eyeteeth wrote:
Well...
Drained the coolant. Still looked pretty good actually. Replaced the lower hose with the universal as It was the only one I could find that was stiffer than what was already on there. (couldn't get a spring to insert) Put a new cap one and ran a coolant flush using Zyrex product. Once it cooled, drained it again, and ran water through the system until it came out clear. Filled wit fresh coolant, then went for a drive.
It was better... but nothing I'd want to drive any distance. The gauge hung right at the very top of the gauge, then would occasionally just all the way up to the "H" then come back down...
About the only thing I haven't done, is the water pump... so... what is the part number for the proper water pump. I can't remember if you listed that last time or not. But... that's the only other thing I can think of. at this point.
The antifreeze may look okay but not be sufficient. The only way to be sure is use a professional tool check it. While they're not cheap, I have a refractometer for checking antifreeze.
Make sure you have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. (Don't buy premixed antifreeze -- you're paying extra for water.) Pour a gallon of pure antifreeze into the radiator, refill the jug with water and pour that into the radiator. Repeat until the radiator is full then run the engine until the engine is warm and the thermostat has opened. While the engine is still running, top off the radiator with antifreeze. (I usually leave the radiator cap off while doing this and watch through the radiator neck until everything starts to mix and the level drops.)
Growing up in northern Minnesota, I recall a lot of cracked engine blocks due to insufficient antifreeze.
A 50/50 mix will protect the vehicle down to mildly subzero temperatures. Here in interior Alaska, with -50°F common, knowledgeable people use a mix of 2/3 antifreeze and 1/3 water.
However, do NOT be tempted to use pure antifreeze! It will actually provide LESS protection than a suitable mixture. Protection follows a curve that bottoms out around 60-70% antifreeze before rising again as antifreeze approaches 100% concentration.
Actually, even a relatively small concentration of antifreeze will protect a stored vehicle as long as you don't start the vehicle in cold temperatures. The fan causes a rush of air through the radiator and around the engine that super-cools everything. (Actual figures on the initial temperature plunge is amazing.)
I'm starting to agree with VintageMopar about the possibility of air pockets in system. The fact the temperature occasionally rises and drops back down indicates coolant may be momentarily pushed into where those pockets are.
An additional test: When the engine is running hot, move the interior heat lever all the way to hot and turn on the heater fan. If the engine temp drops noticeably, let us know.
I have a friend here in Fairbanks that has what he calls his "winter Pinto." It doesn't even have a radiator. Instead, he has extra large heater cores and fans in the interior and uses them to keep the engine at the right temperature. (He's a Pinto fan and has collected every one he can find in interior Alaska.)
