TreeSeeker wrote:
I found an article that says we don't really need a ballast resistor if we don't have points (I don't).
Electronic ignition systems, whether factory Mopar or aftermarket, don’t utilize breaker points, thereby not actually needing a ballast resistor to control amperage through the pickup coil. And while ignition coil life may be compromised without a resistor, the additional secondary voltage (at the spark plug) is increased which generally improves power. So does your application require a ballast resistor? Quite simply, if your distributor has breaker points the answer is yes; if not, the answer is no.
For full article go here.
Yes, I read the same article ... and
cringed.
I've said, way back in this thread, you can connect the ballast resistor leads together if your ballast resistor leaves you stranded, far from help and without a spare. IIRC, I said only to get out of a remote area and preferably for not more than 50 miles.
What is the author's credentials? Personally, I'd trust a fleet of Chrysler electrical engineers and decades of successful operation in thousands of vehicles over one person's (questionable) suggestion.
There's a saying among engine builders -- "How much horsepower can you afford?" The same question applies here. The article is written primarily for hot-rodders and muscle car enthusiasts, who are willing and able to spend money to build and
maintain high performance vehicles.
Moonshine runners omitted the ballast resistor in "bait" cars to outrun the cops once they'd drawn them away from whoever was hauling the moonshine. They also replaced the coil, sparkplugs, distributor cap, rotor, and points at least yearly, to keep the bait car from dying at an inopportune time.
I'm not saying you shouldn't try this ... I wouldn't. Also, weigh the potential cost against your motivation.
