Forum Discussion
Griff_in_Fairba
Feb 20, 2018Explorer III
Eric Hysteric wrote:I like that spacer ... and thank you for posting the image. I now know exactly what I want, without spending a lot of time searching the Internet. (I'm thinking of sneaking a purchase past my wife, even though I'm not at the point where I need it right now.)
Against the heat problem with Edelbrock carburetors i found a spacer
I looked at the limited English language information available on PELOX RE. Also, you apparently have prior success using it. Those of us in North America probably won't run across it, due to a little thing called the Atlantic Ocean, as well as other factors.
One question that came to mind, which you don't need to answer: Is it concentrate needing to be diluted or does it come ready to use? PPG DX579 is concentrated, so a little bit goes a long way. (I buy DX579 by the gallon due to the amount I use ... a quart would last most people decades.). Prior to switching to DX579, I went through dozens(!) of bottles of ready-to-use rust remover.
Using diesel fuel as a cleaning solvent works but presents problems. It leaves an oily/waxy residue so a degreaser/wax remover is necessary before painting or powder coating. There's also significant environmental issues, especially in terms of disposal. (The diesel residue acts, to a limited degree, as a corrosion inhibitor but there are far better products for this purpose.)
Instead of diesel fuel or kerosene, I use a foaming spray cleaner for heavy preliminary cleaning involving significant grease and oil. (I use Tuff Stuff but there's other suitable products.) I rely on hot water and dish soap because it removes dirt and most oily residue.
Decades ago, cleaning products included trisodium phosphate (TSP). That was largely discontinued because TSP in watershed runoff was creating environmental problems in lakes and rivers. In the limited cases where I use TSP, I'm very careful to make sure it doesn't get into surface runoff.
Denatured alcohol rinse is useful for removing moisture and water-soluble residue.
Acetone is part of a class of solvents requiring cautious use. In addition to health and environmental issues, these solvents can degrade many types of paint and plastic.
Most brake cleaners contain either acetone or tetrachloroethylene as the primary active ingredient. I lean towards chlorinated brake cleaner, containing tetrachloroethylene, especially in paint prep. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner contains some chemicals, in addition to acetone, that can leave a residue. That residue can compromise paint application and curing.
Pure acetone is arguable suitable for paint prep but degreasers/wax removers made specifically for paint prep are much better.
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