So, I guess the "age" demons are playing with us on our new (used) coach (1999 model). Nothing major, but we noticed that the living room/kitchen slide went out one-sided....we could get it to go out completely and evenly without much effort by pushing. After looking around along the side and under the slide, lubing everything good, and finally looking in the basement at the mechanics, I found the bolt had sheared off that holds the rod to the gear on the rear side of the slide. Not sure what could have been binding to cause it to shear off, but there it was, clear as day...a broken bolt. So now, I am on the hunt for a grade 6 bolt (what came out of it) and then to figure out how to align the bolt holes without disconnecting the entire rod. Should be interesting. Any tips??

Most slides have a "manual" operation, if the motor fails. Would that procedure help align things any better?

Mine had a split pin that snapped on the slave slide. I was able to align using a pipe wrench on the shaft.

If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.Fred

fcooper wrote:If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.FredFred, I'm not familiar with the system but are you sure that it is a good idea to install a beefier bolt in a location that is supposed to "shear" if there is an obstruction? Isn't that like putting in a larger fuse in an electrical circuit? Perhaps if the bolt shears off, if it was designed that way, it is to protect from greater damage if it does not shear.

rgatijnet1 wrote:fcooper wrote:If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.FredFred, I'm not familiar with the system but are you sure that it is a good idea to install a beefier bolt in a location that is supposed to "shear" if there is an obstruction? Isn't that like putting in a larger fuse in an electrical circuit? Perhaps if the bolt shears off, if it was designed that way, it is to protect from greater damage if it does not shear.That was going to be my question... isn't the bolt SUPPOSED to be a shear point in case something gets in a bind? I'll try Fred's suggestion about using a crescent wrench to turn the shaft a bit to align the bolt holes, but I think I'll stick with the grade 6 bolt that came out of it.**EDIT** Went back and looked at the bolt...it is a grade 8 bolt that was in it, so I'll replace it with a grade 8!

Bolt Sheared Off on Slide Rod | Good Sam Community

10forty2
Explorer
Jul 28, 2014
rgatijnet1 wrote:
fcooper wrote:
If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.

Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.

Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.

Fred

Fred,
I'm not familiar with the system but are you sure that it is a good idea to install a beefier bolt in a location that is supposed to "shear" if there is an obstruction? Isn't that like putting in a larger fuse in an electrical circuit? Perhaps if the bolt shears off, if it was designed that way, it is to protect from greater damage if it does not shear.

That was going to be my question... isn't the bolt SUPPOSED to be a shear point in case something gets in a bind? I'll try Fred's suggestion about using a crescent wrench to turn the shaft a bit to align the bolt holes, but I think I'll stick with the grade 6 bolt that came out of it.

**EDIT** Went back and looked at the bolt...it is a grade 8 bolt that was in it, so I'll replace it with a grade 8!
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Jul 28, 2014
fcooper wrote:
If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.

Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.

Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.

Fred

Fred,
I'm not familiar with the system but are you sure that it is a good idea to install a beefier bolt in a location that is supposed to "shear" if there is an obstruction? Isn't that like putting in a larger fuse in an electrical circuit? Perhaps if the bolt shears off, if it was designed that way, it is to protect from greater damage if it does not shear.
fcooper
Explorer
Jul 28, 2014
If this is where the square drive rod mates to the round rod on a powergear electric slide, you want to find a grade 8 bolt long enough so that the shoulder of the bolt covers both areas where the shear stress is located. It's ok to use a few washers on the threads if required as long as you have clearance.

Once you find the right bolt, buy a few spares.

Realignment is fairly easy. Get the slide fully extended and use a large crescent wrench on the square tube. You should be able to flex it enough to allow the alignment and get the bolt/nut installed. I've had several break until I learned about the grade 8 bolt with the shoulder long enough to keep the threaded portion away from the shear stress area.

Fred
Jerallen
Explorer
Jul 28, 2014
Mine had a split pin that snapped on the slave slide. I was able to align using a pipe wrench on the shaft.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Jul 28, 2014
Most slides have a "manual" operation, if the motor fails. Would that procedure help align things any better?

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Bolt Sheared Off on Slide Rod

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