how do i tell if 50 amps is coming through plug.

X2

smkettner wrote:
peaches, I don't think you read what I said. Do you expect the landlord to fix the RV for free?
Because I suspect there was an issue with the RV all along...

I guess I did't read your statement right either. Sorry .I agree with peaches.

Sadly there is no way you can prove anything to the customer.

You can test,, I can tell you how to build a test panel, two methods, but thats all you can do.

here is how to test

You need to build a test panel the easiest test panel is a 50 amp RV type service box mounted on a piece of plywood,, You need a PIG TAIL type connector to feed it power,, You will need to expose the black or black and red wires (not bare the copper but expose the black/red insulation) so you can clamp on a clamp on ammerter or.. you can put an in-line ammeter (you need two) on the board.

Circuit breakers (20 amp) to 4 duplex recpticals on each side of the panel
One outlet per breaker

Plug in 4 Space heaters, 1500 watt (12 amp) that's 48 amps, Verify with meter

Move to other side,

That is the only way I know to test to insure you are getting full power

Oh, and measure voltage across the outlet, (240 volts across, 120 side to top or bottom, this assumes round pin at bottom)

cwit wrote:
I guess I did't read your statement right either. Sorry .I agree with peaches.

If the problem is the RV, why did moving it to another spot fix it?
cwit and I would like to know.

Hi,

If there is a loose wire in the breaker panel of the RV, the act of moving it might cause it to reconnect and work for a while.

peaches&cream wrote:

cwit wrote:
I guess I did't read your statement right either. Sorry .I agree with peaches.

If the problem is the RV, why did moving it to another spot fix it?
cwit and I would like to know.

Like Smkettner said:


It is 50 amp 240/120 volt service.
50 amps at 240 volts, 12,000 watts.
Since RVs only use 120 volts it is the RV equivalent of 100 amps.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4 wire grounding Service

This 50-amp service has 4 wires with two 120-volt HOT feeds. It is a misconception that this 50-amp RV service is something special. This service is a STANDARD 120/240 50-amp 3 pole with 4 prongs used for numerous applications.
From this common service we can draw 120 or 240 volts. Each leg is 50 amps @ 120 volts. 50-amp X 120-volt = 6000 watts. But since there are 2 HOT 120-volt legs at 6000 + 6000 = 12,000 watts to use in the RV or 50-amp X 240-volt = 12,000 watts when used as a 240-volt service.

Almost ALL 50-amp wired RV's use both sides of the service separately as 120 volt on each leg. Only a few mostly high-end coaches utilize the 240-volt from this same service.

The 50-amp 3-pole 4-wire service is superior to the 30-amp service because of the total amperage available.

30-amp 120-volt service = 3,600 watts
50-amp 120/240-volt service = 12,000 watts

An RV 50 amp outlet has TWO 50 amp breakers.

The half round or U is the ground the one directly below it is the WHITE or neutral and the other two black wires are 180 degrees out of phase with each other are the HOT 120-volt. In reality you have TWO 120 volt split service going into your RV.

naturist wrote:
50 amp RV service is really two separate 120 volt, 25 amp circuits, as I understand it. This would suggest you only need a tester capable of drawing 25 amps. 25 amps at 120 volts is 3,000 watts. So get two 1500 watt heaters (probably run you $15-$20 at Wallys -- or heck, you probably have a couple laying around already, as that is the "standard" small space heater wattage). Plug 'em in together on one branch of the circuit, then the other, and if the circuits both support the heaters going full blast for, oh, say, one minute, you got 50 amp service.

Your way wrong on that one. your 50 amp service is classified as 50 amp 230 volt service. You can draw 50 amp on either leg. your capacity is close to 12,000 watts, versus 3600 for a 30 amp 120 volt service

Henry Haigh Electric Co
Haigh Electrical Engineering services

to the OP, check one or both of the ungrounded conductors with a clamp on amp meter to see what the guy is drawing. probably nothing wrong with you

There is a couple variables why it didn't work then it worked.
I would say the rig's cable or connectors are questionable.
Could be cord body at the pedestal end having one partially open or completely open when wiggled.
If the rig has a twist lock connector to attach shore power cord, same as above.
If the rig has a retractable cord reel the slip rings could be burnt, corroded or not making contact.
50 amp shore power is 120/240 four wire. two legs of 120 on different phases, a neutral and a ground.

Judging by the OP's post, I get the impression that he is not that versed in electrical issues. Most of the replies, tho correct, are probably too technical for the OP's purposes. I think the only way to get a correct answer is to call out a different electrician to inspect all aspects of the wiring to insure that everything was wired correctly from the source so that ALL of the 50 amp outlets are capable of supplying the required 50 amp service the customers are paying for.
This can all be done with a physical inspection of the wire gauge, length of run, source capacity, etc, without hooking up a bunch of loads, which would only be valid if the loads were set up on all 50 amp pedestals at the same time to check for voltage drop.
Another electrician will also check for loose connections while he is doing the inspection.
If the source capacity is sufficient and the wire gauge is correct for the run, then a load test will be fine and unnecessary.