Experience Swapping Battery Control Center Board?

I am wondering if you ever solved your problem? I have an identical situation, have to run down a new board. The voltage sensing circuit components residing at the bottom of the board are fried, and even though the diagram shows a fuse for the circuit (F 22) for my version CB-115 ver E, I have no fuse or even sockets for it.

Larry

tomousecap wrote:
Have you carefully checked the Jump Start switch for stuck on or arced together contacts?

I did that before the board swap. I disconnected the jumpstart switch at the time.

Good though on point though, I need to identify which wire goes directly from teh jump switch and where it comes into the board and disconnect it there. I have a feeling it is in one of the large connectors though.

At this time, the temp solution is to disconnect the twin molex that goes to the jump solenoid when I get to somewhere I am boondocking.

I will have to mess with it more this weekend once the rain passes.

Steve

OPPS ...

Someone sent me a private email ref the BCC and I inadvertently lost it ... my apologies!

If you would please resend I will reply.

Howard
hrawley at yahoo dot com

Have you carefully checked the Jump Start switch for stuck on or arced together contacts?

So I finally made the time to swap the board the Wednesday before Thanksgiving. Good news is the swap itself is not bad. Bad news is the board swap didn't solve the problem.

The hardest part about the swap is getting removing and reinstalling a blind ground screw that is behind the board that screws into the inside of the metal control center case. The only other glitch was that the crimp connector came off of one wire, so I exteneded and replaced that wire/crimp as well as a sister one to that wire. Not a big deal, just one of those things that happends when R&Ring a part like this.

So the symptoms are the same. When the aux cut switches are on, the battery jump solinoid is always energized, so when boondocking not only do all of the batteries discharge together, they discharge faster since the solenoid itself is drawing substantial current.

I have the service manual actual manual for the contol center and in troubleshooting it displays this problem, and the solution is to replace the board. Nothing further. I guess I will try to give their tech a call tomorrow to see where to turn next.

If anyone want to see pictures of the system, I did take some for reference when replacing the board

Steve

Thanks for 2manytoyz for the write up too, I just clicked through to that. Before I replaced it with the Big Boy, my factory 200A solenoid was working but was buzzing like crazy at all hours on and off shore. I could wack the case and it would stop, but eventually come back. I never tore it down and it is still on my desk. It is much smaller then the Big Boy physically. The part number cross references primarily to an aviation part and they were all over $200, thus the Big Boy.

Thank for all of the input. Now I am trying to wrap my head around my memory since it has been a while since I first diagnosed it. I have the trouble shooting guide from RV Custom, so that is good.

My board problem was partiall that it would not -disconnect- the emergency jump solinoid. That would cause a drain on the system when on batteries due to the power going to the solenoid, then at the same time it would kill both my house and coach batteries because they were all draining at once. That resulting is some -really- bad mornings camping after a long night.... Since I diagnosed this, I began connecting the wire that activates the solenoid when driving, but would disconnect it from the board when we got camping so that it all didn't drain.

For some reason I was/am thinking there was another solenoid behind the control panel, but I may be mistaken. I think my two battery disconnect solinoids are at the front of the coach.

Agree 100% on taking photos. I have plenty of wiring experience, but that is always a good plan (before digitial cameras I had to draw plenty of pictures...)

Disconnecting the shore power is a given. The one I forgot last time was the solar panel. That will wake you up too if you don't disconnect and isolate it.

I may tackle this this weekend. Thanks for all of the input.

Steve

Second the notes on disconnecting all power ... batteries, external power, and while a small voltage, don't forget the solar panel on the roof if you have one.

Also strongly suggest you label all the wires in the BCC before you disconnect them and x2 on pictures.

m4 wrote:
It is time...

The failure is that the coach would not switch automatically between house and coach batteries to recharge, and to prevent discharge. Also the battery cutover switch would not activate the solenoid. Diagnosis was the board.
Steve

Did you check for voltage at the "cutover" (emerency start) solenoid? It should operate even if the circuit on the board is bad. There are two fuses for the diesel F-17 and F-20 that supply power for the panel "emer/aux start switch"

My experience was with a gas unit (Southwind 35R) and I had failures of both the Aux start solenoid and the circuit on the board.

Be sure if replacing the aux start relay that you use a continuous duty solenoid. It is my understanding they are mounted outside the BCC box on the diesel, gas they are inside the BCC, behind the board.

I don't see a way to attach a file ... I have a Trouble Shooting Guide ... I guess drop me a note at hrawley at yahoo dot com and I can send it to you.

Howard

Howard

Not overly complicated but take pictures first. Lots of pictures. I had to replace a disconnect solenoid that was behind the board which I had to remove to get access. Just disconnect both the chassis and coach batteries before you do anything. Also unplug shore power so you have a totally dead (electrically) coach.