Eric Hysteric wrote:
Thanks! The information about the spare ballast resistor ist very valuable. I love the old technique but it's very important to know their "achilles' heel" and to what to check first in case of a problem. There is no alternative to the unreliable ballast resistor?
Nope. The ballast resistor makes ignition components last longer by reducing the voltage going to the ignition coil when the engine is running.
The engine doesn't need as hot of a spark when the engine is running (key is in RUN position). A cold engine
does need a hotter spark in order to start easier. So, OEM wiring bypasses the ballast resistor when the key is in the START position.
Ballast resistors either work or have failed ... no in between. When one fails, the engine will crank and start running, as long as the key is held in the START position. When the key is released (returns to the RUN position), the engine dies. (Failed ballast resistor prevents voltage reaching coil when key is in RUN position.)
A temporary fix is possible but inadvisable. It's better to carry a spare just in case. I can swap ballast resistors in about two minutes. (It'll take longer to dig out the spare and tools than to do the actual swap.)
There are two possible ballast resistors, depending on whether yours has two or four wires going to it.
Part number RU19, list price $12.79.
Part number RUE1, list price $7.99
BWD part numbers, parts stores will either use that number or be able to interchange it. List prices are in US dollars and you should be able to get one for less.
Now, it's 5 am AKDT and it's been a long day ... good night.
