Can a portable generator be hooked up as a permanent one?

TyroneandGladys wrote:

Our mechanic greatly reduced the amount of heat coming from the engine into the cab by fabricating a air dam that is bolted to the frame just behind the front bumper. According to him the problem is that there is no air flow up around the engine to flush the heat out and the air dam creates that airflow.

That sounds like a great idea! So this "air dam" just disrupts the flow of the air and gets it swirling around the engine? I'd love to see a picture of that gizmo.

TyroneandGladys wrote:
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If you are going to run a generator anywhere near a RV you should have a CO2 detector in your RV. .

Thats a CO ( no 2) detector. Carbon MONO not carbon dioxide

to the OP, the use of the bumper mount is kinda like what I said I did. DO NOT mount to the bumper as most are not heavy enough to take the weight. You will need to hook up to the frame. I used 2 of the bumper receiver mounts, attached to the frame with gr 8 bolts. I ran the rails out PAST the original hose bumper/carrier and now it only holds some of the weight. Due to the weight I do not carry the spare out there, but did add a reciever carrier and added a plastic work box to carry the stuff that I would normally have to put in bed of truck.

As to the flex pipe, I dont know what was read, but I said to use flex pipe as a way to run the exhaust out if putting the genset in the cubby hole.

Cheryl_B wrote:

TyroneandGladys wrote:
On our first Class C we mounted a generator on hitch carrier. Secured it for transport with cargo straps and for theft we used a high quality cable bike lock. Reran the power cord to come out the floor and back to the generator allowing us to be plugged into generator while driving and that allowed us to run the roof air while driving. No problems with exhaust.
If you are going to run a generator anywhere near a RV you should have a CO2 detector in your RV. .

Now, that sounds doable! I don't have a hitch carrier but the usual big bumper with the holding tank hose inside. There's a spare tire mounted back there, too. I was hoping someday to buy a scooter and find a way to mount a ramp for it in that area.

I hear that it gets really hot when you're driving a gas Class C cause the heat of the engine is just pumping into the cab. I noticed that even when I try to put the air vent on and put it all the way to cool, I get nothing but warm air. I will have to find a way to run the generator while driving if that is the case.

I'm so happy that I'm buying a generator! I didn't expect to find a good one so quickly. I pick it up on Sunday morning.

Our mechanic greatly reduced the amount of heat coming from the engine into the cab by fabricating a air dam that is bolted to the frame just behind the front bumper. According to him the problem is that there is no air flow up around the engine to flush the heat out and the air dam creates that airflow.

TyroneandGladys wrote:

If you are going to run a generator anywhere near a RV you should have a CO2 detector in your RV. .

I think you mean a CO detector. You should also have one if you have a gas stove, furnace, fridge, or water heater (and, at least for new RVs, there should be one equipped as per the standard code requirements).

I visualize a thick steel cable bolted securely to the generator and to the RV frame somehow so that you can pull the generator out and put it back in the compartment with chain or cable connected. Maybe an eye bolt on the generator and a pad lock so that you can disconnect and place generator where you want it.

TyroneandGladys wrote:
On our first Class C we mounted a generator on hitch carrier. Secured it for transport with cargo straps and for theft we used a high quality cable bike lock. Reran the power cord to come out the floor and back to the generator allowing us to be plugged into generator while driving and that allowed us to run the roof air while driving. No problems with exhaust.
If you are going to run a generator anywhere near a RV you should have a CO2 detector in your RV. .

Now, that sounds doable! I don't have a hitch carrier but the usual big bumper with the holding tank hose inside. There's a spare tire mounted back there, too. I was hoping someday to buy a scooter and find a way to mount a ramp for it in that area.

I hear that it gets really hot when you're driving a gas Class C cause the heat of the engine is just pumping into the cab. I noticed that even when I try to put the air vent on and put it all the way to cool, I get nothing but warm air. I will have to find a way to run the generator while driving if that is the case.

I'm so happy that I'm buying a generator! I didn't expect to find a good one so quickly. I pick it up on Sunday morning.

On our first Class C we mounted a generator on hitch carrier. Secured it for transport with cargo straps and for theft we used a high quality cable bike lock. Reran the power cord to come out the floor and back to the generator allowing us to be plugged into generator while driving and that allowed us to run the roof air while driving. No problems with exhaust.
If you are going to run a generator anywhere near a RV you should have a CO detector in your RV. .

Hank85713 wrote:
1st I think you would want one with remote start capability such as one of the champion ones. 2d you would need to fabricate a mount for it on the rear of the coach. I mounted a 3K champion on the rear of my TT, never used it so far, but was fairly simple. As to exhaust you can rig a pipe to carry it away from the rv. Might use a flex pipe or something similar, remember that is all the built ins have and they usually exit either behind the driver door or just under the genset itself. fuel could be used as in a built in, just again have to fab a line and a small pump with a valve to keep from over filling. I did mine after seeing a fellow in mississippi going down the road with his on and then pulling into a rest stop and he had the ac going so the unit would be cool when he stopped. he ran and I plan to run the power cord back to the set and plug it in. But even an onboard gas tank with the gen set should last 8-10 hrs unless loaded hard. There are some 7Ks with remote start at cosco and some at CW I think. I got mine direct from champion when they offered a special on the remote start ones.

I don't know what rigs you have looked at that uses flex pipe from the factory but none of my 6 class C or class A (all new) have had flex pipe. They were solid pipes from the generator to the pipe outside the rig with a few bends along the way. I have never seen flex pipe used on a new rig.

Thank you. I'll check out that link.