Curtain up across coach cabin

More to add: If space makes it inconvenient to install a curtain rod holder,(such was the problem I had on the passenger side), I used a large "cup hook" that was approximately the right size and screwed it into the side of a cabinet right next to the sidewall. It works just fine! The curtain we use is too heavy to use a spring loaded rod.

DutchmenSport wrote:
If your looking for an easy way to hang a curtain, just pick up a long spring loaded shower curtain rod. Adjust it for what ever width you need, let the spring pressure hold it in place, and then hang anything you want on it. It's 100% portable and if you reach your destination and don't want to deal with an annoying curtain in your way, just fold up the curtain and put the rod away. We've done this in one fashion or another in every camper we've had to make extra changing rooms, and to section off part of the camper. If you lived closer, I could probably give you a rod. I've got about 6 of them now and currently not using any.

That what we did ... spring loaded rod and hung a shower curtain... the plastic kept the air from circulating into the back. When we were down with our daily drive, just drop the rod and stash it behind the sofa, then in the a.m , up it goes again for the road drive.

To add to our previous reply: A 1/2" copper water line pipe is strong enough to support the curtains and can be purchased at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Our curtains were purchased at department store and are thick enough (but not too heavy) to block light and they are split in the center. That way half the curtain slides to one side, the other half to the other side (behind the front chairs) when not in use. For privacy at night the curtains are held closed by three small clamps, like what we use to re-close a potato chip bag. Again, one of the things we like the most is not having to mess with the windshield curtains, and they also stay cleaner. Not a lot of effort to make this unit and it is so nice for several reasons. Glad we could help!

wa8yxm wrote:
The engine compressor runs all the time too, but the engine is already running so the overhead is now reduced to zero, and what's more the efficiency between engine and A/C compressor is 100%

That's not true. The compressor uses a clutch so if you are not using the Dash AC, you don't have the loss from the drag of running the compressor. The question is whether the amount of drag on the engine when using dash air requires more fual to compensate for than does the generator to run the roof air. My gut feeling is that it does not but you never know.

Effy wrote:
This debate is always about money, but how much do you actually save? The dash air compressor pulls pretty hard on the motor which kills MPG. The genset which is far more efficient at producing power uses gas.

I hear this all the time, I do not believe it at all, The Generator is running and sucking fuel all the time, A good portion of that fuel is "Overhead" not being used to power anything, Even if the A/C is ideling the Generator is still cranking away.. Plus the generator is at most 90% (I think it's 80-85 but it's been a long time since I studied) and the motors in the roof A/C are in about the same effiency range.

The engine compressor runs all the time too, but the engine is already running so the overhead is now reduced to zero, and what's more the efficiency between engine and A/C compressor is 100%

Finally, the House A/C is not that effective in the cockpit greenhouse (Trust me I know, have driven in full sun with a defective dash unit) but the dash unit is where you need it.

So, The idea of a curtain to close off the "House" from the cockpit, when driving, is going to be the most efficient. option.

What would be MORE efficient would be if they designed factory air like after market air (Older cars had that options) On those cars there was a thermostat that would turn OFF the compressor when the intake air was cool enough,, And turn it back on when things warmed up.

Factory blends hot and cold air to do control temp.. NOT the way I'd do it if I were designing the job.

Effy wrote:
This debate is always about money, but how much do you actually save? The dash air compressor pulls pretty hard on the motor which kills MPG. The genset which is far more efficient at producing power uses gas. So which is more efficient/cost effective? .

That is an excellent question. In some setups, it may very well be a wash, in which case, I would go for the genny any day. In a DP or even UFO, there is probably even more of an argument to use the Genny and roof air.

Somehow, I am able to keep comfortable enough in our old beast with just the dash air even in 90+ degree heat but I wear comfortable gym shorts and a T-shirt when its "driving day" and live in FL. The tacky indoor outdoor mercury thermostat that the PO installed said 94 degrees outside and 77 degrees inside a little behind the passenger seat. That was at about 3pm and the worst it got. Until around 2pm, it was holding pretty well around 74 degrees. The kids riding in back didn't complain and they do that at the drop of a hat. I'm not sure why I wrote all of that since my comfort level has nothing to do with others BUT I do recommend dressing to be comfortable for the drive.

A second benefit is cold weather traveling (Especially in a DP). I don't travel in the cold but if I did and there were only 2 of us, I definitely would rather use the dash heat than burn through propane. I remember LP used to be pretty darn affordable. That's not even that long ago.

Ours came with that track on the ceiling. I put a black curtain on it so it hides the light from the back. This is useful both for stealth camping and traveling with people that want to pay cards at the dinette when we are traveling after dark.

Matt

Norm & Deb wrote:
This was one of the best things I have done to our coach in the last 12 years.

I mounted a 1/2 copper water pipe (looks nice and shiny) to curtain rod holders mounted on the drivers side and passenger side of the coach, just behind the front seats. Purchased nice looking medium weight curtains and had them hemmed to the correct length.

When this curtain is closed the dash air will keep us cool, but more importantly, in the winter the dash heat will keep us warm. This saves LOTS of LP. Why heat or cool the back of the coach when its just two of us going down the road?

Also it is very convenient when we stop for the night to just shut down the engine, pull the curtain closed, and we are set for the evening. Don't have to mess with the windshield curtain at all!

Hope this helps............it works for us.

Thanks so much Deb, we had the grandkids along last summer for our trip to PEI and used the coach air quite a bit for comfort....since my wife and I are all that's going to take the I-40 from Virginia to California this summer we figured to install the curtain....

This was one of the best things I have done to our coach in the last 12 years.

I mounted a 1/2 copper water pipe (looks nice and shiny) to curtain rod holders mounted on the drivers side and passenger side of the coach, just behind the front seats. Purchased nice looking medium weight curtains and had them hemmed to the correct length.

When this curtain is closed the dash air will keep us cool, but more importantly, in the winter the dash heat will keep us warm. This saves LOTS of LP. Why heat or cool the back of the coach when its just two of us going down the road?

Also it is very convenient when we stop for the night to just shut down the engine, pull the curtain closed, and we are set for the evening. Don't have to mess with the windshield curtain at all!

Hope this helps............it works for us.

If it gets up into the 80's the generator/A.C. is turned on. We're born and bred northern people who normally live in cooler summer temps. :B Plus I like my comforts.