regis101 wrote:
Another point to consider is the rubber brake lines. They have been known to get gummy and/or soft on the inside.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .
Precisely ... that is another potential problem with old, deteriorating flex lines. (Brake flex lines is the name commonly used for the rubber brake lines.)
On most (all?) vehicles, there are three flex lines. One on each of the front wheels and a third on the rear axle. Typically, the two on the front wheels are connected directly to the calipers (front disk) or wheel cylinders (front drum). The one on the rear axle is connected to a tee (which often includes a rear axle vent), with hard lines going to each of the rear wheels.
The flex lines allow for suspension movement.
On vehicles with multiple rear axles (live or idler), there's a separate flex line for each rear axle.
Flex lines typically cost less than $10.00 USD each. So, for less than $30.00, you can replace all three.
Identical flex lines are often used across multiple year/make/models so they should be easy to find, even for older vehicles. (This commonality tends to be more true for older vehicles whereas more recent models tend to have greater variations.) Use
chassis VIN to look up the correct lines.
In case you can't find the appropriate listing, competent parts store staff can help you find appropriate replacements by visually comparing yours to the ones in stock. (I found suitable replacements for a 30's era vehicle this way for a customer when I worked at CarQuest.)
The flare fitting at each end is a determining fact, in terms of thread size and pitch, as well as type of flare. Focus first on the connection to the calipers/wheel cylinders and hose length. The other end usually has the same means of attaching the hose to the frame hard lines, although the thread/flare may differ from that of the hard lines. In that case, use a brass adapter fitting to make things work.
In the worst case, if you're unable to find the correct part numbers, let me know and I'll use my resources to try to find the correct parts. However, please try to find the parts yourself first. I'm really busy but I don't mind helping someone as long as they've made a attempt to help themselves. (If they just throw up their hands and turn to me first, I tend to charge -- a lot -- for my services ... if I even bother.)
