Eric Hysteric wrote:
Engine starts cold very well, warm needs cranking.
Sounds, like your choke isn't opening properly when the engine is warm.
Eric Hysteric wrote:
The carburator leaks and i need to change some gaskets and maybe the float needle.
Rebuilding a carburetor is a bit difficult, particularly in terms of the right size needles, adjusting the float, and making sure everything is installed correctly. I used to do it myself but now usually just buy a rebuilt. (Recently, I've had mine rebuilt by a friend who specializes in that ... unfortunately, he's fighting cancer now.)
Eric Hysteric wrote:
Where can i find a manual how to remove the carburetor from block or is it easy and self explanatory?
Removing the carburetor from the intake manifold is easy. (It usually take me about 15 minutes but I have lots of experience.) Reinstalling it takes longer, to make sure everything is connected correctly.
Take lots of good, close-up pictures so you know how everything goes back together.Throttle and choke linkage takes less than a minute. There (should be) clips that keep the linkage in place. There are replacement clips available but finding the right ones can be difficult.
At least one vacuum hose for distributor vacuum advance. Probably more for other things. Getting them back on the right places can be tricky. (Putting any of the hoses on the wrong nipples can make your engine run poorly.) I normally use masking tape and a felt-tip pen to label each hose. (You might think "I'll remember." I do sometimes ... a day or two later and I'm not sure what goes where.)
There's probably not any electrical wires. If there are, pictures and masking tape labels are just as important for the wires as for the vacuum hoses.
The fuel line and four nuts (on studs) at the base of the carburetor is all that remains before lifting the carburetor off the intake manifold. (While I normally prefer six-point sockets and box-end wrenches, an open-end wrench on at least one of the nuts will be necessary.)
