PoorGary wrote:
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up without removing the wheels.
Take care
Parking/emergency brake engaged? If so, the cables sometimes get corroded or frozen. (Frozen parking brake kept my '90 E-150 from moving at -30F ... even after releasing the brakes.) If so, try PB Blaster on the cable.
Alternatively, as a temporary "fix" to get it moved a short distance, open the rear wheel cylinder bleed valves and try moving the truck back and forth to see if the shoes pop loose. (Like trying to get unstuck from snow/ice/mud ... just don't shift quickly from forward to reverse or you risk damaging tranny & differential.)
If neither of these work, your only choice is to pull the drums and find out what seized.
Regardless, I'd plan on redoing the rear brakes before depending on them.
