Fun / Projects / with my 1997 America Dream

So this project took several days to come to fruition.

Two threads on two different forums and help from American Coach.

I can now tie it all up and say it is almost done.

Last year the sliding panel on our inner door shattered. This is the story of replacing it.

Day One.

On my 1997 American Dream I have an inner door on the main entrance and exit door.

This inner door clips onto both the main door and the door frame.

Here is a picture of the inner door clipped to the main door.



The upper and lower panels on the door are a very clear heavy flexible plastic.
and here is the problem, the right piece of safety glass slides in the channel to allow access to the outer door handle, and when the inner door is closed on the door frame the panel can be slide open to allow access to the catch on the inside of the inner door so that it can be opened from the outside.



This piece of safety glass shattered last year, and I cannot figure out how to replace it.

As my description of this door must be confusing here are several pictures to show the operation of the door.

You have seen the inner door clipped to the outer door.

Here is one of the inner door closed in the boor frame.



A shot of the outer door with the inner door closed.



A shot of the entrance open with the inner door clipped to the outer door.



Both doors have their own hinges, the inner door hinge goes over the top of the main door hinge.







I have to believe this is original to the Motor Home. There is no way the aftermarket came up with something this elaborate.

There has to be a way to replace this glass.

Normally you would cut the piece so that you could slide it up into the upper slot (the upper slot being deeper than the lower slot, but it is not)



Swing the bottom edge of the glass over the lower slot and allow it to drop into place.

But as you can see the bottom slot is only 1/16 of an inch shallower than the top slot.



I am stumped as to how to do this.

I have three ideas none which I like.

One is to remove the inner edge of the slot, put the glass in place and that bolt a finished piece of metal over the top of the missing edge.

Two is to remove half of the inner edge of the lower slot. This would allow me to use the normal method of installing the piece of glass. This is the one I am leaning towards, but there has to be a way to installing this glass without modifying the door.

Three is to use Plexiglas which I could bend to get it into both slots. I do not want to cheapen the Motor Home up with a cheap solution.

This door is very useful when parked, the A/C or heat can be on in the Coach and you do not have to open and close the heavy outer door to get in and out.

I received may suggestions from taking the boor to a glass shop to using plexi-glass and bending the plexi to get it into the channel.

Day Two.

I received the answer from Mr_D .

There is a plastic runner in both the top and bottom channel of the frame for the sliding window.



This runner can be hooked and pulled out to supply the room to set the glass in place.



Now all I have to do is take the measurement to a glass shop, get the piece made and put it in place.

No need for pesky vendors.

(I would cut the glass, but this is safety glass, a skill I do not have.)

Guys, if you post a question, please, when you get the answer post that as well so we can all learn.

Thanks.

Day Three.

So I figured that the hard part was over.

I printed out the two largest glass places here in Rochester.

Took my drawing and parts (felt strips and knob) and went for a drive.



I guessed at the knob location as the original piece is long gone, as you will see I guessed wrong.

The first place said they only put metal on the edges of our safety glass.

The second place said they only put croak like substance on the edges, that they cannot drill the hole for the knob, that they have to custom order that from Syracuse and that takes a minimum of ten days.

So than I did what I should have done in the first place is a called American Coach to see if they sell the glass as a part.

The representative knew what I was talking about, but because of the age of my coach the records are not in the computer. She is going to look it and call me back.

Hopefully they sell the part.

Day Four

So I never got a call back.

I called again at 4:00 and was told they could find no record of anyone doing research on the glass panel for the inner door.

I gave them all the information again and was told the door was no longer available that I needed to call a scrap yard and they gave me two phone numbers.

I explain I was not looking for the door, just the glass panel, and suspect that that part is still available as it is a piece that gets broken and should be pretty expensive as it is safety glass (good profit margin).

I got the same response as I did the first time, they would research it and get back to me.

A quick search found an online place that will cut safety glass to order and mail it to you.

Tempered Glass | Custom Cut Safety Glass Delivered to Your Home

I may have to presue this as the local shops only want to do what they do and not provide what I need.

Day Five

I came to believe that I was going to have to have a custom piece made for me.

I knew this would take time so I decided to make a temporary piece until I could get the real thing.

I sent Anne (the better half) out to get the pieces.

She came back with a piece of acrylic. I have never built anything out of acrylic, so I googled cutting and drilling acrylic.

They said to use a saw blade with a loot of teeth which I happen to have.



