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BillHoughton's avatar
BillHoughton
Explorer II
Jul 04, 2019

House battery charging issue

We can normally run 4-5 days on the house batteries (two six-volt "golf cart" batteries in series, for 12 volts) on our 2006 Itasca Navion. We're just back from a week and a half trip (total mileage probably did not exceed 500), and encountered a problem. On the second to last stop, after three days, the battery indicator (this is just about house batteries; motor battery was fine) was showing that the batteries were flat. They turned out to be nearly flat, although they had enough grunt to bring the slide in when we left camp (thank goodness; I really don't need to learn how to bring it in manually any earlier than I must). We then drove about five hours to the next stop, at which point the battery indicator showed just 2/3 charge. The motor's alternator charges the house batteries when the van is running, and a drive of that distance should have had them fully charged. We were at the last stop only overnight, and used the battery as little as possible. After a two-and-a-half hour drive home, the battery continued showing 2/3 charge.

I also note that the electrolyte, which I always top up before a trip, is down. Normally, I've found one or two cells below full, to a minor degree, and fine at the end of the trip.

I'll be starting by pulling the batteries, manually charging them individually, and getting them tested. My hypothesis is that a cell fried on one of them, and the alternator, diligently trying to bring them up to full charge, was overcharging the battery combination, leading to evaporation of electrolyte.

If that's correct, should I replace both batteries, in case of damage to the good one?

I presume that the house battery charging current is controlled by a separate voltage regulator from the voltage regulator controlling charge for the motor battery (otherwise, one or the other could be getting overcharged at any given time). Should I be testing that charging circuit, and is this something a good automotive electrical shop can test, or will I need to make an appointment with an RV shop (and wait and wait - the good one in this area is booked out for months)?

16 Replies

  • Don’t forget to clean all the battery terminals and connections until they are shiny. They can look fine and secure but dirty connections can give you problems.
  • Hi Bill,

    Charging from the alternator is mostly just a trickle charge.

    It is possible to add an external diode to the alternator and then some serious charging is possible.

    Now a days DC to DC converters are an excellent, if some what expensive, way to get excellent results.
  • Would it help to bring the slide in with the engine running?
  • Thanks to both of you. If I do have a bad battery, I'll have to search the recent battery-related posts: I bought Costco batteries when I replaced the previous ones, but I recall a recent conversation in which someone recommended a particular brand.

    We've owned this for several years, and the battery charging has been stellar up to now; so I don't feel strongly motivated to add another component to the system.
  • BillHoughton wrote:

    I presume that the house battery charging current is controlled by a separate voltage regulator from the voltage regulator controlling charge for the motor battery (otherwise, one or the other could be getting overcharged at any given time). Should I be testing that charging circuit, and is this something a good automotive electrical shop can test, or will I need to make an appointment with an RV shop (and wait and wait - the good one in this area is booked out for months)?

    Highly unlikely that there is any kind of a "regulator" for the house batteries. Likely, at best, you have an isolator so that the house battery bank can not "pull down" the starting battery.

    If you are relying on the vehicle charging system to properly charge the house bank, I highly recommend you invest in a DC-DC battery charger, like a CTEK D250SA. It will do a much better job of keeping your house bank charged.

    A GOOD auto electric shop could do the job, but they need to back trace the current charging wire and remove the isolator so that they can follow the direction when properly installing the D250SA.