Changed Fuel Filter – Drain Won’t Stop
This is turning out to be a difficult day for simple tasks (simple the last time I did them). I now have a fuel canister that won’t stop draining. I replaced the paper filter cartridge. Very simp...
Forum Discussion
Problem solved. In case anyone hits this thread searching a similar problem, here’s what I learned:
1) Why use drain lever?: My complications occurred because I used the drain lever to evacuate fuel before changing the paper filter cartridge (per the Cummins manual instructions). Four different mechanics told me the same thing; they never bother to drain the fuel. They just plop in the new cartridge and o-ring. They said to not worry about the few ounces of fuel in the canister. I’m not an expert, not making a recommendation for anyone else, but I know what I’m doing the next time.
2) Replacing drain valve: The filter drain levers do go bad (if you chose to use them), but are an easy fix. I did have to remove the banjo bolts on the incoming and outgoing filter lines, and completely remove the filter canister (for easy access to the 4 little torx bolts holding the drain lever assembly). But still an easy fix.
3) Self Priming Usually Works: My ISB has a self priming fuel system and the instructions in the manual for priming have worked in the past (I’ve not pre-filled the fuel filters in the past). However this time, when I completely removed the canister, too much air was in the lines and I had to vent them.
4) Vent Fuel Lines: To vent the lines, the manual says to “loosen the banjo fitting on the fuel pump inlet”. Took me a while to find it. I tracked the fuel line from the canister to a box buried behind several other components, and saw that I could get a 17mm wrench on the bolt through the banjo fitting. Luckily, all I needed to do was loosen it 1/2 turn (it would have been complicated to take the bolt completely out). Then, I had a helper turn the ignition key just enough to bump the starter. At this point the fuel system was active for ~25 seconds. Fuel started seeping out the loose banjo bolt. After several seconds of good flow, I tightened it.
5) Alternate Venting Technique: One of the mechanics told me to loosen 2 or 3 of the injectors where they go into the cylinder head (instead of at the intake to the fuel pump), then vent with the same procedure. The injectors would have been easy to get to, but I was concerned about not being able to torque them properly. I figured the fuel pump banjo bolt technique was less risky, even if it was more difficult to get to.
6) All OK: Air is now out of the lines, engine started. Took it on 20 minute drive, all OK.
Again, just sharing what worked for me (a non-mechanic).
1) Why use drain lever?: My complications occurred because I used the drain lever to evacuate fuel before changing the paper filter cartridge (per the Cummins manual instructions). Four different mechanics told me the same thing; they never bother to drain the fuel. They just plop in the new cartridge and o-ring. They said to not worry about the few ounces of fuel in the canister. I’m not an expert, not making a recommendation for anyone else, but I know what I’m doing the next time.
2) Replacing drain valve: The filter drain levers do go bad (if you chose to use them), but are an easy fix. I did have to remove the banjo bolts on the incoming and outgoing filter lines, and completely remove the filter canister (for easy access to the 4 little torx bolts holding the drain lever assembly). But still an easy fix.
3) Self Priming Usually Works: My ISB has a self priming fuel system and the instructions in the manual for priming have worked in the past (I’ve not pre-filled the fuel filters in the past). However this time, when I completely removed the canister, too much air was in the lines and I had to vent them.
4) Vent Fuel Lines: To vent the lines, the manual says to “loosen the banjo fitting on the fuel pump inlet”. Took me a while to find it. I tracked the fuel line from the canister to a box buried behind several other components, and saw that I could get a 17mm wrench on the bolt through the banjo fitting. Luckily, all I needed to do was loosen it 1/2 turn (it would have been complicated to take the bolt completely out). Then, I had a helper turn the ignition key just enough to bump the starter. At this point the fuel system was active for ~25 seconds. Fuel started seeping out the loose banjo bolt. After several seconds of good flow, I tightened it.
5) Alternate Venting Technique: One of the mechanics told me to loosen 2 or 3 of the injectors where they go into the cylinder head (instead of at the intake to the fuel pump), then vent with the same procedure. The injectors would have been easy to get to, but I was concerned about not being able to torque them properly. I figured the fuel pump banjo bolt technique was less risky, even if it was more difficult to get to.
6) All OK: Air is now out of the lines, engine started. Took it on 20 minute drive, all OK.
Again, just sharing what worked for me (a non-mechanic).