This worked perfect.

To drill it they said to start small and work your way up, and let the bit do the work. This did not work so well, the acrylic "clouded" around the hole, but will be hidden by the base of the knob.



She could not fine black felt to match the original but was given a small piece of brown, as this is temporary I will have time to find the correct black.



I wanted self sticky back felt and could not find it either, so contact cement it is.





Now the touchy job of applying it, it actually went very nicely.



Now to roll the felt over the edge and up onto the other side.



The install was a breeze, the acrylic is flexible enough to set one edge in and flex the acrylic to pop the other edge in.



Here is where I made the mistake on the placement of the knob. The knob does not allow the panel to slide over far enough to allow clear access to the outer door handle from the inside. As this is temporary, in the finial drawing I send to the custom glass place I will make an adjustment for this.

The handle does not come out far enough to hit the glass.



I will be ordering the Safety glass as in the few trails I have made sliding the glass open and close the acrylic already has some scratches in it.

All done.

While I was walking up the driveway my cell phone rang. It is American Coach.

THEY HAVE THE GLASS, IN STOCK along with a couple other parts I'm looking for.



Not only do they have the part, it is cheaper than I have found through a glass shop. I was quoted $161.00 for custom and American Coach wants $69.19, done deal, send it to me.

So...I'm about to let the cat out of the bag and provide a glance into some future entertainment.

In addition they have the plastic covers for the weep holes for the sliding windows in the coach for $14.63 each, send five, a future project.

Also they have the exact replacement for my water heater for $461.80, Amazon.com wants $538.00 send that, another future project. I have spent that much at Caledonia RV in repairs on the one in the Motor Home and it still does not work right (in the rain on gas it shuts off, and on electric the water only get luke warm).

So stay tuned as there are two more projects coming your way. Not right away as next week I will be racing!

I do not know what it is with me and washing the Motor Home in inclement weather. Last year when I put it away I washed it on a 34 degree day.

There was a lot of grim from the winter on the Motor Home and what better day to wash it then on a rainy day.



So here is the common laborer working for the man.



looks to me like he is ticked to death to be working in this lovely weather.



The basement was dirty also, and the weather has decided to break.



So I think the way it usually goes is you wash your vehicle and then it rains, so I have found out that if you wash your vehicle in the rain than the sun will come out. This is the other side.



Now to dry it out. The dehumidifier would not fit (a little basement humor) so I used fans.



Note the driveway is now dry, and there are no black streaks on the side of the Motor Home.

Jeeps, how did we get on Jeeps!

This Motor Home was original purchased to pull the dragster to races. I can see the end of that era coming. I have back problems and getting in and out of the dragster is getting more difficult.

My wife and I want to do some traveling in the Motor Home, so that will be around for awhile yet.

I was talking about the need for having tire sensors earlier in this thread. Because the monitor is in the very front of the Motor Home and the sensors on the trailer are sixty feet away from the monitor (overall length of the Motor Home and trailer is 72 feet). I have a repeater in the engine compartment to provide a strong signal to the monitor.



I noticed that the pilot light on the repeater was not on, so I figured that it was no longer working. I ordered a new one to replace this one. I knew that had to be the repeater and that it could not possibly be a problem with the way I wired it, right?

Well when I pulled the cover of my terminal box (one of the very first projects in this thread) and went to test to see if I had power the pilot light flickered.



What the heck???? Turns out the circled terminal in the terminal box was loose. I tightened the terminal back up, or maybe for the first time (yes I screwed up, if only vendors would admit when they screw up the RV service industry would be a much better environment).

Easy fix, right? Well when I was tightening the terminal didn't I short the circuit to ground? I blew the fuse.

So I checked the newly found fuse panel under the bed, not there. I checked the circuit breakers behind the dash, not there. I checked the fuse panel in the battery control box, not there.

Holy smoke where the heck is the fuse?

I found it next to the relays for the tail lights, turns out I actually taped into a logical circuit for the repeater. The fuse is labeled "Tow Vehicle".



So this little project has a happy ending with no additional surprises found.

cj7365 wrote:
Although I do not have a DP, I enjoy reading your thread, I do all my own maintenance on my RV and Jeep, I have a 82 CJ7

Please keep the projects coming with all the pictures, thanks!!!!

Thanks, will do. They have to slow down a little though as taking the pictures wears me out, well maybe it's something other than taking the pictures, but I do not know what.

