StingrayL82 wrote:
There is no vent on that tank that goes to the Evap canister. My evap canister connects to the carb, and that's it. The two fittings on top are for the fuel return and the vent hose that goes to the filler. As I said in my other post, the original return nipple on the sender isn't used anymore, due to space restraints. What I think would be a good idea, though, is to fit a tee into the vent hose and run it up to the Evap canister, to complete the emissions circuit.
Getting those evaporative emissions control systems to work right is a royal PITA. I applaud your effort to improve your emissions control but also recognize it may be difficult.
StingrayL82 wrote:
Yeah, I'm not a big fan of cyanide gas. Given the consensus, I'm going to leave the inlet where it's at.
Actually, it's zinc oxide fumes/particles you need to worry about.
StingrayL82 wrote:
I started painting the tank this evening. All of the fittings are closed off with Gorilla Tape, and I'm using a wire wheel to get the surface rust off, then I'm using Krylon Matte Black and I like the results. The tank is 1/4" steel (read heavy mother), so I'm not worried about punching through anything...it's one solid SOB. Check out the initial "P" from the guy who welded the tank, it's just to the right of the inlet in the pic. My father-in-law used to put his initials on the chassis he welded at Kit's.
Unfortunately, you left active rust under the Krylon ... small bits that will eventually grow, causing the paint to flake off and continuing to eat away at the tank.
The tank is probably 1/8" or at most 3/16" thick. For anything more than 1/16 inch, I use rust remover. Formerly, I used Rust-Oleum Krud Kutter The Must For Rust but local sources appeared to quit carrying it. Now I use PPG DX579, diluted to suitable concentrations.
StingrayL82 wrote:
Speaking of welding (God those are ugly welds!), I forgot to post earlier that there is a drain bung (you were talking about that Griff), but someone welded it up completely, so no worries about that either.
What's funny is that that Monaco lists it as a 49gal tank, but when I took the measurements of the tank and did some math, my result came to 51gal. What really made me laugh was when I pulled the sender out of the tank and saw what Monaco did. They took the stock sender out of the tank that came with the chassis cab, cut the float arm and added 4" of wire to it, by braising it....total Frankenstein job. And, yes, I know there's no filter sock on the sender. The old one is nasty, so I ordered a new one.
I'm amazed at some of the ugly, clueless things motorhome manufacturers did to early motorhomes. The welds on your tank are actually quite good compared to what I found on my 1969/70 Explorer. The rear frame extensions were unnecessarily heavy channel iron and the person who welded them on obviously believed "if a little filler metal is good, a lot is better." They apparently used about four times as many buzzbox electrodes as necessary.
The trailer hitch was even worse ... a beginning welder in high school would have been embarassed ... and failed the course. There was six inches difference between the attachment points on the left and right sides of the frame. Some of the welds looked like excessively heavy (3/8" bead) tack welds and other welds completely failed to engage the base metal. There was also one place where it appears that they managed to burn through 1/4" base metal and plugged the hole with filler metal.
