Failed B/U Monitor - What to do now?

I bought the Magellan Roadmate 1700 in order to have GPS an extra video cameras to monitor the inside and outside of a trailer pulled behind the motorhome. I also bought a video switcher and installed some manual switches. There is an aux video input on the GPS, (btw, it's about $170 delivered), and it interrupts the GPS screen when it senses any video signal. So, I use switches to select monitoring, but used the reverse light voltage to automatically select rear trailer cam for backing up, then after shifting out of revers, you get the GPS screen back.

I had to use something like the ring and the sleeve of the 1/8" input jack, and was expecting it to be the tip and sleeve. Don't remember exactly, but that unstandard wiring caused some bad reviews of the GPS since normal adapters might not hit the right part of the jack until you find the right one, or just experiment to find which one.

Also, I found that any wires can be used for that level of video resolution by using a 'balun' which will make any pair of wires (twisted pairs from data cables already run in buildings are one of the uses) act like coaxial cable. They're a couple of bucks, one on each end, and you can get a decent signal with anything. I've used romex house cable run hundreds of feet to monitor something, and it worked fine.

Don't give up, there are just so few wires, that you can make this work with a GPS screen, just make sure it has an aux in jack. Then, a separate switcher that can be triggered with voltage, like when the backup light is on, or the turn signal for each respective camera, or just a switch that you control.

Definitely, for me, hardest thing is running wires, so save what you've got, and adapt easy-to-find new stuff to it.

I have probably the exact MH and had the same failure of the backup monitor. Mine was intermittent and I never knew whether it was the camera or monitor.

I replaced it with a RVS-770613, made by Rear View Safety http://www.rearviewsafety.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=My%2BCompany.

I bought it from Costcos for less than $200. It's currently shown for $159 http://www.costco.com/1-Backup-Camera-System-with-7%22-LCD-Screen-by-Rear-View-Safety.product.100128963.html

I had to trace out the conductors within the old cable and then solder spice a connector at each end of the old cable. I also needed to fabricate mounts for the monitor and camera.

The camera fits inside the doghouse cover and the monitor is mounted on a piece of plastic cutting board pated black that fills in the cutout on the dash panel.

I later added 2 side view cameras from ebay for about $20 each.The switcher included with the system supports 4 inputs with audio only from the rear camera.


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If you look at the image closely, you'll see my ladder at the rear bumper


There are three shortcomings with it's operation.
1) No night vision even though the camera has IR IEDs on it. It might only be my installation of the camera inside the doghouse blocking the IR light source?

2) The audio isn't as loud as the origninal

3) adjustments are digital without twist knobs, A little cumbersome when driving.

Big Mac, Just remembered I had the same system on my 98 GT. That large round power/video plug shown in diagram is known for coming loose and/or falling out completely. Mine fell out completely and was laying loose behind the monitor.
Very easy to pull that monitor loose and check. Remove the 4 screws on the black plastic piece on the dash where the monitor is mounted and the whole thing will come out. Re-seat the large round cable. If it is not connected look around below the monitor to see if it has fallen out.

Call RV.cams and get their opinion on your best avenue of approach. They do this for a living!

Thanks for all the inputs. I wish I were as capable as you all seem to be.

Just to add a little info based on the posts so far, I did call and speak to a gentleman at RV Cams. Good guy, interested in my questions and forthcoming with his take on everything. He told me that he was familiar with my B/U Camera system (Navigator Model No. JCS-701/27A), that the company that made it was defunct, that not enough were produced and installed to have anyone interested in repairing them as a business, and that possibly I could find someone locally who might be able to repair it, but most likely I’d end up having to replace the system. For info, (and I hope this works), following is the info on the cable connection for my existing unit:
.

So given the seemingly minimal opportunities to get my original system repaired, I thought I might instead be able to kill two birds with one stone by getting a new B/U camera and cable compatible with my Kenwood video unit and screen (now to be used exclusively as my new B/U Monitor); and then get an upgraded RV friendly GPS system that I could plug into the space where the monitor used to be.

