Atwood Products furnace repair troubleshooting advice...
We have an Atwood Products furnace, model 8525-IV-DCLP that I am trying to repair myself, maybe someone knowledgeable about RV furnces could give me some advice. This is the problem and what I have done so far…
When the problem first occurred, whenever I turned on the furnace, first the blower turned on as it always does, then after about 10 - 20 seconds I could hear it click to try to start the flame. I assume the click sound is the igniter (or I guess they call it the electrode). The problem is that after the click, the flame or heat does not start.
So after I hear the click, no heat comes on then about a half minute to a minute later, I hear another click. This goes on repeatedly after a few minutes and then the blower shuts off.
So after the blower shut off, I opened up the furnace panel on the exterior of the vehicle, and the LED on the control circuit board flashes 3 times, then a long pause and then 3 times again. Over and over. The error code label on the furnace indicates that three flashes and a long pause indicate an “Ignition Lockout Failure”.
So I went ahead and called Atwood, the guy there said the first thing to try was to replace the electrode. So I ordered a new electrode, only cost five bucks so no great loss. It was a part number 37057 Electrode direct from Atwood. I installed it, and tried firing up the furnace again. This time the same thing happens with only one difference. The furnace does not start as per above, the difference being that with the new electrode, it repeatedly tries to start, and after several minutes does not automatically shut off. It just continuously tries to start. And now this time there are no error codes.
I made sure that the contact was clean between the new electrode and the connector, and used some abrasive paper to clean off the oxidation and rust on the contact so I am assuming there is good contact there.
In both cases above – I am not sure but it does sound like the flame comes on for about 2 or three seconds (not sure about that but it sounds like the flame is on), and then that supposed flame sound cuts out.
So given the above, are there any suggestions as to what to try next?
The guy at Atwood said that if a new electrode does not solve the problem, that it could be the LPG regulator that is bad, because if it’s bad, the furnace is not getting enough propane pressure to run.
If this is the next thing to check can anyone give me an idea where the regular is, how to replace it or if I should - is it a PIA to do? Is there a way to test the LPG regulator to see if it is bad? Or should I look at something else first?
I am assuming that this should not be attempted until the propane tank is completely empty – any other suggestions as to what other than the regulator could causing the problem thanks…
PS, stove, water heater and fridge all run on propane and all are working AOK, but Atwood guy said that the regulator still could be bad because the furnace requires the most LPG flow and pressure so he said it's possible the regulator could be bad and the fridge water heater and stove could still function properly even if the regular is bad.
When the problem first occurred, whenever I turned on the furnace, first the blower turned on as it always does, then after about 10 - 20 seconds I could hear it click to try to start the flame. I assume the click sound is the igniter (or I guess they call it the electrode). The problem is that after the click, the flame or heat does not start.
So after I hear the click, no heat comes on then about a half minute to a minute later, I hear another click. This goes on repeatedly after a few minutes and then the blower shuts off.
So after the blower shut off, I opened up the furnace panel on the exterior of the vehicle, and the LED on the control circuit board flashes 3 times, then a long pause and then 3 times again. Over and over. The error code label on the furnace indicates that three flashes and a long pause indicate an “Ignition Lockout Failure”.
So I went ahead and called Atwood, the guy there said the first thing to try was to replace the electrode. So I ordered a new electrode, only cost five bucks so no great loss. It was a part number 37057 Electrode direct from Atwood. I installed it, and tried firing up the furnace again. This time the same thing happens with only one difference. The furnace does not start as per above, the difference being that with the new electrode, it repeatedly tries to start, and after several minutes does not automatically shut off. It just continuously tries to start. And now this time there are no error codes.
I made sure that the contact was clean between the new electrode and the connector, and used some abrasive paper to clean off the oxidation and rust on the contact so I am assuming there is good contact there.
In both cases above – I am not sure but it does sound like the flame comes on for about 2 or three seconds (not sure about that but it sounds like the flame is on), and then that supposed flame sound cuts out.
So given the above, are there any suggestions as to what to try next?
The guy at Atwood said that if a new electrode does not solve the problem, that it could be the LPG regulator that is bad, because if it’s bad, the furnace is not getting enough propane pressure to run.
If this is the next thing to check can anyone give me an idea where the regular is, how to replace it or if I should - is it a PIA to do? Is there a way to test the LPG regulator to see if it is bad? Or should I look at something else first?
I am assuming that this should not be attempted until the propane tank is completely empty – any other suggestions as to what other than the regulator could causing the problem thanks…
PS, stove, water heater and fridge all run on propane and all are working AOK, but Atwood guy said that the regulator still could be bad because the furnace requires the most LPG flow and pressure so he said it's possible the regulator could be bad and the fridge water heater and stove could still function properly even if the regular is bad.
