How does this radiator come out

Brian in Michigan wrote:
I pulled mine out the front. It was an 8 hour job coming out 6 to put it back in. i stayed with the 4 core setup but went with 5/8" tube instead of the 3/8 that was in it. It was a lot of work but well worth it. Somewhere I have a more detailed description of events.
Edit, here is the link http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24300257/gotomsg/24305347.cfm#24305347

I'll bet we have the exact same chassis. My plan is to do the minimum amount possible to get a new radiator installed. I hope to not pull the fiberglass, grill and bumper. It doesn't look like I need to pull all of that to get the radiator out. My belts look really nice and modern. I'll leave them and the water pump, not going to mess with that either. That little hose off of the back of the pump will get replaced although it really looks like it's been changed out in the not to distant past, the hose clamps are all shiny new looking. The hose feels good but, I'm going to replace it anyway. My goal is to just get a new radiator installed with as little pain and suffering as possible.

I pulled mine out the front. It was an 8 hour job coming out 6 to put it back in. i stayed with the 4 core setup but went with 5/8" tube instead of the 3/8 that was in it. It was a lot of work but well worth it. Somewhere I have a more detailed description of events.
Edit, here is the link http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24300257/gotomsg/24305347.cfm#24305347

I wrestled with that decision about the water pump. I chose not to, mainly due to the cost of an OEM water pump, but also I figured that a stock GM waterpump should go 100K and I was only at about 45K, so I went cheap and left the stock one on there. That was 2 years ago and still no leaks.

I did replace the hoses though.

Dachristianman has a good point. There should be a little bypass hose that is a pain no matter how you do it. Adding to that about the hoses, it would be beneficial to replace the water pump.

might google how to remove the radiator on a P30.

I did this same job on a 91 P30 a couple years ago. You do not have to disconnect any AC lines to get it out. There is enough slack in the lines to allow the condenser to move out of the way.

Also, if I remember correctly, I had to take some huge piece of steel underneath the engine to get the radiator to come out.

Also, getting to that upper radiator hose clamp was a bear.

Once you get it out, consider changing out your belts while you're in there. You have so much stuff off the front of the engine, getting to the belts is a snap.

Good luck with it.

Air ratchet may need larger holes. I believe I used a ratcheting box wrench.

10-4, thanks. Looks like a good place to use an air ratchet on those bolts.

Yes, those are where the bolts come through and connects to. I think I used a 1.5 hole saw to cut access to bolts
The upper frame should then come off to lift radiator out.

It looks like there are nut plates spot welded in the framework. I'm assuming that the bolts come from outside in? Does the top of the frame come off? Also, it looks to me like the condenser will swing out of the way. The physical location of the radiator is the biggest issue as far as this job. It's a stretch to reach from inside and outside. Fun fun..