Forum Discussion

PursuitInsight's avatar
Aug 13, 2017

cruise control intermittent than off along with horn

hi,

my cruise control became intermittent than stopped triggering along with the horn

result was the flat connector partially disconnecting on street bumps and eventually, fully disconnecting resullting in the horn no longer working

issue origin
L shaped braket holding the servo vibrating on bumps allowing the connector to loosen up by hitting the firewall above

effect
intermittent cruise
disconnect on bumps
eventually, totally disconnected

result
the cruise is off
the horn switch needs a ground to trigger, given by the cruise servo
the horn is off

solution
push the connector back in
install tyeraps on both sides of the flat connector, around the servo

i hope the tyeraps will not wear down and break

Yves

P.S. my 2003 Monaco Lapalma DBD 36 feet has an October 2002 frame so engine, transmission and cruise are 2002 F53 Ford v10
  • With all due respect, all this means zero to anyone reading it without the make and model of RV, truck, car, or covered wagon you are referring to. Please edit with that info.. tnx
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    With all due respect, it's in the Class A section and it made perfect sense to me reguardless of it being a DP or a gas rig. One click shows he has a 2003 Monaco Lapalma.

    P....sight, Thanks for posting your solution.
  • one should NOT have to "click" to get vital/important information.
    bumpy
  • Back in 2003-2005, Monaco had a few issues with welds on the W series chassis. I believe that your coach is on the W22 chassis and you need to crawl under the coach and check out the welds.
    This is NOT something that can be seen by bending over and looking under the coach. You have to crawl under and look up in front of the front wheels to check the steel and the welds that are used to hold the front cap on to the frame.
    There have been numerous reports of broken steel and ot failed welds which will cause the front end to become loose and kick off your cruise control on minor bumps. Some also experience windshield wiper problems, more rattles, and an overall looseness with the dash. This can also result in numerous electrical issues with loose connections, etc.
    You also want to check all welds as some have had the brace under the generator crack as well.
    The fix is NOT to just redo the welds. You have to add additional heavier steel, welded in place to replace the very light gauge steel box that was used by the factory.
    This is not a difficult repair and unless you do it yourself you can expect about a $1000-$1500 charge to have a welding shop fix things.
  • Hi,

    I added the model and make. thanks.



    For the welds, I remembered reading a recall stating that it was the back and i check yearly.

    I never checked the front. what you wrote would make sense. I have no rattle, noise or vibrations. it is a smooth ride.
    But i will check this out
    i guess that going up on a 8x8 piece of wood one side at a time would twist the frame enough to reveal any issue
    i will do this

    addition I just saw that w22 is for workhorse and that is a GM problem and not Ford. Ford would be OK

    but i will still chcmy rv
  • PursuitInsight wrote:
    Hi,

    I added the model and make. thanks.



    For the welds, I remembered reading a recall stating that it was the back and i check yearly.

    I never checked the front. what you wrote would make sense. I have no rattle, noise or vibrations. it is a smooth ride.
    But i will check this out
    i guess that going up on a 8x8 piece of wood one side at a time would twist the frame enough to reveal any issue
    i will do this

    addition I just saw that w22 is for workhorse and that is a GM problem and not Ford. Ford would be OK

    but i will still chcmy rv


    With the chassis weld problems, it was the extra steel added to attach the front end of the chassis to the front cap. This was a problem on BOTH the WH and Ford chassis since this was done at the Monaco factory, and not on the chassis supplied by others.
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Bumpyroad wrote:
    one should NOT have to "click" to get vital/important information.
    bumpy

    I did not "click" or need to know what rig until JCF brought it up.
  • Ivylog wrote:
    Bumpyroad wrote:
    one should NOT have to "click" to get vital/important information.
    bumpy

    I did not "click" or need to know what rig until JCF brought it up.


    hey, you are the one that first mentioned "clicks".
    bumpy