This is my 84 CJ-7 Survivor.









A survivor is a vehicle that has not been restored, no major component has been taken apart, and at lest 80% of the paint is original.

Although I do not have a DP, I enjoy reading your thread, I do all my own maintenance on my RV and Jeep, I have a 82 CJ7

Please keep the projects coming with all the pictures, thanks!!!!

Working on getting ready to go drag racing at the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green this month.

That means hauling the trailer.

As you cannot feel the trailer when pulling it with a 32,000 pound Motor Home I feel it is essential to have a Tire Pressure Monitoring System.

I have actually had two, I sold the other one because I did not like the display (it displayed the Motor Home and trailer horizontally), and it was hard to program. It also would go off after parking for the night because as the tires cooled down it would think it had a leak.

The one I have is from InnoTech, but the system is sold under a number of different names but is the same system.

The InnoTech display shows the tires and rig as it appears as it is going down the road(front at the top and rear at the bottom). This makes it easy to identify which tire is in which location.

Overall I am happy with the system. So it is time to check it for the upcoming trip.



no5 on the display means no sensor.

This is the offending sensor. Yes I know the wheels are dirty, we will fix that shortly (the Motor Home is dirty also).



Time for new batteries for all.



I have had terrible luck with the sensors.

The caps crack.



and when this happens the insides corrode all most instantly.



I had three like this this time. I have been keeping spares for problems on the road.

Up to now Craig has replaced them for free. The system is now two years old and I will not ask him to replace them for free any more.

I went to purchase some off his site and the pricing does not make sense.

Bulk Buying Options

single $40.00
2 up to 4 $49.00 per item
5 up to 8 $44.00 per item

I'm going to have to call tomorrow.

I suspect I will need at lest one new one for the trailer and I will want some more spares to replace the ones I just used.

Ok, Motor Home tires are now monitored.

Now to do something about those rims.



Closer. Although I scrupulously rinsed them off after the salt bath they took on the way home from Florida they did not survive the winter well.



Yes the Motor Home is due for a wash also. For now lets address the wheels, time to gather the implements of destruction (Does anyone remember this term from Alice's Restaurant?)



Mother's Aluminum cleaner, Mother's wax, warm soapy water, and clean rags



One down three to go.



Two down, I hope my arms hold out. Note the once white rags laying by the tire.



All four done, I'm going to have to come back and do them again, but they are good enough for this trip.



Anyone know of a source for these sensors that is cheap?

Ok. the grass has been cut and trimmed.



Now to go back and finish the "surprise project", this should put an end to the oil leak project, unless I find yet another surprise.



First step, unplug the coach from the shore power, turn the house and engine batteries off, and make sure the inverter is off.



This power line runs to the shore power compartment, to a outlet mounted there. Why this was done I do not know as there is already an outlet in this compartment installed by Fleetwood.

There are actually three different projects in this compartment, can you see them.



1) This compartment along with all the others needs to be cleaned from last years use.

2) The outlet needs to be removed.

3) The shore power cord hatch needs to be replaced.

We will get all those done today.

First step, remove the outlet cover and pull the outlet, and sure enough the quick and dirty way to connect the outlet was taken. The wire was connected through the push lock connections on the back of the outlet. In this vibration environment, you would think the screw terminals would have been used. I do not even use the push lock terminals in my home.



This added feature to the Motor Home is perplexing, why was it needed, and they used 10 gauge wire to wire it???

Plug has been pulled, now to go to the circuit panel.

The labels are pealing, we will have to do something about this.



This mystery power cord comes into the breaker box in the lower left corner.



Another sloppy short cut! no cable clamp was used, just think about all the miles traveled with this cable vibrating against the edge of the box.



The original breaker that was in this spot was removed and a double breaker was added. I know this because the terminals use a square drive head and all the others were a normal screw driver head. While I was here I snugged up every other terminal in the box.



Ok, both ends are loose and time to pull the cable. OH MY GOSH! THIS WAS A FIRE WAITING TO HAPPEN. THE CABLE WAS RUN TO CLOSE TO THE EXHAUST!



I did plug the hole in the box, forgot to take a picture, and the panel cover is back in place. I reglued the labels with hot glue, not perfect but certainly better.



Right beside the circuit panel is another 12 volt fuse panel, this is the third one I have found.



This is what these fuses are for.



I filled the hole through the dog house with black RTV



I filled the holes in the wall of the shore power compartment with white silicone sealer.



