Cleaning the Class A while using it?

I only do it when I'm staying at a CG for a week or more. The office is more likely to let you when you're a long term guest.

Have always gotten the OK for the windshield whether I'm there for 1 night or weeks.

Like others, I can do my entire rig with just 4 gallons or so in a bucket and a quick rinse right after doing a section. Standing there wetting it down for several minutes isn't very neighborly in the western states with the drought going on, so I avoid doing that.

Busskipper wrote:
Remember we are cleaning a "HOUSE" not a Classic Car.

May not be for everyone but has worked well for me for the last 15 + years.

,

Actually, you're not washing a house, a house is completely different materials. A RV is more expensive then most classic cars , but the paint is the same (if you have full body paint), it should be treated the same when it comes to washing. That's the step where you do the most damage.

You have limited amount of clear coat on the paint and it should be treated correctly. It's not hard to wash the RV/ cars correctly. But most people don't know how to wash automotive paint correctly.

There is no shortage of RVs out there that look like hell from being improperly cared for, having peeling clear coat and are just a rolling swirl mark.

Many people don't care what it looks like for the most part, same for their cars. So do what you want. But that certainly comes into play when you're selling.

California duster = cringe...

MagillaGorilla wrote:
How do RV users keep them clean when using them? Most campgrounds don't allow you to clean them while camping. Inevitably we will end up driving in the rain thus getting them filthy.

So how do you keep them clean when in use?



Not looking to hear how you clean it when you get home. We all know how to do that.

Most of the time I use the Bucket method - wax soap, mixed in bucket - spray detailer - and 4-5 clean Microfiber cloths - along with a window tool with extension handle - Get a micro cloth ring it out - place over the window washer, up down - flip rinse ------usually I can get about 1/4 of the coach at a time. Once it's clean - the California Duster works well after pulling in, to get most of the dust off, both the Coach and the Toad.

This method also works well after it rains - the spray detailer help at "lifting" the grim if not to heavy. Remember we are cleaning a "HOUSE" not a Classic Car.

May not be for everyone but has worked well for me for the last 15 + years.

JMHO,

Blackdiamond wrote:

JumboJet wrote:
Waterless Washing

I haven't tried this costly product yet, but have been reading up on it.

I actually was able to wash my RV at a city owned RV park in Washington State and the park attendants loaned me the bucket and brush.

I have used this for a couple years, works great.

Waterless washing is only good for very light cleaning, like a light dusting. Use it for anything else and you're scratching it. I'd never use it.

Dirt particles need to be floated off and even then you have to remove particles from your wash mitt frequently. If you don't you're adding tons of swirl marks. In the link provided spraying the solution on the mitt does NOTHING for preventing swirling or encapsulating dirt, it has to be sprayed directly on DUST to encapsulate. Never good for anything more then dust.

Bill.Satellite wrote:

gemert wrote:
One of you mentioned truck washes. I've been told that their chemicals are too strong for RVs? True, myth? Whats the real deal? Thanks

MYTH!

For those who think the coin operated car washes or truck washes are fine, well they are if you want to remove all the wax protection you have on you RV as they use harsh chemicals that strip off everything. The cleaning solutions are just too harsh for waxes and sealants. You need a PH balanced washing soap to keep your wax and sealants. PH balances soaps tend to be more expensive. Mequiars gold is the cheapest PH balanced soap you can get.

I use the old 2 bucket method. I have a wash mitt on Shur Line extendable pole( going to be switching to a Montana Boar hair brush soon) . First Rinse the sides and wash off any large particles, then hit the coach with a Gilmore Foam master and let the foam lubricate and wash particles down the side. Then it's wash with the mitt and extendable pole. On the road I can do the whole coach in about 30 minutes after set up. .

We can usually end up at a campground at some point that allows a wash or has a specified wash area.. Other then that I don't want to put swirls marks all over.

Blackdiamond wrote:

JumboJet wrote:
Waterless Washing

I haven't tried this costly product yet, but have been reading up on it.

I actually was able to wash my RV at a city owned RV park in Washington State and the park attendants loaned me the bucket and brush.

I have used this for a couple years, works great.

Just started also. Great stuff.

I usually wash the bugs off the front quickly, every time I ask the office, they say ok to just wash the bugs off......
I wait to do a full wash at my destination.

I soap mine up when it's raining and let Mother Nature rinse it off....:)...Dennis

I do ours with about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon pail. I oz of vinegar or less. Use a painter expandable pole with a squeegee on the end and the foam sponge pad on the other side of the squeegee. Dip the pole scrub with the water and sgueegee water off right away. No water spots and a clean RV. Been doing it for years at campgrounds and in storage.

I shake the sgueegee after every pass to get the dirty water off before dipping back into the bucket. Water stays clean this way.

Usually there is a gallon left over when done to do the wheels.

I've never sprayed with a hose, except Blue Beacon one time.

One damp towel, one dry towel....just do the lower portions as that is where the road dust adhers.

Quick, easy, no accessories required!

gemert wrote:
One of you mentioned truck washes. I've been told that their chemicals are too strong for RVs? True, myth? Whats the real deal? Thanks

MYTH!