Changing shocks on Ford E450 Chasis
Anyone change out their stock shocks? Is it do-able in driveway, with hand tools? After 26k miles and while driving home..I think I am gonna be in need of VERY soon!
Forum Discussion
Wrench sizes depend on the Chassis Year. I installed 2012 shocks in our 2002 chassis. Removing the old shocks:
The top wrench is 17mm and the bottom is 19mm or 3/4"
But the new shocks called for around 21mm or 13/16" top and bottom. The mounting washers and bushings were also different:
The 2012 shock and its bushings are on top and the 2002 with bushings is on the bottom. The bushing for the 2002 was (what I'll call) pressed into the frame. You can see where it was cut in half. I stuck it back in for the picture. Also, the top of the 2002 shock is short because it broke off coming apart. Both sides actually broke. I did what I could with spray etc. but the nut galled in place and the stem broke. I did passenger side first and wasn't expecting it to break. When it let go, I heard the 17mm wrench and the washer/nut combo rattle down into the frame and never found either. On driver side, I was batter prepared.
Like HomeSkillet says, a ratcheting box-end wrench would be great for the top nuts. Then you could just put an open end wrench on the bottom nut and seesaw back and forth to loosen, flip the ratchet wrench over to tighten. I did ours with the springs out. That gave me plenty of throw on the bottom nut. There isn't much with the spring in place.
The top wrench is 17mm and the bottom is 19mm or 3/4"
But the new shocks called for around 21mm or 13/16" top and bottom. The mounting washers and bushings were also different:
The 2012 shock and its bushings are on top and the 2002 with bushings is on the bottom. The bushing for the 2002 was (what I'll call) pressed into the frame. You can see where it was cut in half. I stuck it back in for the picture. Also, the top of the 2002 shock is short because it broke off coming apart. Both sides actually broke. I did what I could with spray etc. but the nut galled in place and the stem broke. I did passenger side first and wasn't expecting it to break. When it let go, I heard the 17mm wrench and the washer/nut combo rattle down into the frame and never found either. On driver side, I was batter prepared.
Like HomeSkillet says, a ratcheting box-end wrench would be great for the top nuts. Then you could just put an open end wrench on the bottom nut and seesaw back and forth to loosen, flip the ratchet wrench over to tighten. I did ours with the springs out. That gave me plenty of throw on the bottom nut. There isn't much with the spring in place.
