Battery Compartment leak ( Up Date)

To shut the charger down (you really do NOT want to do that, you want to stop the batteries from drawing current)

Step one. Get two small cans of spray paint, One red, One black (Testors?)

Step two, On the most positive battery terminal is one or more wires running off to who knows where (NOT to another battery) Spray paint RED

On the most negative.. Well I know where it runs to but paint it black.

Wait 24 hours for paint to fully dry

Now remove wires from negative terminal and set aside (NOTE: If you wish you can lift one end of the jumper between the two batteries first but.. You need to be very careful if you do this I'd wait and pull the most negative lead, an accidental short to ground won't cause damage or injury)

Then remove the POSITIVE (now red) wires and put a bolt through them and wrap this in plastic, put it in a cup, or bottle or wrap it in bubble wrap or otherwise insulate it from everythign.

Replace batteries come spring

The bolt will keep you from loosing a stray wire

The paint tells you which end is which.

TexasH wrote:

ROYBUCK wrote:
I would like to shut the charger down how can I do that I am plugged into shore power. I have the Xantaex freedom 458 Inverter/charger with the energy management system. Thanks Roy

My converter has a 120v plug near it and it is just plugged in there. If yours is powered that way, just unplug it. But be aware that will shut down all the 12v systems. If you just want to shut down the charger, disconnect the battery wire at the converter. Then the 12v systems will still work. your refrigerator, heater, and many lights may be powered by 12v controls.

He does not have a Converter. He has an Inverter/Charger. Different animal. ROYBUCK, please respond to my question. You state you are removing the batteries or disconnecting them and you want to shut the charger section down because you will be on Shore Power. WHY??? With no Batteries or the Charger inactive, your RV and systems will be useless regardless of being on shore power. The ONLY thing you may run is your TV system and the Microwave and IF you have an RV refer that will not operate either. Your Roof Air units will not operate either. You MUST have 12 volt power to operate a RV. Doug

I chose a 150AH Lifeline AGM because of their aircraft experience and reputation and where I had to put it, in the tongue box on our teardrop trailer. Concord/Lifeline has most anything you can dream up BUT they are expensive. A conventional true deep cycle is perhaps more cost effective and a Trojan or Rolls Surrette rivals longevity if taken care of properly. Rolls makes AGM's too with up to 260AH for a single 12V.

ROYBUCK wrote:
I would like to shut the charger down how can I do that I am plugged into shore power. I have the Xantaex freedom 458 Inverter/charger with the energy management system. Thanks Roy

My converter has a 120v plug near it and it is just plugged in there. If yours is powered that way, just unplug it. But be aware that will shut down all the 12v systems. If you just want to shut down the charger, disconnect the battery wire at the converter. Then the 12v systems will still work. your refrigerator, heater, and many lights may be powered by 12v controls.

Assuming you have 2 pairs, you can remove one pair and still have 12 volts power, leave your converter/inverter/charge powered up, and leave the shore power connected. Everything will work. Half normal reserve capacity but as you are plugged in, not an issue.

I had to disconnect and remove one of my interstate workhorse chassis batteries last fall when a cel shorted, it started heating up and drawing lots of current from the charger. Pulled it out, along with it's cables. The one still there will crank the diesel no problem.
New batteries in the spring.

On the AGM question (for the house batteries, my big question would be reserve capacity?
The u2200's and T105's claim 220 ampere hours per battery (half useable) so a 4 battery bank gives 220 ah useable capacity.

So... will an equivalent size AGM bank give more reserve power? And how much more?
I've heard of batteries that let you use it all, not just 50%, but don't think they were AGM, something else, and buku expensive.

tplife wrote:
+2 to the recommendation to go AGM. They are typically rated in most applications to outlast any standard lead-acid battery. They have more advantages over standard lead-acid batteries than can be listed here, but a few as no-maintenance units, you can trade in your battery trays and boxes, outside mounting, gloves, acid-washed jeans and hydrometer. They are designed as drop-in replacements for standard lead-acid batteries and are safe to be mounted unvented and upside down inside your unit.

I would check but both type of AGM that I have says Not upside down

I would fill the batts with acid and desulphate. It can repair them.

I would recommend that you take the bad batteries out of the RV and clean the battery box with lots of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid that is bound to destroy your battery compartment. Then find the converter and disconnect the 110 Volt power to it until you install new batteries.

+2 to the recommendation to go AGM. They are typically rated in most applications to outlast any standard lead-acid battery. They have more advantages over standard lead-acid batteries than can be listed here, but a few as no-maintenance units, you can trade in your battery trays and boxes, outside mounting, gloves, acid-washed jeans and hydrometer. They are designed as drop-in replacements for standard lead-acid batteries and are safe to be mounted unvented and upside down inside your unit.

+2 to the recommendation to go AGM. They are typically rated in most applications to outlast any standard lead-acid battery. They have more advantages over standard lead-acid batteries than can be listed here, but a few as no-maintenance units, you can trade in your battery trays and boxes, outside mounting, gloves, acid-washed jeans and hydrometer. They are designed as drop-in replacements for standard lead-acid batteries and are safe to be mounted unvented and upside down inside your unit.