I'll continue to try to find a local repair source for the monitor, but if I can't, I'll punt and just install a new B/U system and keep my existing GPS system.

KJINTF wrote:
Always gives me a good laugh when I hear "Not Repairable" Kind of the reason I have 10 or 15 large flat screen HDTV's here all working just perfectly, typical repair takes me about 30 minutes and less than $5.00 in parts.

Fixed my own flat screens with a few $ in parts as well. Google is a wonderful repair manual/tool.

Just get the model number of your broken device and google it. Many others out there have the same problem and some are nice enough to post replies with pictures. May not work for your RV camera system but I think Wa8yxm has great suggestions. You could probably reuse the old camera and get a cheap LCD screen to replace your old CRT one.

KJINTF wrote:
Always gives me a good laugh when I hear "Not Repairable"

Kind of the reason I have 10 or 15 large flat screen HDTV's here all working just perfectly, typical repair takes me about 30 minutes and less than $5.00 in parts. That monitor is repairable even if it's a CRT type monitor suggest you call local TV and stereo shops most of the time it's FAR less expensive to get them repaired than purchase new.

With skilled Electronic technicians going for like 150/hr in many markets, With one hour minimum billing, anything with a price tag below $300.00 is non-repairable by definition.

Unless, of course, you happen to be said Electronics technician. IN which case the cost of labor = 0/hr.. Why I have stuff that works here too.

That said (Thank you warranty) I just spent most of the afternoon solving a software issue on my new (less than one month old) netbook that is going in my radio room next month.

Was fun out here this AM, waiting for HP to call I dual-computerd, got done in 3 hours what normally takes... A whole lot longer.

wolfe10 wrote:
Contact these guys. The repair as well as sell cameras and monitors.

A good source for "what will connect to my OE wiring"

http://www.rvcams.com/default.htm

X2......... Very knowledgeable and helpful over the phone

Always gives me a good laugh when I hear "Not Repairable"

Kind of the reason I have 10 or 15 large flat screen HDTV's here all working just perfectly, typical repair takes me about 30 minutes and less than $5.00 in parts. That monitor is repairable even if it's a CRT type monitor suggest you call local TV and stereo shops most of the time it's FAR less expensive to get them repaired than purchase new.

Well, that "Very unique cabling" might not be all that unique if you are handy with the proper tools.

MOST backup monitors have either a 4 wire or six wire interface.. Those wires are as follows (optional wires in prens) There are a few ways to swap them out.

Hardest:

+12 volt
Ground
Video
Shield/Video ground
(Audio)
(Shield/audio ground).

NOTE the video lead may or may not be shielded (Same with audio)

Solution. Identify the power leads, replace with a different type of connector (Many different types) identify the video leads, Install a common RCA (Phono) Connector, YELLOW jacketed. on this lead, sheild goes to the shell, other lead to the pin. NOTE: this takes skill.

Same with audio only use white

I used a RED one for power

Note: Save for power any monitor will work, In fact if you have a video digitizer card/dongle for your computer.. THAT will work.

Now you have standard connectors. But Wait There may be an easier way.

Many companies make adapt-a-kits for just about everything and there is a very good chance that someone makes one from what you got to whatever you buy, this will consist of a plug, short cable and socket (may be two plugs or two sockets) matching the hookup you have, one end connects to what you have, one end connects to what you buy at the same time you got the adapter. PLUG PLUG DONE.

On my B/U monitor there is an A and a B input, A is always chosen when you are in REVERSE but B is handy too, you can use it for anything if you only change the connector. I sliced, diced, and installed standard phono connections.

I then put a 2nd camera (And have plans for at least 2 more) this one is directly under the fuel filler cap (this is a gasser so that's like 20+ feet behind me when I pull up to the pump) now I pull up to a pump, I am centered perfectly every time.. Center of screen = position of filler cap.

Others need a spotter to do that well :)

I would rather have put the camera above but alas, under was easier, the camera I used is a big bolt and nut affair, drill a single hole shove it in and rotate to upright and lock it down (Bit of sealant on the head ring).

Works great.

Eventually I will have a 3 position switch and 2 more cameras.