RvFNG76 wrote:
I mean the seal that holds the glass and seals it in the frame.
That's what I was what I was referring to when I mentioned u-channel seal. All the things you'd need to refurbish a window, in addition to installation supplies, are available. Again, local auto glass shops is a good place to start.
It's been quite a few years since I've restored any RV windows.
First step is to remove the window assembly from the motorhome. Remove the interior trim ring and
gently pry the exterior part away from the body. Gently because it's possible to break the glass or bend the aluminum window frame.
During the manufacturing process, they start with a straight piece of extruded frame channel. It's bent to shape on mandrels.
It's possible to buy the frame channel but you need the mandrel tools to bend it successfully. On one job, the owner had bent the frame channel while removing the window. It was an odd shape so we couldn't find a replacement. The matching extruded frame channel was only sold in 8 foot sections and there was a hefty outsized shipping charge to Alaska. So, we cut a short section out of another window with matching frame channel and had it welding in place of the bent portion. (Total cost of the restoration was over $400, which the owner gladly paid because the RV entailed a significant degree of personal nostalgia.)
In most cases, the ends of the frame channel are left loose. (i.e., not connected) In some cases, the ends are connected via a short piece of aluminum pop-riveted in place. The rivets are usually special countersunk pop rivets, which can be difficult to find. (Aircraft repair suppliers are the best source for those rivets.)
In one case, the ends of the frame channel was welded together. In that case, we used a fine toothed, narrow bladed model-building saw to cut the frame channel open. We took our time and worked carefully. We also didn't have the frame channel re-welded because we believed welding was a case of going a bit overboard. (Using a model-building carefully left a barely perceptible gap.)
The ends of the frame channel should be at the bottom of the window. This is so water drains rather than collecting in the frame channel. If yours is located on the sides or -- especially -- the top of the window, take extra care with sealant when you reinstall the window.
Dismantling the window usually involves a coordinated two person operation.
Gently expand the frame channel until the other person can remove the glass. Whatever you do, you want to avoid distorting or bending the frame channel. (A bend invariably destroys the channel and excessive expansion can make reassembly difficult.)
If the glass sealant is completely degraded, the frame channel may 'pop open' on its own. At the other extreme, you may need to use a solvent, such as acetone or MEK, to loosen the glass sealant. (I usually apply MEK before beginning disassembly, just to make sure the sealant 'lets go.')
Once you have everything apart, it's a case of cleaning everything up and reversing the process up to this point.
The glass sealant you want is the stuff used to install auto windshields. There should be guides on the internet, for installing windshields. View/read these so you know what's involved.
BTW -- the 'wire' windshield removal tools don't work well on RV window assemblies. (I got one job when a auto glass shop tried to use that tool and effectively destroyed the RV window assembly.)
