RvFNG76 wrote:
The springs i can see are almost perfectly flat on level ground there is a spring shop near me but after half the **** I've had to fix because of the PO I'm kinda leery about going the route of having them rebuilt on the other hand new springs are $350 a piece versus $300 for the spring kit.
We did a rear spring repair on a Ford Class C chassis where we added what was called a "repair leaf" to each side. It's an arched "piece-a-spring" steel. Sold by Width and Thickness. here's a pic that doesn't show if they had Center Holes (for the new Center Bolts shown in the linked picture.
On ours, we left the main leaf installed on the coach after dropping the axle. Took only the remaining leaves out, and attached the Repair Leaf on top of that partial pack and re-assembled. Night and Day difference. Eliminated Sag, Eliminated most of Sway.
Our biggest challenge was that our leaves did NOT have the Center Holes. They came from a spring shop which claimed their "Iron Worker" machine (that can punch those holes and shear the ends to length) wasn't working. We cut to length with a torch (but I think a bi-metal hacksaw blade would work. Then we went to a specialty tool shop and bought a single bit that was rated to drill spring steel. We barely made the two holes (one for each side, through the repair leaf) before that bit was reduced to junk. But I notice the picture I linked shows Center Bolt Holes.
It's recommended to use NEW U-Bolts, which we did, and they weren't cheap. Fifteen years ago, the project cost around $150. I'd do it again, but I'd try to get the center bolt holes done by somebody equipped to do it.
