help with dust cover on 03 ford 350 (swd) not 4X4

pauldub,

What torque does FSM show for the Anchor Plate Bolts?

My Haynes is close to FSM on the front wheel bearings:

1. 17-25 ft-lb
2. Back off 1/2 turn
3. 22-25 INCH-lb

All that torque is to make sure we aren't setting the bearings up against a layer of grease. Ya know how hard it is to convince folks those bearings are to be TIGHT?
Good luck with those Anchor Plate Bolts! Whatever it takes, you won't hurt the bolts. Get something on it that fits right (six or twelve point socket, box wrench) and go after it. Sometimes I have to crawl under and get my foot on it and push. Maybe that's why it's "foot" pounds. Just don't hurt YOU.

The Haynes manual actually agrees with Ford's FSM (factory service manual) for 2003. For the front wheel bearings, here a paraphrase from the FSM:

1. Tighten the spindle nut to 30 ft-lb while turning the rotor clockwise.
2. Back off the spindle nut 2 turns.
3. Tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 ft-lb while turning the rotor counter-clockwise.
4. Back off the spindle nut half a turn.
5. Tighten the spindle nut to 17 in-lb (not ft-lb) while turning the rotor clockwise.

From the Haynes Manual:

Front Caliper Slide Bolts 1997 On = 16 to 30 ft-lb

Anchor Plate-to-Spindle Bolts 1995 to 2003 = 141 to 191 ft-lb

2004 On = 128 ft-lb

Remember this is from an E-Series Manual.

Or GutenTite... Think of tightening a Lug Nut under there.

I'll look it up in my Haynes Manual, which I can get to later today. To me, bolts like those, big, holding two heavy forgings, need only German Torque (GutenTite). Nothing's going to strip, break, or warp. Unlike Heads, Spark Plugs, etc...
I'll get you the School Solution number after awhile.

j-d wrote:
Afterthought - You'll be all the way down to the "Splash Shields," those little sheet metal pie plates that keep road slop away from the inboard rotor surface. I used a 3/8" wrench but they're likely a metric with 10mm head. Those little biters are machine screw thread but they're self-tapping. One of them holds the bracket for the ABS cable. I went to remove it and even with care, with heat, I broke it. No great loss, I was replacing that whole forging anyhow.
Unless your rig is pristine like-new (hear that, Ron.Dittmer?) I would NOT touch them. If you need to release the ABS line, pry the clip open and squeeze it back later with your new Channel Lock 420 Pliers. Since my replacement parts were new, I removed each of those little capscrews, cleaned screws and holes, and reassembled with NevrSeez.

Good info. For some reason this "simple" job is turning into more than I wanted.

Couple parts won't be here till late today or Monday, so I'll have the weekend to get bolt loosened up (I hope).

Do you happen to know what the torque should be? Does 76 pounds sound about right? That number came from a Ford fix it site, sort of like here where people give comments and not "by the book" numbers. Wondering if that number sounds good to you?

Thanks

Afterthought - You'll be all the way down to the "Splash Shields," those little sheet metal pie plates that keep road slop away from the inboard rotor surface. I used a 3/8" wrench but they're likely a metric with 10mm head. Those little biters are machine screw thread but they're self-tapping. One of them holds the bracket for the ABS cable. I went to remove it and even with care, with heat, I broke it. No great loss, I was replacing that whole forging anyhow.
Unless your rig is pristine like-new (hear that, Ron.Dittmer?) I would NOT touch them. If you need to release the ABS line, pry the clip open and squeeze it back later with your new Channel Lock 420 Pliers. Since my replacement parts were new, I removed each of those little capscrews, cleaned screws and holes, and reassembled with NevrSeez.

Spindle Nut goes essentially "hand tight." Torque it hard, say 25-ft-lb, turn the hub, make sure it's tight. Then back off and tighten with just your hand on the socket or extension. Since it uses those "smart nuts" you can line the cotter pin up without having to disturb the nut itself again. The "slight wobble" went away with ball bearings. These taper rollers want the slightest pre-load.
Ah Warnt AKiddin when I mentioned those 21mm bolts! Those of us who want a degree of self-sufficiency should pull those, one at a time, clean, and re-install with a "release agent." I used copper NevrSeez, but I think what we're trying to do is keep water out of an exposed joint. Could be grease, gasket sealer, BLUE Loctite.
FYI the REAR caliper mounting is different, at least on E450 pre-2008. Once the Caliper is off, the Rotor would come off. E350 and possibly 2008+ E450 use slide bolts and I (ONLY) suspect a bracket similar to front would interfere.
OK, back to it - I found it awkward to get an adequate breaker bar in place and still be where I could work it. I had the axle on stands, wheels off, but steering straight ahead. Steering to one side then the other might give you a better shot. I don't remember if I ever thought I could get in there with an impact wrench. Access might have been too tight. It's a large bolt with high strength and torque ratings. There's not much risk of breaking one off. Some of the worst-stuck fasteners I've removed I've done manually. Even a good impact just sat there and rattled, but with enough leverage I got them moving. Once those bracket bolts move, spray again and they'll walk out with a "Who, Me?" grin on their little 21mm faces.

Apparently some have a little hook at end of handle?

"Taken the Caliper Mounting Brackets off yet?" Tried but one is stuck big time. Got caliper slide pins out OK and one caliper mounting bolt. But the other one is stuck big time. I'm going to change the wheel bearings also, so it has to come off. If I was just doing brakes I would not mess with them. Have PB blaster soaking in it right now.

I was surprised how little of torque on spindle nut.

Going to give a few shots over weekend of BP blaster, then try again Monday. If all the parts come in, I'll give it a tug then. If it doesn't come loose, then I'll try some heat.

Channel Lock and Vise Grip are two tool brands that seem to defy imitation. I have a couple Harbor Freight "water pump" pliers and won't even consider using them if the task is critical.
I have a set of "brake pliers" too. Brake SPRING Pliers, right? I'll have to see if they offer something for dust caps.
Taken the Caliper Mounting Brackets off yet? Ours were so tight and so rusted I couldn't get them off in the field. Officially 21mm head size. 13/16" will fit but all I had was a 1/2" drive ratchet. Needed a breaker bar. At home, I used a reducer and loosened them with a 3/4" breaker. You can see why some shops re-pack only the outers and call it good. If they can get the Dust Caps off...