Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Do not change it! An air filter on that hose will create more problems than it solves. It will also disable EPA mandated emissions controls.
The other vent on the tank is for the Evaporative emissions control. (See link.)
I wasn't planning on putting an air filter on it, more like a screen filter, but I just took a look at where it routes to, which is at the filler neck, so there is no need to install anything, since there's no way any crud could get to the vent.
There is no vent on that tank that goes to the Evap canister. My evap canister connects to the carb, and that's it. The two fittings on top are for the fuel return and the vent hose that goes to the filler. As I said in my other post, the original return nipple on the sender isn't used anymore, due to space restraints. What I think would be a good idea, though, is to fit a tee into the vent hose and run it up to the Evap canister, to complete the emissions circuit.
VintageMopar wrote:
Many cars and trucks have the fuel inlet below/at the midpoint of the tank. I know chrysler/plymouth/dodges of the 80s and 90s have a lot that do.
I think the tank is just fine as long as it doesn't leak and you have a good rubber fuel inlet hose coupler to fill tube. One of those vent nipples on the tank goes to the top of fill tube to reduce kickback when filling.
They started sometime in the 90s adding a ball valve on the inlet so if you rolled over fuel would not exit the inlet opening.
Groovy, thanks. My 1976 Jeep actually has a rollover valve. AMC started installing them in '76. You can take it apart and clean it too, very simple design that works like a carburetor float.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Important safety note: Welding steel with any kind of zinc coating is dangerous. Galvanized steel is especially dangerous but zinc phosphate is also dangerous. You don't want to breath the fumes.
Read this article for an overview.
Yeah, I'm not a big fan of cyanide gas. Given the consensus, I'm going to leave the inlet where it's at.
I started painting the tank this evening. All of the fittings are closed off with Gorilla Tape, and I'm using a wire wheel to get the surface rust off, then I'm using Krylon Matte Black and I like the results. The tank is 1/4" steel (read heavy mother), so I'm not worried about punching through anything...it's one solid SOB. Check out the initial "P" from the guy who welded the tank, it's just to the right of the inlet in the pic. My father-in-law used to put his initials on the chassis he welded at Kit's.
Speaking of welding (God those are ugly welds!), I forgot to post earlier that there is a drain bung (you were talking about that Griff), but someone welded it up completely, so no worries about that either.
What's funny is that that Monaco lists it as a 49gal tank, but when I took the measurements of the tank and did some math, my result came to 51gal. What really made me laugh was when I pulled the sender out of the tank and saw what Monaco did. They took the stock sender out of the tank that came with the chassis cab, cut the float arm and added 4" of wire to it, by braising it....total Frankenstein job. And, yes, I know there's no filter sock on the sender. The old one is nasty, so I ordered a new one.
