Changing tire on new 2017 class c
I just purchased a new class C on Ford chassis. I'm taking it on a 6k mile trip and want to carry a jack and any tools needed to change tire. I for the life of me, can't find the right tool to remove ...
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THIS is the Jack you Need!
and HERE is the URL for it. It's nearly twice the price of the very cheapest 12T jacks because it's Two Stage. That means you can fit it under the axle when the tire is FLAT and still get enough Lift to install an inflated tire.
Lug nut size is only 7/8" and Torque is 140-ft-lb. A Socket and Breaker Bar in 1/2" drive "will" work but 3/4" drive is of course better. You need an Extension, probably 6", to get to the rear wheel nuts. I have a 1/2" electric impact wrench and enough extension cord to work from the onboard generator, but that's overkill to the point I've always used hand tools on the wheel nuts. I've heard that garden variety (they're even Green!) RYOBI One+ Impact (it's 1/2" drive) will handle the Ford lug nuts. A "Cross" (aka Four Way) Lug Wrench works just fine, IF it's the "Truck" one. Amazon has bunches of them, just look for 7/8" as probably the smallest hex size, and the arms 22" or so long.
I also carry a small Jack Stand, and some blocks to support Jack and Stand on soft surfaces.
We really need to know about your Wheel Covers, Wheel Simulators, or whatever they are. We have the DICOR brand, and when new, they come with a little socket tool. Look carefully at the simulated "Nuts" on your covers. With DICOR, two of the eight have a little dimple stamped into two of the hex surfaces. That's to hold the steel nut inside, that holds the simulator to two studs on each wheel. I think it's 1-1/8".
A couple tips based on hard luck on my part and others:
1. Use the Black Impact Sockets with any Impact Wrench! Yes, they're stronger, but it's also that if a socket splits, Chrome Slivers are more likely to cut you than Black Chips. Many places including Harbor Fright sell 1/2" drive, deep, impact sockets individually.
2. Custom Valves like these Dually Valves will greatly reduce the chances of having a flat. Rubber Valves, Screw-On Adapters, Braided Extenders, ALL can lead to loss of air. There's another brand beside Dually Valves (also called BORG) and both are good. I have BORG and they're available now at Camping World.
and HERE is the URL for it. It's nearly twice the price of the very cheapest 12T jacks because it's Two Stage. That means you can fit it under the axle when the tire is FLAT and still get enough Lift to install an inflated tire.
Lug nut size is only 7/8" and Torque is 140-ft-lb. A Socket and Breaker Bar in 1/2" drive "will" work but 3/4" drive is of course better. You need an Extension, probably 6", to get to the rear wheel nuts. I have a 1/2" electric impact wrench and enough extension cord to work from the onboard generator, but that's overkill to the point I've always used hand tools on the wheel nuts. I've heard that garden variety (they're even Green!) RYOBI One+ Impact (it's 1/2" drive) will handle the Ford lug nuts. A "Cross" (aka Four Way) Lug Wrench works just fine, IF it's the "Truck" one. Amazon has bunches of them, just look for 7/8" as probably the smallest hex size, and the arms 22" or so long.
I also carry a small Jack Stand, and some blocks to support Jack and Stand on soft surfaces.
We really need to know about your Wheel Covers, Wheel Simulators, or whatever they are. We have the DICOR brand, and when new, they come with a little socket tool. Look carefully at the simulated "Nuts" on your covers. With DICOR, two of the eight have a little dimple stamped into two of the hex surfaces. That's to hold the steel nut inside, that holds the simulator to two studs on each wheel. I think it's 1-1/8".
A couple tips based on hard luck on my part and others:
1. Use the Black Impact Sockets with any Impact Wrench! Yes, they're stronger, but it's also that if a socket splits, Chrome Slivers are more likely to cut you than Black Chips. Many places including Harbor Fright sell 1/2" drive, deep, impact sockets individually.
2. Custom Valves like these Dually Valves will greatly reduce the chances of having a flat. Rubber Valves, Screw-On Adapters, Braided Extenders, ALL can lead to loss of air. There's another brand beside Dually Valves (also called BORG) and both are good. I have BORG and they're available now at Camping World.
