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rv4jimnme's avatar
rv4jimnme
Explorer
Feb 20, 2015

House Batteries 2 6 Volt Deep Cycle Not Charging

House Batteries were not charging found out they were almost empty. Filled them and plugged into 120 and the system display for power will shut down after a period of time. It only charges a few volts then shuts down. Is this the inverter or transfer system? We have a 2007 Pace Arrow Class A and am thinking we ruined our nearly new batteries or it could be the transfer unit? thanks

7 Replies

  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    When you say they were "Empty" do you mean the cells were dry, plates exposed to air?

    Replace the batteries. Sams club(and selected Costco) stores seem to have the best day to day price on GC-2 Golf car batteries.

    BEFORE YOU REMOVE

    Get a can of red spray paint and find the positive terminal with wires that run off to who knows where, SPRAY THEM RED.. optional black on the other end (negative). Wait a day (or night) and then remove and replace.
  • thanks all! we got new batteries there were dead, The panel that tells us the battery charge was up there 12 or 13 amps.after they were installed....So then we plugged into 110 (all that is available at storage area) they start going down. So we tried running generator and they go down. Sorry I am not technical am writing this for hubbie, if someone can explain simply it would be helpful.
    Important IF YOU RUN the engine they will charge...we were trying to head out in a few days but am thinking even if we go 20 miles to our RV park and plug into 50 amp our house batteries still will not charge and we need of course an RV repair? if so we are stuck for awhile I guess...Maybe if we run the engine for hours..ha I know I need expert advice...and troubleshooting just that no one seems available right now.thanks again..oh rv tech said perhaps we could just change out the transfer box or clean the contacts? they carry them but we are clueless where this could be on the coach...and don't think we want to risk this???????????
  • Remove the batteries and have them charged and tested. Not worth risking failure in the RV.

    Time to review the charging system and maintenance schedule that allowed this to happen.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I always rely on a DC MULTIMETER across the battery main 12VDC switch. If the battery bank is fully charged it will read 12.6-7VDC when not connected to shore power or generator.

    When I plug the trailer into shore power the DC VOLTAGE at the battery switch will jump up to 13.6VDC or whatever charge mode the converter is in if it is a SMART MODE charger type. when my battery is reduced down to its 50% charge state my smart mode converter/charger when connected to shore power starts out in 14.4VDC for a couple of hours, then drops back to 13.6VDC for an additional hour, and finally then drops to 13.2VDC when no load is detected. This is when my batteries are at 90% charge. If I leave it all running for a total of around 12 hours then the battery bank will achieve a 100% charge state.

    If I don't see this DC VOLTAGE jump then I know for some reason the batteries are not connected to the converter/charger unit or the converter/unit is not coming on etc...

    If it starts up in 14.4VDC mode but really draws alot of current (more than 17AMPS per battery) then I know one of the batteries must have a dead cell in it and needs to corrected before I can continue using the batteries.

    I use a manual BATTERY MONITOR panel that monitors my two battery banks DC VOLTAGE level and another DC CURRENT meter that will monitor what the load DC CURRENT when not connected to SHORE POWER. When I am connected to shore power then this DC CURRENT METER will show how many amps is being demanded by the batteries when they are being re-charged.

    Really helps in knowing what is happening at all times when you have to depend so much on the batteries to make it through the night when you need them...

    This is how I manage my battery bank...

    Botton line is to learn what to look for and then perhaps you won't end up with a big surprise using your batteries way back off the road somewhere when you really need them to work for you.

    Roy ken
  • Chances are good if they have been run dry that they will have to be replaced. The shutting off of the charge might mean they are so far gone that the charger cannot charge them at all. Batteries shorted internally will do the same thing. Have them tested before spending more time and effort to charge them.
  • Many chargers will not charge a dead battery, or only charge ON/OFF/ON/Off.

    Best to hook up a small battery charger to get them started-- and even it may do the same thing.