I think we can call one of three tasks complete, and a good thing to.

On to replacing the shore power cord hatch. The hatch needed a little persuasion to remove it, it was really sealed in.



The sealant did it's job, no sign of rot.



This is the new hatch from Fleetwood. Surprisingly it was cheapest through them. I looked online at a couple of different RV vendors and then called Fleetwood. I purchased it through them along with a couple of other parts (to be shown later).



Eight screws later and it is installed.



And sealed up just as the original one was.



Task number two can be scratched off the list.

Now for the finial task. Here are the implements of destruction.



and now all three tasks are complete.



All done, well, you are never all done right.

While I am working in this corner of the Motor Home there has always been something I wanted to address.



The rubber shroud around the radiator hangs down below the body of the Motor Home, lets see if we can clean this eye sore up a little.



The rubber hangs a little low and has pulled free of the screws holding it in place. There is also a piece that is to long on the vertical side.



So I trimmed the long piece off and I added four screws. I'm not going to be able to get it above the bottom body line as the radiator itself is below the bottom body line.



Added a little black paint to hide the shinny new screws and washers.



This hose has also always bothered me, but that is a project for another day a long way off. It will be a pain as it comes off the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir.



Last year we came back from Florida on the weekend that Buffalo got that HUGE snow storm. I spent several hours washing the salt of the bottom of the Motor Home. For a 18 year old Motor Home the underside is still pretty clean.



This is the junk pile after this project.

So on to rewiring the wiring done by Cummins in Buffalo.

This is the rats nest that was created. Sorry for the quality of the photo, I forgot to turn the flash on.



and a closer view. Note the white wire from the solenoid is to short, as well as the ground wire.



Here is the rats nest unbundled. Again note how short the white wire was cut, you have to ask WHY?



I really like weather pack connectors because they can be taken apart and redone. This wire happens to the ground wire for the solenoid (also to short to be put inside a wire loom).



Ok, the first of three wires that were cut to short has been recreated at the correct length.



Done.



closer



closer still.



You look at this picture and say what did he do, scroll back to the first couple and see the rats nest again and then you will understand.

Here is the junk that was removed.



So surely this job is done now, right? Well no I found two more presents. The first was left to me by Caledonia RV when they installed the new cruise control. For some reason they failed to clip off the excess cable from the control unit. It was just left hanging there waiting to get hung up or tangled in something. This was an easy fix as I had the wire cutters already in hand (it was not raped up like this, I did that so you could see it).



I'm always showing what is being worked on, this is a glimpse of the chaos that develops around a project.



I kept you waiting on the second surprise I found. For some reason someone decided to run a 110 circuit through the engine compartment and just draped it across metal portions, and went through compartment walls without gourmets. This will have to be pulled out. A project of another day, time to go cut the grass.

Ok, I have had a small drip for awhile now.

I thought it was from a hose and have had Cummins look at it several times now.

Today I decided to look at it myself.

This is the mark it leaves after sitting for two days.



I crawled under the unit and the hoses did look dry, and with a flash light shining straight up I found a drip. It is not clear in this photo, but it gives you the location. Starter is to the right (front of the motor home (DP))



So we zoom in a little bit and you can see the drip. When I was under the unit I did not know what the part was, but it turns out it is the bottom of the governor housing.



I went topside and opened the engine compartment and it appears the fuel is leaking from this cover plate.

At first I was concerned with the fact that the bolts holding the plate in place might indicate a heavy spring being held in place by the cover. I now believe it was a warranty safe guard to keep people from playing with the governor settings.



It is quite wet below the plate and not so wet above it. I believe that wind has been blowing the fuel up.

I wiped the part plate clean and find.





I have found it extremely hard to find reference material on the net about Cummins, but I did fine a video on the disassembly of the pump.

Bosch Inline Pump Disassembly Part 1 of 2

I watched the video, there is VERY little conversation or expiation of what is going on but I did capture a screen shot of the cover removed.



My hope is the o-ring has been compressed over time and is leaking. A friend of mine has suggested that the O-rings in the injector pump have been destroyed by the low suffer fuel and I have fuel bypassing the pump into the governor under pressure and that is why I have a leak.

I do use fuel pump lubricant in my fuel.

So to tell the story here I need to go back to last year.

I find no record of ever talking about this, but I'm sure that I have somewhere.

Last year I was having problems with the engine not shutting down right after the key was turned off.

