deal of knowledge on the subject.

Guess eleven years of success with my Rodd was just a lucky coincidence from which no one else could benefit.

But I sure enjoy the electric operation convenience in addition to the LP result without having to replace my unit with Atwood's gas and electric version to achieve the same result.

Sometimes manufacturers proclaim, do not use, because they sell a more expensive competing product. Good marketing, but not necessarily in the best interest of of the consumer.

Just passing info along.....

Hott Rod or Lightning Rod can be used w/o problems.
Good tool for what it is...supplemental electric heat.
As long as folks continue routine draining/flushing of water heater there should NOT be a problem.
It's just that folks get lazy and don't do the draining/flushing and end up with a tank full of junk that reduces the heating ability.

Thanks for the clarification Old Biscuit. You certainly have a great deal of knowledge on the subject.

Guess eleven years of success with my Rodd was just a lucky coincidence from which no one else could benefit.

But I sure enjoy the electric operation convenience in addition to the LP result without having to replace my unit with Atwood's gas and electric version to achieve the same result.

Sometimes manufacturers proclaim, do not use, because they sell a more expensive competing product. Good marketing, but not necessarily in the best interest of of the consumer.

Just make sure to Teflon tape or pipe dope the threads of the rod. Otherwise it will galvanically weld into place.

deandec wrote:
Well, our 18 year old Atwood does not have an anode rod because it is not needed.

So, not to be left out without such a rod, I installed a Hott Rod.

Now my gas only Atwood is also electric powered.

An anode rod and the Hott Rod are two completely different items for two completely uses....

The Anode Rod is a sacrificial rod made of aluminum or magnesium that reacts with minerals in water and slowly deteriorates due to galvanic action....saves the tank wall

The Hott Rod is an aftermarket electric heating element to heat water via AC power

Neither item is recommended by Atwood....
Anode Rod..because it is not needed
Hott Rod (or Lightning Rod)....because once installed in drain hole folks have a tendency to not drain & flush water heater routinely