Brake Job on 95 F53 ***Update***

We've been debating on upgrading for a while and now seemed as good a time as any. So in a week we pick up a new Winnebago Vista 32YE. Got a great deal I think with all the upgrades and can't wait to get to exploring in it.

eastfizz wrote:
...The calipers also came with guide pins incorporating stainless steel...

Thinking this was the real cure to the problem.

To OP, good luck on your brake job.

Purchased our 1997 Rexhall in 2006 with 18,500 miles on it. One of the first things I did was replace the brake calipers with re-built ones from NAPA. I also replaced the brake hoses, and brake fluid. One of the reasons I went with the NAPA calipers was the metal pistons used (heard the stock, phenolic ones were not good) The calipers also came with guide pins incorporating stainless steel. Used permatex disk brake caliper lube when I installed the pins. Last year, after 35,000 trouble free miles (including a trip to Alaska and back), decided to pack the front wheel bearings and check the caliper pins. After repacking the bearings, re-lubed the caliper pins, reassembled, and everything is good again. Living in Colorado, going out of the state often means going over mountain passes. Never any sticking calipers or other brake problems. Just my experience, others may differ.

Best regards,

Lowell

I replaced my calipers and lines a couple years ago. The pads looked brand new, but the calipers showed wear and apparently had taken some heat at some point. The rubber portions of the brake lines were starting to crack, so I was glad I decided to replace them as well.

time2roll wrote:
At 20+ years old and sticking calipers... consider new/rebuilt calipers and new hoses all around.

I AGREE !

Also, get new slide pins with boots.

If you do NOT get reman caliper, make sure the surface UNDERNEATH the stainless steel hardware is cleaned down to bare metal. Brake caliper grease should always be placed on that surface.

I forgot to mention to pay attention to the boiling point of the brake fluid.

Ford OEM brake fluid is actually very good as is their high temp caliper slide lube.

My 97 F53 was over loaded by a 35’ Holiday Rambler. It weighed 20000 pounds.

I would experience fade on downhills. I didn’t ride them, brake hard to slow then get off to cool.

The best way I found to not get them so hot was to use them as little as possible.

just to clear the air a bit,the rubber hose can collapse on any auto. no matter who made it.if there old ? change them.

Thanks for all the replies. I know it's not a do it once thing I've greased the pins before I should have been more clear. I have a 2000 mile trip coming up with some pretty good mountain passes so not sure of the age of all the components I figured replacing with new stuff will give momma piece of mind. Going to round up parts this week and hit it Saturday. Wish me luck.

I don't know if I would say I had poor braking issues, just I was never very confident in them. I upgraded to the best calipers, did the lube, did the DOT 3 swap, everything I could think of except for your grinding down pad trick. Even after all of that I would suck in air if I was in heavy traffic approaching a stoplight (going the speed limit) that would then turn yellow on me. I never felt good about the stopping distance. Like BigK said I drove like I didn't have brakes, only problem is everytime I left a gap, some yo-yo would pass me and then pull into that gap I had, prior to some stop.

Got truck/5'ver now. I hit the brakes, little red light shines brightly, all is good.

So much mis-information. There are 5 brake hoses on your chassis, not 3. It was the chevy P32 chassis that had the brake hose problem, not the Ford F53 chassis. The brake hoses are still in good shape on my 95 F53.

I suspect you'll find the dust boots on the rear calipers have been over heated and are cracked. The OEM phenolic caliper pistons can swell and drag in their bores. You can buy metal pistons and caliper rebuild kits or exchange your calipers for complete units.

Before you attach the new outer pads to the calipers, check fit them in the axle bracket. They needs to float freely in the axle brackets. Most outer pads are a touch too long and need to ground down a little.

As already noted, clean or replace the slide pins and the surfaces they press in to. Use the synthetic grease labeled for brakes on the pins and mounting surfaces. The front slide pins, are much easier to remove if you un-screw the steering stops first. Cleaning and greasing the slide pins is an every other year maintenance item, according to Ford. Also change the brake fluid on a two year schedule.

Unless the rotors are warped or have been scored by metal from the pads, leave them alone. No need to turn them.

Don't go cheap on the pads. $39.95 per axle is not enough to get quality pads. More like $100.00 per axle. :(:(

Not sure why others experience poor braking problems. On one panic stop, my wife got seat belt bruises. Bad brakes won't do that.

Richard