Forum Discussion

luberhill's avatar
luberhill
Explorer
Jun 09, 2016

Help needed,,? on 25ft Winn Itaska classc

Neighbor lady (78 yrs old) has this motorhome,,,2006,,,bought brand new,,,has 16,500 miles,,,,newertires,,2 new coach Deka batteries,,,low hrs on the generator....she said she THINKS the waterheater is ONLY gas,,,not electric,,,is this correct ?

She said the fridge is gas or electric but does NOT run of invertor,,,is this correct ??

coach is clean,,,,entertainment ctr above drive and pass seat,,,

rear corner bed/ sofa....very firm....she wants 29k for it,,,thoughts ???

Thx
Class C
  • toedtoes's avatar
    toedtoes
    Explorer III
    Jun 10, 2016
    dicknellen wrote:
    What model Itasca made by Winnebago is this. There is a build plate showing the model number and date it was built. I think you will find it by opening the drivers door. I have not heard of a Itasca Classic. Dick


    I think the OP meant Itasca Class C not Itasca classic. :)
  • dicknellen's avatar
    dicknellen
    Explorer II
    Jun 10, 2016
    What model Itasca made by Winnebago is this. There is a build plate showing the model number and date it was built. I think you will find it by opening the drivers door. I have not heard of a Itasca Classic. Dick
  • tatest's avatar
    tatest
    Explorer II
    Jun 10, 2016
    In that era, for "entry level" C's Winnebago was using the 6 gallon Atwood electronic ignition water heater, no electric heating element. The fridge was a 6 cu ft Dometic, running on propane or a 120V heating element. Both are dependent on having a 12V supply, for controls, from battery, running engine, or converter.

    If the C has an inverter, it would have been a very small one (100-200 watt) supplying an outlet for some piece of 120V entertainment equipment. Everything else AC runs from the AC power cord, which has be plugged into an external supply or a 120V, 30 amp outlet supplied by the generator.

    If it is a "premium level" C, some of the equipment will be different. I don't have brochures. You can find those online at the Winnebago site, for almost everything since 1969.
  • Bordercollie's avatar
    Bordercollie
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2016
    If you have the time, look back at the "stickies" and many threads on this forum with advice on buying a used Class C. Date codes appear on the side walls of tires. Tires older than 5 years may be prone to coming apart or blowing regardless of tread depth or appearance. Brake fluid should be changed and brake system checked out. Engine cooling system, batteries and converter charger often need work . Leaks in roof or side walls may be very expensive to have fixed. These are basics. Get as smart as you can before buying a used rig and expect to spend some big bucks the first year, "depending".
  • luberhill's avatar
    luberhill
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2016
    well now im thinking as others have said...this rear corner bed/sofa is going to drive me nuts,,,,I think I better stay with my first plan,,,at least one slide with a rear walk around bed or rear bed slide,,,,its jus my wife and I and the dog so I still want to stay under 29ft so no toad
  • toedtoes's avatar
    toedtoes
    Explorer III
    Jun 10, 2016
    luberhill wrote:
    toedtoes wrote:
    We would actually need to know the age of the motorhome (not the lady :) ).

    If it's an older MH, then it is quite likely that the water heater is propane only.

    I'm assuming "fried" is supposed to be "fridge". Most likely that is correct - it will run off propane or electric (when connected to shore power or generator) but will not run off electric when not on shore power or generator.

    "newer tires" is not saying anything. Check the code on the tires to see the actual age.

    Would have to know the age of the MH to be able to guess if $29K is reasonable or not.



    where are the codes" on the tires,,,and how do you read them ?? Thx


    how to read tire codes
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer II
    Jun 10, 2016
    Harvard wrote:
    If you put anti freeze in the WH it would take 6 gallons AND then you will have a tough time clearing the WH when you "summerize".


    To expand, when you drain the water heater tank, it sits full of air. Frozen air is not a problem in plumbing since it doesn't expand with tremendous force like water does when it freezes.

    Many people (me being one) only use antifreeze in the drain traps and blow the water out of the plumbing system of the RV with an air compressor rather than displacing it with antifreeze. If you have a compressor and take the time to do a thorough job, it's perfectly effective and doesn't leave aftertaste in the spring and saves a tiny bit of money for the antifreeze. Antifreeze isn't all that expensive, though.
  • Harvard's avatar
    Harvard
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2016
    If you put anti freeze in the WH it would take 6 gallons AND then you will have a tough time clearing the WH when you "summerize".
  • luberhill's avatar
    luberhill
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2016
    luberhill wrote:
    CharlesinGA wrote:
    Snatch it up now unless it shows signs of leaking. Has it been under cover or out in the open?

    What chassis is it on, Ford E350?

    Charles


    No signs of leaks,,,stored outside,,roof looks like one pc on rubber roof....that rear corner bed/couch may be a pain...

    Under the bed is a thing that says "by pass"...she said that so you don't put antifreeze in the water heater....why wouldn't you ???


    I thought it said Ford 450..ill look again
  • luberhill's avatar
    luberhill
    Explorer
    Jun 10, 2016
    CharlesinGA wrote:
    Snatch it up now unless it shows signs of leaking. Has it been under cover or out in the open?

    What chassis is it on, Ford E350?

    Charles


    No signs of leaks,,,stored outside,,roof looks like one pc on rubber roof....that rear corner bed/couch may be a pain...

    Under the bed is a thing that says "by pass"...she said that so you don't put antifreeze in the water heater....why wouldn't you ???

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