brakes

New to forum, but I just retired from working on heavy equipment for 36 years. I didn't replace a drum or a rotor unless it was out of spec. or broken. Shoes and pads will burn in but you must be wary the first several stops. Same as first driving a RV that has sat all winter, you must burn the rust off the brakes to get full stopping power.

OK. How do you know this? What are your credentials? Tell us how many years you've made your living working on heavy vehicles and brakes. How many years have you been ASE certified? How many seminars have you attended, given by various brake part manufactures.

Richard

Good ole real life experience. I for one, knows that just because something is new (rotors) doesn't make it absolutely ready for service. They should be checked to ensure their true. No ase certification, no seminars. Just some things that I do.
Oh yea. Been around heavy vehicles and equipment for about 35 years now.
Commercial Class A license. DMV certified instructor.
So yea, I probably don't know too much.
Just sayin.

What ever you decide to do flush the brake fluid at the same time putting in all new brake fluid.

fyrflie wrote:
You should always turn your rotors when replacing your pads for maximum braking efficiency.
In fact on many large trucks, they will even grind the pads to ensure a good fit.

Even new rotors should be turned to verify a true surface.

When your dealing with the weight of any large vehicle, brakes and/or braking systems should not be the place where you may want to save some money.
Can your wheel bearings be repacked vs. being replaced ?

Also remember that everything posted on these forums are opinions and not necessarily correct.
Use due diligence when using the information given. Ask me how I know this!

Good luck.

OK. How do you know this? What are your credentials? Tell us how many years you've made your living working on heavy vehicles and brakes. How many years have you been ASE certified? How many seminars have you attended, given by various brake part manufactures.

Richard

Hard to imagine your brakes needing replacement at 50,000 mile. I had someone trying to sell me a brake job on my Jeep which has 28,000 miles. Most of my vehicles go about 100,000 miles before needing pads. A persons driving habits make a big difference as to how many miles a set of brakes will last
Second opinions are always a good idea.

You should always turn your rotors when replacing your pads for maximum braking efficiency.
In fact on many large trucks, they will even grind the pads to ensure a good fit.

Even new rotors should be turned to verify a true surface.

When your dealing with the weight of any large vehicle, brakes and/or braking systems should not be the place where you may want to save some money.
Can your wheel bearings be repacked vs. being replaced ?

Also remember that everything posted on these forums are opinions and not necessarily correct.
Use due diligence when using the information given. Ask me how I know this!

Good luck.

RL S7201 I am with you about putting new pads on I thinks the rotors are okay. Thanks for your input. RV Net's a great help for a novice

Unless your rotors are warped or cracked from heat, there is no reason to replace or turn them. Pitted rotors are not an issue. High performance rotors come with holes and slots in them. My 1995 F53 rotors are original and unturned and have 148,000 miles on them. I have replaced the pads once and rebuilt the calipers three times. New pads will seat in on old rotor surfaces. Don't fall for the hype.
I do believe that calipers need to be rebuilt or replaced when new pads are installed. The dirt and crud that collects under the boot and on the extended caliper surface will damage the piston seal when the piston is pushed back in the bore.

Richard

some good points made, 50k things should be checked over.I would take it to a big truck dealer NOT A RV DEALER.

Don't know what chassis you have but on my Workhorse chassis, my rotors are still good at 90,000 miles altho I changed pads at about 50,000.
On the side of the rotor is the MINIMUM size mark to which they can be turned and still used. A lot of mechanics would rather replace rather than resurface old rotors, especially if they do not have the equipment.
The choice is up to you but most places will charge $100+ for each new rotor and the cost to turn each rotor could be as low as $25 each and some shops have the equipment to turn the rotors while still on the vehicle.
Brakes are one of those things that a lot of shops really love to use as a cost upgrade to the customer. Once it is apart, they may say you need new calipers, new brake lines, new bearings and seals, etc. The next thing you know, that low estimate for your brake work has skyrocketed to $2000-$3000.
I'm not saying that those things may not be required on your coach, but make sure that you are not paying to replace parts that are perfectly good.
Also make sure that they FLUSH the old brake fluid and do not just bleed the brakes, leaving most of the old fluid intact.