Turned out that it was a rather common problem with the 8.3 Cummins engine, and I found a rather good article on it here Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Replacement

There is a new and improved solenoid produced by Cummins.

So while it was there for general maintenance I had them replace it.

I solved the problem of the engine running after the key was turned off.

This was done right before last years race at Bowling Green.

Just out side of Bowling Green last year we pulled into a Loves for fuel and found the back of the Motor Hone covered in fuel and the front of the trailer also covered in fuel.

I called Cummins and in concert with the Loves mechanical the fuel lines to the injector were tightened (they were lose), we got the Motor Home, trailer and engine washed at a Blue Beacon and were on our way.

No more problems.

Now I told that story to tell this one.

I have been having a small drip for some time and on each general maintenance a Cummins I have asked them to look for the problem.

This thread was started because I found the drip on the bottom of the injector, and though I had found the source.

First I thought it was a hose running along the left side bottom of the engine, than found the drip on the bottom of the injector/governor.

Today the weather broke and I spent a good deal of time looking at the problem. The quote of $8,450 for just the pump was an eye opener.

So in poking around and moving wire harnesses around I discovered hidden in the depths of the engine on top of the governor another spot of fresh oil/fuel.

I should mention at this point my noise does not work well and when I took some of the oil/fuel from the bottom of the governor I detected no fuel smell.

So a long shot with the wire harness pulled to one side.



This was well hidden, but certainly gave me hope that it was not coming from the injector pump.

Let's get a little closer.



So where is this coming from, we are now above pretty much everything mechanical.

Directly above this is the air intake running to the turbo on the far side of the engine, and above that completely out of sight unless you bend down into the engine compartment and look up at the top of the dog house is a foam insulation pad.



It is kind of hanging like insulation does with age, but there is some wetness on the intake pipe.



So ... could this be where the oil/fuel is coming from. How is it getting wet?

I looked from the rear of the Motor Home being a contortionist with a flash light an the telephoto zoomed out the way out and on the back side of the air intake there appears to be to fresh streams of fluid.



Sorry for the poor photo, I took many and this was the best one I got.

Note the injector line are dry.

I have two schools of thought now.

One is I have a pin hole leak in a line that is soaking the insulation.

Two is when the lines were loose from the install of the fuel shut off solenoid (and I have no idea why they would have to be loosened to install the solenoid (unless they were in the way of the install)). When the back of the Motor Home was soaked and the front of the trailer was covered in fuel this insulation was soaked also. If this is the case once again having service done for me as proven it is best to do it yourself even if you do not know what you are doing.

The wiring to the solenoid is poor (wires cut to short so they will not fit into the wire loom).

I will be going to Cummins tomorrow and have them look at this, if there is no high pressure leak, I hope they step up and replace the insulation and clean the engine.

It is a hope, but suspect I will not have the result I hope for. I have been very happy with the other work they have performed so will burn no bridges over this.

Talked with Cummins this morning, when presented with I pay if you find anything that can explain the insulation being wet other that the incident last year and you pay if that is the only explanation. They were unwilling (as I expected) to accept that.

I did not take it to them.

With Cummins unwilling to look and see if the problem resulted from the leak from last year and the pump costing $8,450, I needed to resolve this myself.

The first thing to do was to eliminate the possibility that I had a high pressure leak soaking the insulation.

I covered the top of the engine from the very rear of the A/C compressor to the very front of the engine with an oil absorbent rag. The injection pump is in front of the A/C compressor and the governor is in front of that, so the whole engine and suspected problem areas were covered.



I then closed up the engine compartment and drove the Motor Home about 15 miles, or twenty minutes, the route went from my storage place to my driveway. The route has several hills where the Motor Home has to work to get up them.

Backed it into my drive way and opened up the engine compartment and found no spots coming from under the rag, only spots where it was hard up against the soaked insulation.



So to orientate you, here we are looking at the rear of the engine.



Move in a little closer



Now it gets interesting, and when I was looking at this I did not realize what I now think it means until I saw the pictures. This is the area above the injection pump where we had the leak a year ago.



And a closer shot of the area.



This area is completely dry now, but to me it looks like the area was hammered upward. This area is directly above the connections that were loose a year ago. I believe this damage is a result of fuel under pressure beading the heck out of the insulation.

This insulation was originally glued in place and than had seven screws with large washers holding it in place.

