Forum Discussion

JimM68's avatar
JimM68
Explorer
Aug 13, 2015

Dometic Z-Door (ndr-1402) cooling issues

Our 08 Monaco has one of those z door refrigerators. Up until this year, it has always worked great.

I need to do more troubleshooting, with the delay in these things cooling sometimes it is hard to tell, but it appears:

It doesn't cool when we are moving.
It also doesn't work well when we are parking (24-36 hours plus...) on an asphalt parking lot.

It doesn't seem to matter gas or electric, if we are on the road, or parked in the lot behind my office, it gets warm.

When we got to this campground yesterday afternoon, the freezer was at 13 degrees, fridge at 43!

By the time we woke up this morning, the freezer was down to 5, fridge 39.

And now, freezer at 0, fridge at 33. 86 degrees today, bright sun, no shade awnings open. on grass.

On the road it makes no difference, warms up with genny on or not.
No error codes ever.
I've run the diagnostics, everything passes.
Defrost heaters work.
Lights work. Factory inside fans run with doors closed, stop when open.
Door gasket heaters work. Gaskets at least appear to be good, and hold a dollar bill, tho I wish a bit tighter.

Fridge is in a slide.
Monaco seems to have done a good job of it. The top of the fridge and above the top vent is insulated and sealed. The sides are well insulated, visible from behind. The back has a large baffle between the outside wall and the coils, to force the air past the coils.
There are a pair of fans installed behind, controlled by a thermister on the upper coil. I used to hear it cycle on and off. Haven't for a while, replaced it with a switch, running the fans continuous, no change...

What have I missed?
What else is there?
Is there anything inside the chimney that would effect both gas and electric?
Could the baffle have moved or fallen?
How do I access it?

Is there any maintenance / cleaning that might help?

10 Replies

  • Thanks Doug.

    I do not know if the cooling unit has ever been replaced as I am not the first owner. I doubt it as the coach was only 2 years old when I bought it.

    Bummer about the drain tubes being so hard to access. It would be nice if I could just pull the drain out the front, but there is no way the clamp would fit thru the hole.

    I did it once in a 1200 series, but there was a lot more clearance behind the fridge.
  • Drain tubes--you have to pull the refer to replace them, except for the freezer, which is already at the bottom rear. I asked if the cooling unit had ever been replaced. When a cooling unit is replaced, IF the cooling unit is NOT sealed to the box correctly, the result is lack of cooling and loss of cooling in transit. I would also bypass the rear cooling fan tstat and run the rear cooling fans non stop to see if that stops the problem. Might be lack of flow of air from the bottom up the outer side door. Do you have any type bug screens on the lower and upper side doors? Doug

    Last, IF you never OPEN the interior doors in transit and the temps rise, that points to the refer PULLING in outside air. A CLOSED refer, even if NOT on, will not have a fast rise in temps as long as the doors are not opened. I bet you have a partially blocked cooling unit, which when you are in the temps you are in, is the symptom of a partially blocked cooling unit.
  • I had the same model as you in a 2008 Fleetwood and identical problems as you are having. After 4 years of fighting all of the issues, I gave up and installed a residential. Best move I ever made. I sold the old one on Ebay and paid for most of the cost of the new one.

    Good luck!
  • Well, never mind the drain tubes. Stuffed a paper towel in it for 2 days, first day still had same problem while travelling, temp went as high as 12 / 43 !

    Second day travelling, it stayed called, temp on arrival today way 02 / 33!

    Difference?
    Days high temp was 73.
    Previous high temps over past several months were consistently mid 80's to mid 90's

    So, I have a z-door Dometic side by side that cools poorly when traveling if it is hot outside.

    Any ideas?

    Also I do still need to replace thos drain tubes, anyone do this?
    How in the world can I get in there?
  • Drain tubes?

    HMMMM says Jim as big lightbulbs go off.

    I have some draintube issues. Why do they use that cheasy white corrugated stuff that gets old and brittle and breaks off?

    A couple years ago, that cheesy white tube broke off. Here's what is left.

    Any suggestions oh how and with what to replace it?
    The thing is about halfway between the outside vents, and zero clearance to get an arm in there and work.
    Thinking I'll have to push something out from inside, let it drop down, and work from there?
    I guess in the meantime, I'll plug the hole inside the fridge whenever we move.

    Edit: 8-16: we'll be rolling again today, I'll stuff a bit of rag in the hole, see if that makes a difference.

    Fellow camper here showed my the samsung in his '07 Endeaver, same exact floor plan as my Knight. Nice.
  • back to 02 / 34 this morning.

    I've forced it to gas, see what happens, though we will be hitting the road again in a few hours.
  • JimM68 wrote:
    Road day today, covered a whole 140 miles in 4 hours with 1 short and 1 long stop.
    2 and 33 degrees when we unplugged at 11am (fridge switched to gas) and hit the road.
    6 and 43 when we parked and plugged back in at 3 (fridge switched back to electric).
    Again, I removed the lower vent cover and waited. Now at 9, it is 6 and 37.

    I'll check the heaters
    And I need to find a couplle days sitting still, switch to gas, and see if it cools.

    It sure does semm my problem is related to moving...


    If related to moving, then the 2 drain tubes are probably the reason. BLOCK them OFF next time you travel and see if the refer maintains its temp. Has the Cooling unit ever been replaced? Doug
  • Road day today, covered a whole 140 miles in 4 hours with 1 short and 1 long stop.
    2 and 33 degrees when we unplugged at 11am (fridge switched to gas) and hit the road.
    6 and 43 when we parked and plugged back in at 3 (fridge switched back to electric).
    Again, I removed the lower vent cover and waited. Now at 9, it is 6 and 37.

    I'll check the heaters
    And I need to find a couplle days sitting still, switch to gas, and see if it cools.

    It sure does semm my problem is related to moving...
  • The baffle only affects the LP flame operation. Is it possible 1 of the 2 heating elements is inop? That would not throw a code on a Dometic. In the bottom of the inside back wall of the freezer is a plastic plug for draining water. IS that plug installed. Or on your model is the drain tube connected that would drain the water out the bottom of the floor? Same with the refer side drain tube. If no faults or codes, then at this point I would wire the 120 elements direct for 24 hours and run the backside cooling fans constant(which I think you stated you have already done). If the refer maintained the 33 degrees and 0 degrees, then the cooling unit is OK. IF NOT, then I would suspect a partially block cooling unit. Dometics do not have off level cooling unit protection like a Norcold. Your symptoms point to a partially blocked Cooling unit. Doug
  • I think I have the same model....I mounted a fan behind the upper louvers....then I have a switch I use to turn on the two fans mounted on the bottom...so it blows the air up and and the other fan behind the louvers moves it out...this seems to help it.