Experience With Radiator Replacement

Fire Up - how did you inpect the radiator with a camera?

I had the dip stick recalibrated so it will not be overfilled again. I also give explicit written instructions about how much oil to use and what markings on the dip stick to use to the shop that does the oil change. Since that, I have had no issues with oil blowback.

A new radiator was ordered before the work was done. I decided to just replace it while it was pulled out because of the age.

No, I do not live down a dirt road and I rarely drive off payment. Somethimes the roads are gravelled. I really have no idea how all those grasses got in there. Maybe the people I bought it from got those in there.

I was thinking yesterday about folks that purchase coaches of my era that have no idea about these issues. I had no idea.

All of this being said, I really love my coach which is why I am willing to ut this money into it to keep it going a long time. Newmar did a good job with it and we plan to keep traveling in it for many years to come.

nccrowley,
What you found out is what I've been telling folks for years. And that is, attempting to clean the radiator and CAC on SOME of these coaches IS almost a waste of time, if they're left in the coach. You see, as you've found out, the conditions at which those two units live in, are tough. The dynamics of how things are lodged into the fins of both, are such that, attempting to clean them FROM THE SAME DIRECTION, plain just doesn't make sense. All you're doing is forcing the dirt/debris/leaves/animals/plastic bags/oil and more, farther into the fins.

I've pulled the radiator and CAC out of our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, twice now in 7 years. The first time was right after we purchased it, right at 6 years ago. I had a radiator leak and, upon inspection with an inspection camera, I found that the radiator was about 50% clogged and the CAC was almost the same. So, out came both of them. At that time, it took me about 6 hours 'cause I was not speed wrenching at the time. I'm retired and I could care less how long it took me.

Before I decided to toss that radiator, it took me an entire gallon of Zep, citrus based degreaser and three passes with a pressure washer to get it clean. You should have seen the road grime/tar/dirt/oil/bugs/leaves/ and anything else that came out of those fins. On our coach, there is absolutely ZERO possibility of cleaning either of those two units while in the coach.

Some folks have some luck cleaning theirs. On mine, IMPOSSIBLE. So, fast forward a few years and, recently I had to do some major maintenance on the front of that CAT C-7. A fan bearing, belts, new water pump, CAT's "Regulators" (us normal folk call them thermostats) all the hoses, and a few other odds and ends while I was in there. But, that radiator and CAC took me right at 3.5 hours this time. It helped that I was familiar with where all the fasteners were at and how hard it is to get to everything and developed short cuts.

Well, that was 40,000 miles since the first R&R and while my slobber tube has been extended all the way to the rear of the coach and, I always install the correct amount of oil anyways, I still had debris in mine. It's inevitable. I modified my radiator frame so it would allow for maximum amount of air flowing through it. Before I did that, the frame had gussets at each corner that were solid. Not good.

Anyway, as for Winne and Itasca and any other manufacturer not really allowing for easy access for easy cleaning of these items, well, this has been something to deal with for ever in these things. It is what it is.

Anyway, since my radiator, at 40K miles, (the first time I did the operation) was corroded so bad in a lower corner, it was non-repairable. So, out with the Aluminum-plastic and in with the Copper-brass. The cooling of the Copper-brass is pretty much the same as the original radiator. The changing of the regulators brought the temp down just a tad from 194 to 186 on the average, based on outside temps and level cruising or not.

Anyway, yes, it's real tough to try and to a thorough, efficient, accurate and complete job of cleaning while they're in the coach.
Scott

I was lucky that the original owner of my current Cat 3126e knew about these problems from the get go and had the dip stick remarked to 20 qts instead of going by the factory written (next to the fill tube on a metal plate) 22 qts. So when I bought this RV, and since I also knew about the issue, I paid close attention to the front of my car and to how much oil was used. Very little oily residue ever ends up on the front of my car. Now there are several who say that this model Cat uses 19 qts, but that's not always what the factory decides is correct. Which of course causes confusion.

I've tried to be observant and monitored the oil level so I'm pretty sure the 20 qts works fine for this particular setup. I've also been a conservative driver in the mountains like you and haven't had any overheating issues. I've also done the Purple Simple Green treatment, but just once. Sprayed the rad out from the back a few times too.

Now, on to the issues with your rads. They both look fine! Why replace that rad if there's no leak when a good soak and spray out will suffice? Just curious about that.

It also appears that you frequent an area where you're more apt to get a lot of dust and debris on your rad that the rest of us wouldn't. Do you live down a very long unpaved country road? Again, just curious.

Finally, it's not entirely clear...did you reduce the amount of oil used in the crankcase? Both my Fleetwood Cummins and Winnie Cat stop blowing oil at a reduced oil level. Might still need a slobber tube extension though.

Thanks for relating your experience. Knowing what others are doing about this issue is always helpful.

I use a 1/4" copper tube and compressed air to get in between my A/C condenser and radiator, on my gaser. Is it possible you could do the same on you C7?

Richard

With the tube extended and everything clean as new you should be fine for years to come.

Your MH didn't have the tube extended, was over filled (that's bad) and is currently 15 years old - you've actually done pretty well.