To get to the screws out the air purge/expansion tank needed to be removed



I had actually had this tank out before as it had developed a leak and I took it out and had it soldered up.



Now I have room to get in to remove the screws holding the insulation in place.



Now I can remove the insulation.



I think there is a little fuel in the insulation.



This is the area that was directly above the governor and the area where I found the drip.

I actually found what might have been a good substitute for this insulation, but I elected to order the correct "under Hood" insulation. It should be here by 10:30 tomorrow. I purchased some lauan plywood that I will mount the insulation to. The original insulation was glued in place and when I pulled it down it left a thin layer of foam that the new insulation will not stick to.

I will have to make several small panels so that I can fit them up over the engine.

As I was dead in the water on this project I flushed the water system, and filled the fresh water tank. I had taken pictures of the valve settings last winter before I winterized other wise I would never have been able to figure out how they should be set now. They still make no sense to me.

Robert is coming over tomorrow to explain it to me.

The hot water heater fires up, which is good. My electronic gauges for the gray and black water no longer read once they are more than half full and the 3/4 mark on the fresh water tank does not light up. Yet another project.

So that is where I'm at right now. I hope to get the panels made up tomorrow and maybe installed.

Ok... the old insulation is out and now we need to install the new insulation.

Remember when the old insulation was pulled out it had been glued in and it left a thin layer of foam that the new insulation will not stick to.

The plan is to stick the new insulation to a piece of lauan plywood and than fasten that to the engine housing.

Because of the rear frame of the dog house there is no way to get one piece (2 feet X 56 inches) into the dog house and up on the ceiling. I will create three panels and install one of them at a time.

This insulation was installed before the engine was installed and I cannot reach far enough into the dog house to screw a screw straight up into the ceiling. I can however reach far enough in to screw screws into the frame of the dog house.

So what I will do is screw a piece of 90 degree angle onto the rear cross member of the frame of the dog house to use as a lip to set the three panels on.



Here is the angle



There are two screws that protrude through the ceiling of the engine compartment that needed to be cut off.



Here is the 90 degree angle installed on the dog house frame.



On to building the panels, three pieces of lauan cut to size.



This is a test fit of the lauan pieces, I have spaced the leading edge up with a piece of wood so that when the pieces are installed it will be flush with the ceiling.



I ordered the insulation yesterday and it was here (I had to pick it up)



Here is the insulation out of the box and laid out across the panels.



Now the insulation has been cut to size and stuck to the plywood.



That probably would have been good enough but I used graffer's tape to go around the edges. one piece on top and the edge and a second piece on the edge and back so that the edge actually has two overlapping layers of tape.



Close up.



This stuff is TOUGH stuff. very hard to get off the roll and sticks like you would not believe (thing supper duck tape that can take heat).



Here are the new panels laying beside the old piece of insulation.



So the crowning moment, here are the panels installed. The front slides into the ledge, and then the panel is held up to the ceiling and self drilling screws are used to hold the panel in place (yes I looked to see where the screws would end up, there is a four inch dead space between the top of the dog house and the cabinet in back of the bed. Also remember the old insulation was screwed in place, in fact I used the same screws I took out to put the new insulation in. I also protected the new insulation from the screws with more gaff tape.



In this photo you and see the panel edge sitting on the ledge.



The proof I is in he pudding. I test ran the engine with the RPM raised to 1,000 for 15 minutes and there were no leaks.



I'd like to say this project is done, but it isn't. In the process of removing stuff to get excess I found this.



It was a light for the engine bay, it has power all the time, had no lense or bulb and was connect with a but connector. Obviously the previous owner had been in here, I keep finding stuff like this. I cut it out, I cannot leave this like this.



In my opinion the only way to insure a quality connection is to sober it.



And to use heat shrink tubing to seal the connection.



The light is installed with an on/off switch.



It throws a lot of light, this is what it looks like when the camera meter does not see the bright light.



All done right, no, hot really, the wiring job done on the fuel shut off solenoid is really bad. Do you remember way back when where I described the problem that started this whole problem. if I had done the install myself I wouldn't have spent the last to days installing new insulation. The only thing with the install of the fuel shut off solenoid I will end up not doing is bolting it onto the engine.

I will address that tomorrow

I am having a problem with a fuel leak from a plate on the governor housing on the injector pump.

I have posted detail and pictures in the garage forum.

If you can help or shed information I would appreciate it.

This is the link
Fuel Leak / Injector Pump / Bosch Governor / Cover Plate